December 2004
Help.
I've just put a replacement engine in my wifes 306 1.9 diesel, I am fairly sure that I replaced all the electrics correctly.
However there is now no power to the glow plugs and the warning light doesn't come on even tho I can here the control unit clicking on. The glow plugs them selves are fine, I tested them with a direct feed.
Also the battery light comes on at the first click of the key.
What have I done
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Hi all
My sister-in-law's 1.2 8v Corsa is running cool. The fans finally came on when I revved the engine, so I suspect the thermostat. Having bought a Haynes manual it would appear I have to remove the timing belt and rear cover to remove the thermostat. The manual also mentions a special tool for re-tensioning the timing belt. Can one of these tools be easily fabricated and if not, where can I buy one from. The Vauxhall dealer is not allowed to sell tools apparently.
Any advice and tips on the procedure would be welcome. I have changed a timing chain before, but this is the first timing belt. The coolant hasn't been changed before so do I need to flush the system, or is the garden hose sufficient? The car has 80,000 miles on the clock so should I look for anything else to replace while I have all these bits off.
Thanks
Andrew
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If the car gets hot without driving it, but cools as soon as you do, then it certainly sounds like a dodgy thermostat.
You don't need the special tool to tension the timing belt. The "twist" test is adequate enough. Using the longest run of the belt between the crankshaft and camshaft, grab it in the middle and providing you can twist it 90° without too much trouble, and no further, it should be at the right tension. An overtensioned belt will humm, a slack one will rattle.
As the car has done 80,000, it's time for it's second belt change anyway. (Vauxhall specify every 40,000 or 4 yrs, whichever comes sooner) You might also want to consider replacing the waterpump while you're at it.
Flusing the system with a hosepipe should be enough to clear most of the crud out.
Hi, it's gonna be a long post, so sit back.
I've replaced my multifunction display unit on my 2000 (X) Peugeot 406 coupe (without Sat Nav). The actual lcd was faulty, so I bought one from ebay (of a V reg 406 glx estate) and installed it. Everything seemed fine- the stalk controls worked, as did the radio and tape. But when I select the (Standard boot) CD multi-changer, nothing - It wouldn't recognise it.
So I exchanged it for another one (from a standard 406 coupe 2001). Installed it, and that seemed O.K., it recognises the cd changer, until I tried operating the stalk controls. Now it doesn't recognise that.
I had to swallow almost £100, on a new one from a main Peugeot dealer.
They took my VIN number and looked it up on their computer parts system, and ordered a new unit (part no. 6155.P8).
I installed the new unit, and to my annoyance, it had the same problem as with my first replacement unit- it wouldn't recognise the cd changer.
So I went back to the dealer and told them my problem. They said it was the correct unit, and the problem of the cd changer
may be due to the BSI (the brain of the multiplex wiring system).
They said it will cost about £50 for a diagnostics check. At that point I couldn't be bothered so I left. (Got a refund on the display unit)
So now I'm back with the unit which doesn't respond to the stalk controls.
So my questions:
Anyone know why my stalk controls/cd changer isn't recognised, and
Is there a simple/cheap way to solve it?
Does anyone happen to know the difference between 6155P8 (up to
build code 09001) and 6155Q8 (from build code 09002), or 6155.N8?
Did I actually receive the correct unit, and I do have a problem with the BSI.
Has anyone had a diagnostics check done (does £50 sound about
right)?
-Would they be able to reprogram the display unit/BSI so it would recognise the stalk controls?
P.s. When I put back the original display unit, all the functions work as usual (the actual lcd is broken).
Told you it was a long post!
A really annoyed owner
P.S. Happy X-mas
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Has anyone had experience of these offers for a Diesel. I ask because it's 6k change time on my Mondeo TD ( 97) and for the price they charge it's not worth me getting the overalls on. £15 for Hypergrade or £20 for Semi Synt QXR ( Duckhams ?)BUT are these oils suitable for a Diesel? Read more
Done, in both Oilman's post and the Sticky.
www.twingo-club.co.uk/
Under the section "importing your twingo to the UK"
Full Instructions for converting the speedo that can be followed by any auto electrician
If its a Twingo II R/H drive lights are available from Renault UK. Read more
Here is a list of top ten and worst ten cars for men to driver chosen by women:
cars.msn.co.uk/Carnews/Top10SexyCarsDec04/
Lexus and Skoda shouldn't really be in those positions, they need to get working on image. Read more
> the faults I'm aware of ...
Thanks - interesting to get some concrete info about faults. While none of the faults seem *too* terrible, return trips to the dealer are always tiresome. I'm in my fourth year of Yaris ownership, with zero faults so far - maybe I'll just hang on to the Yaris for a few more years.
Our elderly '94 Mondeo 2.0 petrol is overheating, but not losing water. Seems OK on several longish runs then symptoms reappear. Symptoms are after running for some time or idling for a few minutes; temp gauge creeps towards red, heater goes cold if set to hot. Stopped immediately and checked under bonnet; header tank is full almost up to cap, no signs of leak. After leaving for a few minutes then gently realising presure, water level drops back to 'max' line. Tonight I managed to get home keeping an eye on temp gauge, but motor was really cooking when I stopped and water boiling (?) in system. Header tank cap was realising pressure.
System was pressure checked OK the last time it occurred. Garage suggested may be head gasket on way out. No sign of water in oil; oil level constant.
(Heater has never been very efficient)
Could this be stuck thermostat? Any help appreciated.
Mark (Aberdeen)
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Definitely a headgasket - had the same symptoms on a 92 Sierra 2.0 DOHC. Dump the car or get a cheap engine; I repaired mine twice - waste of time; the replacement engine (£165 + VAT) has worked perfectly for two years and uses no water. Replacing the headgasket would have cost £500 plus.
Cheers
Is there an equivalent of GSF but for Japanese cars? I've had the front indicator cover smashed on my Mazda 323 and I suspect I'll need a whole new indicator unit at no doubt astronomical cost.
Just out of interest, which cars are the cheapest to buy parts for?
Thanks in advance
Pete Read more
I think I'll be sticking with Nissan when I come to
change, most likely a 1.6 Primera. I don't think you can
go wrong with these, unless of course you are very unlucky.
My experiences are that you won't need a 'spare' car for
parts if you own a Nissan, even if this was practical
for me (which it isn't!).
Yes, I agree. Nissans seldom give grief if looked after. The Primeras are popular, so lots of pattern parts are good prices, e.g.:
Power rack £85
CV joint £29
Cat. £115
Upper and lower wishbones, about £25
Radiator £115
The prices for QX parts are about the same - so not too bad for a big Japanese car (not that you are ever likely to need them unless using it as a taxi or airport car - which quite a lot do).
If you want something a bit "odd" or slow-moving then the dealer will skin you, but not so badly as Honda, Toyota etc.
Hi,
Having had no luck from an earlier thread on the hot running of my brothers 1997 ZX 1.4i (60k miles)I have another concern.
The original problem was that it ran between 90 - 100 degrees all the time (nearer 100 on motorway). The owners manual says this is correct, and indeed the fan cuts in at 100 degrees. But I would have thought with a new thermostat (88 deg) that it should run cooler, especially when the ambient temp is only 3 degrees.
The reason I am concerned about the head gasket is that while changing the coolant over Xmas I noticed some brown mayo/sludge in the header tank. I am usure whether this is oil deposits or just from the previous owner doing short didtances.
Everything else seems fine, it runs smooth, pulls well, has no sign of water in oil, and water level stays constant. Cuold it be remains from an old gasket problem, and how can I clean it out, and engine flush with a hose failed to remove it.
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Neil T
Mondeo Ghia TDCi 130 Estate, SEAT Toledo 20VT Sport, Various Montegos... Read more
Almost certainly an indication that the head gasket is in distress and allowing oil under pressure to leech into a waterway. Less likely is a crack between oil gallery and water jacket in the head itself. It wont show up with a coolant combustion leak test. First priority is to flush out the system and see if sludge returns. Best product for this is Forte Bio degreaser, used it several times on K series rover when the inevietable gaket failure fills the sump with water which turns to yogurt!.Only available to trade so try a couple of workshops locally or email me for supply.
Andrew
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Simplicate and add lightness!!
I am at my wits end here. My 95 Omega V6 estate has an odd problem in that it slowly wanders to the right when braking gently, holding the wheel still. If you do it not holding the wheel the wheel steers slightly left and the car pulls up straight. Even stranger when you brake really hard the problem disappears! Have stripped down and checked the calipers and changed pads, replaced both front wishbones 6 months ago. Checked tyre pressures etc and had tracking done in September when I replaced a track rod end. Only things left, could it be a rear brakes problem? Any ideas? Read more
Maybe an MOT test would be best to eliminate the brakes, does anyone know if these machines will test imbalance between both sides of an 'axle'?
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there may be an immobiliser fitted to the fuel pump.
madf