Hello all,
Planning to tackle the cam belt etc on my wifes 2003 A4 2.5tdi V6 Quattro....... I have sucessfully done cambelts on 1996 A4 tdi, 2001 A4 tdi PD, Discovery, Rover 1.4 twin cam, 306DT, 2.5td L200... and never had any major issues....
Is there any adivce regarding the change on the 2003 2.5tdi V6 (I have never done a V engine before) I have read about needing VAG com etc.. but not too sure..
Any advice would be appriecated (screwloose.........)
I will of course be done the waterpump and bits whilst I'm there...
Edited by Webmaster on 28/02/2009 at 16:37
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It's a pig of a job - lots of dismantling and the need to set the injection pump timing using VAGCOM. This needs to be checked with the engine running and is to an extent iterative - so it's a real pain. Not impossible though if you're careful and do your homework.
There is no scope for bodging or short cuts - all idlers and of course, the over-stressed water pump must be changed. It's a very long job but you could save a lot of money if you get it right...
Failure to properly set the injection timing invariably results in the ECU controlled dynamic injection timing adjustment running out of range in one direction or another. "Mark and pray" will not do on this engine.
659.
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Thanks for the info.... that was what I was fearing.... I have never been beaten yet and always been sucessful, but I'm now living prague for work so my resources are limited.. so is my time...
Dismantling is not an issue, I know how to get the bumper off, A/C, Rad, slam plate, lights....etc... would have all that done within the hour... once all that is out of the way access is lovely (not like the old 306 DT arrr), but I am nervous about the whole injection timing an VAG com is a concern (I did not do it on the 1.9tdi PD ?)
I think I had best bite the bullet and for the first time EVER take one of my cars to a garage... sickening..... If I was back in the UK I would give her a go...
Trouble is in Prague everything is silly expensive and I have seen no Indy specialists (that I like the look of)
I will of course let you all know what the score is...
Edited by hm on 28/02/2009 at 16:44
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659FBE is spot on this is a large job and 'Mark and Pray' will not work. Do you have a manual, the locking tools ( can be made ) and a cam spocket two legged puller which you may need. And Vag-com to re-time the injector pump. Regards Peter
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peter,
I have 99.9% of the gear... inc VAGCom, but I'm not to update with it (only ever used it for error codes and boost pressure's)
I was planning to purchase any additional locking type tools if necessary (I have a number of sets already)
(ps I have never used just the paint sticks always locking tools) - I have the Elsewin software, just in the process or re-installing to take a look....
It is just the timing / setting I'm very nervous about.... never need to do this before as basically it has always been lock everything up etc, etc.. new belt.. tension procedure and bobs your uncle (L200 was a little differnet as it too had a balance belt.
It looks like unless one is very VAG savy you need to fork out for the dealer or Indy.... waying everything up I think it is something I must let someone else do...I'm not looking forwards to this.. :0(
I might try looking for a indy across the boarder in German.
{please note, the word 'dealer' starts with a 'd' and not 'st'}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 28/02/2009 at 19:17
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I have a Skoda Superb (stretched Passat in drag). I use it as a towcar and seriously considered the V6 at an early stage until I investigated the cambelt replacement procedure.
The problem with this engine is that it uses the old Bosch VE pump and the engine is timed from the pump itself, not the crankshaft. As there are 2 toothed belts with their attendant tolerances, the pump position has to be accurately set following a belt change in order to get the full range of ECU controlled dynamic injection timing.
The later PD engine is timed (as it should be) from the crank using a probe and tonewheel just in front of the flywheel. The camshaft transducer merely serves to instuct the ECU as to which cylinder requires fuel. Consequently, pegging the shafts is fine for this engine - as long as you understand how to use the vernier adjuster on the camwheel.
I bought the AWX (130PS) 4 cyl PD Superb as a consequence. Nobody wants to spend a fortune maintaining a car which has depreciated at a breathtakingly high rate.
I think you would be very wise to farm this job out - choose your operator carefully though.
659.
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Thanks team for the very prompt and great advice. Luckily I think I purchased this car for a very good price (and low mileage, she has just hit 65000miles, one owner etc.. very pleased.. had an easy life)
I think I will call the Audi dealer and get a quote.. but I'm betting it will be about £1000 :0(... then again it will not need doing for another 4 years... will let you know.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 28/02/2009 at 19:17
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Go with a proper dealer for the 2 year parts and labour warranty (assuming it's the same there).
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All update....
prices for
Timing belt kit (inc idlers etc)
Water pump
Aux belts (A/c, fan, steering etc)
fluids
Labour
Prague Audi dealer wants 45000czk or 1451.61GBP
Indy (who has a very good reputation from several sources) 25000czk or 806.45GBP
I think I will go with the Indy - I have spoke with several people who all recommend them, when talking on the phone they seemed to be vary familiar with the 2.5tdi V6 (there are loads all over prague) even mentionings about the timing and with these cars they always provide a full computer read out etc when the work is completed (plus a free coursty car..)
I'm going to take a drive by later tonight before my final decision... :0)
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