September 2001
has anyone got a petrol manual range rover, and finds it hard to master the gear change? I thought I had a dodgy box or clutch but my mechanic friend says it's fine, and I must be a clumsy sod with the pedals. Read more
I have a 1998 (S reg) Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI 110Bhp with 28,000 miles on the clock.
In mid-May 2001 I had the clutch & slave cylinder replaced (due to my wife's heavy foot). At the time of replacement the garage failed to reconnect the Turbo Charger in-let (?) pipe and on the way home the car was very sluggish with no acceleration and blowing black smoke. The car travelled about 30 miles to & from the garage before the problem was rectified, and since then the car has continued to be sluggish.
This was really highlighted during our summer holiday. When I was accelerating in low gears the car would initally accelerate but then dip at about 3000rpm before starting to accelerate again. It also reached a maximum speed in the lower gears about 10-20 miles per hour earlier than I expected, yet the revs would continue to increase even if the speed wouldn't.
In addition when I was on any sort of incline the car would lose power rapidly and if I dropped a gear to accelerate it had the opposite effect and just slowed the car even more.
The clutch does not feel as though it is slipping, so what could it be? Read more
Gary
If the engine revs more and the road speed does not increase the only answer is that the clutch is slipping.
Bill
I know this has been covered before but.........
Having had the misfortune in the last couple of months to do several weekend / Bank Holiday medium length journeys (~250-300 miles round trip) I had forgotten just how abysmal weekend driving standards are.
Middle Lane Appreciation Society out in force on the M1 today methinks.
No indicators brotherhood.
No mirrors sisterhood (just so I cannot be accused of being sexist)
Tailgaters appeared to be having a day off but casual trailer towers weaving all over the shop.
Brigade of not quite sure where I'm going so I'll make my mind up..........................now,............oops I meant to go over there, oh terribly sorry old chap!
All in all its more hazardous than a weekday with Mr Laguna rep late for his appointment 3 feet behind and on the mobile.
Or is it just me being picky? Read more
Mark
That is the best read I've had for a long time! Thanks for brightening up a dull week.
Ian
Some scumbag attempted to break into my 2000 Seicento yesterday afternoon, and wrecked the driver's door lock in the process. I expect I'll end up claiming on my insurance, as the door is also scratched, and the panel around the barrell is somewhat buckled, but does anyone know if the locks are available seperately, or do they only supply them in sets, and what are the implications when a factory immobilser is fitted.
As the barrell was half out, I was keen to make it a little more respectable looking, and less obvious, as the car's parked on the street. I used a bolt and two penny washers to straighten the buckled edges of the hole, allowing me to successfully refit the damaged barrell. Out of curiosity, does anyone know what a professional panel-beater does in similar situations?
Regards
jonbenj. Read more
That makes a change! When some scumbag tried to break into my Cavalier a about six years ago (removable stereo, Stoplok and nothing inside worth nicking), my local Vauxhall dealer said they'd have to replace the door skin.
My local Howard Basford repaired the damage and repainted the are so that it was indistinguishable from the rest of the door panel. Cost a lot less, to. I wonder how much profit dealers make out of costly and unnecessary insurance repairs.
Andy
The VW Polo Mk2 is a fine little motor car, except for the awful crankcase breather system. Once you get a bit of wear in the engine, it blows engine oil out of the sump and into the air filter housing, where it soaks into the air filter and ruins it. This can happen even when the bores and pistons are still perfectly serviceable.
The Bangernomics Project Polo (bangernomics.tripod.com/polo.htm) has exactly this problem and I am trying to come up with a simple fix that I can publish for the benefit of others. The options I have come up with are:
1. Fit an oil trap in line between the crankcase breather and air filter - in which case does anyone know of something suitable?
2. Block off the existing breather and fit a new one into the rocker cover (as per 1600/1800 VWs) - a bit more complicated, and will it work?
Any suggestions appreciated. Read more
As promised, I have now put the information on the Web.
bangernomics.tripod.com/oilypolo.htm
Thanks once again, especially Andrew and Rob. I took Project Polo out for a blast (!) up the motorway, and my air filter remains spotless.
My X-reg. Punto 1.2 ELX Speedgear has an economy setting, at which engine revs are limited to 4000. Over two recent 1000-mile runs under similar driving conditions - with not much time in town or on dual carriageways - 44.3 m.p.g. registered on the trip computer, for an average of 28.7 m.p.h. The ordinary setting gave 44 m.p.h. for 31.8 m.p.h. The saving was trivial compared to the loss of acceleration. Has the economy setting worked well on other cars?
Incidentally, I was surprised at the low m.p.h. figures as I nearly always drive up to speed limits when it is safe to do so. Read more
Do we have any tax experts here today?
I'm completing my Self assessment form, online, and am struggling with this scenario:
Following a company policy change, I now use my private car for business use. Under the Inland Revenue Fixed Profit Car Scheme (FRPS), I am entitled to claim 63p per mile for the first 4000 miles, then 36p per mile thereafter. My employer only pays a maximum of 45p and 25p respectively. "You should claim the difference from the Inland Revenue" we were told.
Using hypothethical numbers, I travel 4000 miles and claim 45p from my employer. (£1800). I then claim the difference of 18p per mile (63p-45p) from the inland revenue, and expect to receive £720.
The question is, am I right?
The alternative solution is that I claim the 45p from my employer, but the £720 is merely offset against income by the IR and I receive considerably less than £720.
Does anyone know which scenario is correct. Specifically, is the £720 paid as a tax free expense by the IR or is it offset against taxable income? Read more
However, don't forget to be sure that your insurance covers you for business use. This can be a substantial cost - especially if you have an accident.
Hi Group !!
Looking for some info on a DRB update for flashing PCM or BCM.
Anybody use the MDS port?
This is a passed on enquiry from a US friend , can anyone help ? Phil Parker Read more
Thanks Mark, the link would seem to delve into the same area of his enquiry ! Phil Parker
I own a 1997 Punto 60S which has done 75000 miles and has been trouble free until recently. This month it has had to have a new head gasket, water pump, thermostat and a pair of rear wishbone suspension bushes.
It has just developed a loud whineing sound when first driven from cold. The noise comes only when accelerating & stops after about five minutes. After this the car is fine.
The comments about the whistling volvo (backroom 07-09-01) sounded like a similar problem. I took the car to the local fiat garage. They checked the car out and charged me sixty quid to say they couldn't find anything wrong - and that the air idle by pass mechanism was fine. I think the noise seems to be coming from the engine??
Any ideas?? Read more
£670 for a head gasket change? Unbelievable. If this is the engine I think it is (1.1 FIRE, as first appeared in the Fiat Uno 60) it is designed to be assembled by robots. That means it has very few bolts holding it together and they are all easy to get to. My mother could change a FIRE head gasket in 30 minutes using a bicycle spanner.
It seems that an unusually high number of queries on this forum relate to Citroens and Fiats. What does this say about the reliability of (a) the cars and (b) the dealership networks?
My1949 Roadster was manufactured with only one rear brake light,no seat belts or hazard warning lights.Does anybody know the rules? Read more
Looks like you're right. MAybe that Mussie I spotted was an earlier car but carrying a later UK registration. I should have checked the grille, that distinguishes the 64 1/2 and 65 -ers.
It is very easy to "date" any Mustang. Ford USA still provides a decoder book for all the VIN numbers, and even in some cases can produce original invoices and build-sheets depending on the factory where the car was built. (computerisation was just coming in at that time) Mine I know from this is a '66 Detroit-built car, allocated to Chicago area. It's fascinating to see the range of accessories the original purchaser ordered, and even more fascinating to note the whole thing cost under $4,000 on the road. Were those the days or what? But I digress, thanks anyway for taking the trouble for such a comprehensive reply.
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Spencer
Have you a R-R with the older 'long' gear lever, or the more recent short lever?
There's quite a difference between the action of the two cars. My old R-R had the long lever, and it took a while to get used to - you can't, as others have indicated, rush the change as it's a big, heavy gearbox. Oddly too, I always thought the 1/2 and 3/4 gear planes were quite close for a long levered box.
However, if the problem is that the transmission clunks or bangs when you take up the drive, then there may well be a problem elsewhere in the transmission. There are plenty of joints and suspension arms in the underpinnings of a R-R so plenty of opportunity for wear to build up. I've driven a few horrible examples looking for a good one. Try driving along in 3rd or 4th and get on and off the throttle, which quickly shows up problems in the transmission. Certainly worth getting your mechanic friend to check it out.
Regards
john