April 2003

davidod

Hi
The bearings in the gearbox in my 1999 1.6 VW Golf with 30K on the clock have just gone.

It's out of warranty from the the dealer...will I have any luck with VW itself?????
I'd be grateful for any advice.

many thanks Read more

Dynamic Dave

David,

Have you not seen the replies to your same question you asked on Monday the 14th?

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=12...4

jonrola

This is a warning to anyone thinking of buying new alloys for their pride and joy. I bought a set from dealers name deleted and have had nothing but trouble with them. In fact I would go so far as to say they are extremely dangerous! All four wheels suffer from intermittent, sudden deflation with the tyre almost leaving the rim. All the wheels have been tested and none have been punctured. This sudden and complete deflation has caused severe damage to every wheel. I now have a stack of alloys in my garage which cost me £550 and which are absolutely useless. I spoke to the supplier by telephone but they didn\'t want to know and they do not reply to any of my emails.

We have a policy within the Backroom which does not permit naming and shaming or anything similar. Please take a moment to re-read \"The Small Print\" in the red menu bar to the left of here to refresh yourself.
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Dynamic Dave
Back Room Moderator

mailto:dave_moderator@honestjohn.co.uk
Read more

Martin Devon

If porosity is a problem couldn't this be overcome simply by
painting the inside? Either with ordinary ali primer or something special?
I find the exact converse in fact - genuine 10-year oldl
Volvo alloys never lose even a fraction of a pound. The
only air they lose is when I check the pressures.

My Volvo alloys lose pressure regularly. Decent tyre dealer 're-painted' same and to date no prob, but i'm wary.

Volvo circa '93 850

Regards.
howy686

Reading the chat about filters rang some bells - my Cavalier 16V (2l ecotec)had started to tap (not every time) for several 'long' seconds after cold start-up since the last oil change (same 15/50 oil which I always use). The filter was made by FRAM which I've always thought to be a well-known make.
Anyway, I've just swapped the filter to a genuine GM and, guess what, the start-up rattle has gone!
There's no visible non-return valve in either filter, and it hangs near vertical - so what has made the difference? Sure I had to top up with half litre of fresh oil but the whole sump full has only run for maybe 1000 miles.
Another strange thing - the lifters have always been a little noisy once warmed up, but I have noticed that, at tick-over, a louder tapping comes and goes at maybe half-minute intervals- definitely coming from the cam box - any ideas?

Read more

JonM

Commonly given advice on this site is 40,000 miles or 4 years for a cam-belt change. At 6,000 miles a year, 28,000 miles must mean it's been about 4 years since it was done. If this is correct and there's any doubt about whether this noise is cam-belt related I would be tempted to change it sooner rather than later, especially considering the potential costs involved if it should fail.

Rob the Bus

Not being the most technically minded chappie, I'd be exceptionally grateful (I may even buy you a virtual pint) for some advice.

My 1986 2.0i Granada auto occasionally 'hunts' at idle. It sometimes causes the engine to stall, but that's quite rare. It can also idle at quite high revs in neutral and, conversely sometimes at low revs. It's more annoying that anything. I bought one of those Gunson diagnostic thingies (told you I wasn't technically minded!) and it gave the fault code for the air flow meter. So, I replaced that (with one from a scrappy admittedly) which didn't work, so I tried again (another scrappy) and still the problem persists. Have I been unlucky in buying two knackered air flow meters? Or is something altogether more worrying the matter?

Also, whenever I acclerate quite hard, there's a worrying metallic chattering from up front. I know that the heat shield is a little loose - is it that or should I get my chequebook out?

Thanks for your time, over to you... Read more

Nortones2

PS: see www.apea.org.uk/news/item.cfm?NewsItemID=233, for some comments re engine deposits.

Question Thermostat
william s

Can anybody tell me, Is it easy to change a thermostat on a Ford Escort 1991 1.6 (Encore) Thanks Read more

Railroad

Piece of cake, three 6 mm (10mm spanner size) bolts. A thermostat for these often comes in kit form with a gasket, rubber 'O' ring seal and retaining clip. Don't forget to re-anti freeze when you've fitted it.

Hairy Hat Man

Had my car serviced 4 days ago. Today, immediately after a 10 mile run at 70mph (the first journey over 25 mph and 2 miles) the rear drum brakes seriously overheated (tons of smoke). I thought the whole car was going to go up in flames. Luckily, I had a bottle of water to hand to cool things off with, though after 1.5 litres carefully poured over the drum, it was still hot enough to turn the water into steam. I assume the handbrake was incorrectly adjusted. Both rear wheels can barely be turned now. The garage has recovered the car and will repair it at their cost (they have actually done everything they possibly could ender the circumstances including offering to pay for taxi fares to get me home and to collect the car tomorrow).

What damage would you expect under this scenario (will it definitely need new pads / seals etc) and how can I tell that they have truly repaired all the damage caused?
Read more

Hairy Hat Man

Car delivered back to my front door 18 hours after the incident. It all seems fine. The garage asure me that there was no permanent damage. I've no reason to think otherwise.

Can't fault them on their aftersales service. When the garage rang to ask me where I wanted the car delivered to, it was they who asked if I had any receipts for taxi fares!

volvoman

Have seen these mentioned and recommended on this site several times so checked the maker's website to check the cost - $140-$150 plus shipping.

Saw them today at Costco Thurrock for just £47 IIRC inc. VAT which seems very cheap indeed so if anyone wants one, best get down there .... Read more

glowplug

Personally I've always viewed physical security as different to electronic devices. The physical one should stop the drive away and the electronic the casual smash and grab. I have no problems fitting both to my cars, even a £500 banger. The way I see it is this, if I take the trouble to protect my car and leave nothing of value in there or on display then the thief will move on to the easier/richer pickings of the lazier/foolish motorist doesn't bother.

Funnily enough my sister in law had a letter from the local police that at 4.30am they noticed her stoplock was laid on the back seat. Figures though, she's the laziest person I've ever met.

Steve.

jud

Has anyone any idea why the speedo on a tempra should show full speed and at the same time clock the miles up? removing a fuse eliminates the fault, could it be a crank case sensor shorting?.
Car is a h reg petrol. Read more

Bilgewater

I normally get around 25k miles to a set of tyres, but my current Continental Premium Contacts on a 2001 1.8 Mondeo are wearing at an alarming rate. I'll be lucky if I get 12.5k.
The tracking is ok and the tyres are wearing perfectly even.
Continental tell me it is usual for new tyres to wear quickly initially but the wear rate should slow down as the tread gets less.
The tread pattern on these tyres consists of three grooves (which are 7.5mm deep on a new tyre) with diagonal grooves which are only 6mm deep.
The 1.6mm treadware indicators are in the 7.5mm grooves, so this means if you run the tyre down to the legal limit of 1.6mm there will only be 0.1mm of tread in the diagonal grooves.
As the law states you must have 1.6mm across 75% of the tread will this make them unlawful.
At this stage they would look like slicks with three grooves in them.
A bit like Formula 1 tyres.
Anyone had any dealings with these tyres.

Read more

Wales Forester

Had a New Shape Mondeo with Conti Premium Contacts fitted all round, sold the car after 6000 miles and the tyres were hardly touched front as well as rear.

PP

JT

Hi
On L Escort TD 1.8, there is a 'screeching' noise from the turbo area (drivers side) when I reach max revs to change gear.
Is this dangerous or is there nothing to worry about?
Thanks. Read more

Cyd

I would suggest the screech is most likely to be a belt slipping - alternator or PAS perhaps.

It might also be possible there is a very small air leak on the engine side of the turbo which is only aparent at full boost, so check all hoses and connections.