December 2004
Has anyone had experience of these offers for a Diesel. I ask because it's 6k change time on my Mondeo TD ( 97) and for the price they charge it's not worth me getting the overalls on. £15 for Hypergrade or £20 for Semi Synt QXR ( Duckhams ?)BUT are these oils suitable for a Diesel? Read more
www.twingo-club.co.uk/
Under the section "importing your twingo to the UK"
Full Instructions for converting the speedo that can be followed by any auto electrician
If its a Twingo II R/H drive lights are available from Renault UK. Read more
Here is a list of top ten and worst ten cars for men to driver chosen by women:
cars.msn.co.uk/Carnews/Top10SexyCarsDec04/
Lexus and Skoda shouldn't really be in those positions, they need to get working on image. Read more
> the faults I'm aware of ...
Thanks - interesting to get some concrete info about faults. While none of the faults seem *too* terrible, return trips to the dealer are always tiresome. I'm in my fourth year of Yaris ownership, with zero faults so far - maybe I'll just hang on to the Yaris for a few more years.
Our elderly '94 Mondeo 2.0 petrol is overheating, but not losing water. Seems OK on several longish runs then symptoms reappear. Symptoms are after running for some time or idling for a few minutes; temp gauge creeps towards red, heater goes cold if set to hot. Stopped immediately and checked under bonnet; header tank is full almost up to cap, no signs of leak. After leaving for a few minutes then gently realising presure, water level drops back to 'max' line. Tonight I managed to get home keeping an eye on temp gauge, but motor was really cooking when I stopped and water boiling (?) in system. Header tank cap was realising pressure.
System was pressure checked OK the last time it occurred. Garage suggested may be head gasket on way out. No sign of water in oil; oil level constant.
(Heater has never been very efficient)
Could this be stuck thermostat? Any help appreciated.
Mark (Aberdeen)
Read more
Definitely a headgasket - had the same symptoms on a 92 Sierra 2.0 DOHC. Dump the car or get a cheap engine; I repaired mine twice - waste of time; the replacement engine (£165 + VAT) has worked perfectly for two years and uses no water. Replacing the headgasket would have cost £500 plus.
Cheers
Is there an equivalent of GSF but for Japanese cars? I've had the front indicator cover smashed on my Mazda 323 and I suspect I'll need a whole new indicator unit at no doubt astronomical cost.
Just out of interest, which cars are the cheapest to buy parts for?
Thanks in advance
Pete Read more
I think I'll be sticking with Nissan when I come to
change, most likely a 1.6 Primera. I don't think you can
go wrong with these, unless of course you are very unlucky.
My experiences are that you won't need a 'spare' car for
parts if you own a Nissan, even if this was practical
for me (which it isn't!).
Yes, I agree. Nissans seldom give grief if looked after. The Primeras are popular, so lots of pattern parts are good prices, e.g.:
Power rack £85
CV joint £29
Cat. £115
Upper and lower wishbones, about £25
Radiator £115
The prices for QX parts are about the same - so not too bad for a big Japanese car (not that you are ever likely to need them unless using it as a taxi or airport car - which quite a lot do).
If you want something a bit "odd" or slow-moving then the dealer will skin you, but not so badly as Honda, Toyota etc.
Hi,
Having had no luck from an earlier thread on the hot running of my brothers 1997 ZX 1.4i (60k miles)I have another concern.
The original problem was that it ran between 90 - 100 degrees all the time (nearer 100 on motorway). The owners manual says this is correct, and indeed the fan cuts in at 100 degrees. But I would have thought with a new thermostat (88 deg) that it should run cooler, especially when the ambient temp is only 3 degrees.
The reason I am concerned about the head gasket is that while changing the coolant over Xmas I noticed some brown mayo/sludge in the header tank. I am usure whether this is oil deposits or just from the previous owner doing short didtances.
Everything else seems fine, it runs smooth, pulls well, has no sign of water in oil, and water level stays constant. Cuold it be remains from an old gasket problem, and how can I clean it out, and engine flush with a hose failed to remove it.
--
Neil T
Mondeo Ghia TDCi 130 Estate, SEAT Toledo 20VT Sport, Various Montegos... Read more
Almost certainly an indication that the head gasket is in distress and allowing oil under pressure to leech into a waterway. Less likely is a crack between oil gallery and water jacket in the head itself. It wont show up with a coolant combustion leak test. First priority is to flush out the system and see if sludge returns. Best product for this is Forte Bio degreaser, used it several times on K series rover when the inevietable gaket failure fills the sump with water which turns to yogurt!.Only available to trade so try a couple of workshops locally or email me for supply.
Andrew
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Simplicate and add lightness!!
I am at my wits end here. My 95 Omega V6 estate has an odd problem in that it slowly wanders to the right when braking gently, holding the wheel still. If you do it not holding the wheel the wheel steers slightly left and the car pulls up straight. Even stranger when you brake really hard the problem disappears! Have stripped down and checked the calipers and changed pads, replaced both front wishbones 6 months ago. Checked tyre pressures etc and had tracking done in September when I replaced a track rod end. Only things left, could it be a rear brakes problem? Any ideas? Read more
Maybe an MOT test would be best to eliminate the brakes, does anyone know if these machines will test imbalance between both sides of an 'axle'?
have a T reg Polo up to now I have had it serviced in VW garages so have a full VW service history, but at a price!! is it worth keeping this up or should I get it serviced somewhere cheaper?
Angie Read more
I've a five-year-old Bora and, since I got it nearly two years ago, the basic work such as MOT tests and oil and filter changes have been entrusted to National with complete success; even more importantly, the cost is a fraction of the local VW service centre with MOTs, for instance, at half-price.
www.national.co.uk/
Original Equipment parts are readily available and, again, at greatly reduced costs from G(erman), S(wedish) and F(rench) Car Parts:
www.gsfcarparts.com/
You can order online or visit one of its outlets - a catalogue can be ordered online and you can find out for yourself just how reasonable its prices are for various marques.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
I have recently bought a 52 Laguna 1.9, It has just had it's 36,000 service. When the engine hits just over 1000rpm there is a very loud, and worrying, vibration this vibration subsides as soon as it passes this point. This vibration is at its worst in slow moving traffic when the engine is constantly at about this speed.
Is this normal or is there some underlying problem?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Read more
I've a 1.9DCI with 96k, had a similar buzzing vibration and traced to the front section of the exhaust. The front pipe has a convoluted flexible section which is covered with a supporting mesh, the joint seems to sag and cause a vibration. Not wanting to replace the front pipe just yet, I wrapped the flex joint with a stainless repair sleeve from Halfords which gentle grips the outer mesh to the convoluted section. Noise now stopped, and its been fitted for approx. 6months & 10k with no problems. Its worth checking. An easy check is to get someone to hold the engine speed at approx.1000 -1200rpm, (until noise develops) and grip/apply side pressure on the rear silencer on its flex mountings, on my car the noise would disappear, this action tensions the afore mentioned front flex joint.
My wife has a T reg Polo when there's a frost the lock freezes and can't open doors or boot is this normal for polo's? any suggestions to stop this?
terry Read more
Careful spraying too much oil into the locks. You'll end up diluting and washing out the grease that's been put there during assembly of the car.
This thread should help you. Pay particular attention to Cyd's comments.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=8483
Also read this thread:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=19068
Browse
Done, in both Oilman's post and the Sticky.