I wouldn't advise messing with brakes of all things unless you're confident you know what you're doing, but this is the basic procedure:
Jack up the front of the car and support it securely.
Take off the wheel.
Using a pair of pliers, unhook the anti rattle spring (piece of stiff bent wire that runs from top to bottom of with a loop at either end) from the caliper.
Using a pair of water pump pliers, push the inner pad towards the middle of the car (away from you) slightly, just enough to move it.
On the inside of main part of the caliper you'll see two round plastic/rubber protrusions (one at the top, one at the bottom). Prise the end caps off these. These contain the mounting bolts for the caliper.
Using an allen key (or better still a hex bit and ratchet) undo the bolts inside these protrusions. After a couple of turns, support the caliper body with your free hand and take the bolts out.
Manoeuvre the caliper up and towards the front of the car. Don't strain the hydraulic hose. The pad nearest you will probably stay on the disc, the one you moved earlier will come out with the caliper.
Lift the outer pad off the disc (or out of the caliper if it came off with it) and bin it.
Working on the caliper, leave the old inner pad attached to the piston, and using water pump pliers, push the piston back in as far as you can. These can be tight. Keep an eye on the brake fluid level in the master cylinder under the bonnet as it will go up. If it gets too high, you'll need to syphon some off.
Pull the brake pad directly out of the piston (wiggle it by hand - it just attaches with a metal clip) and bin it.
Your new pads will have one with a metal clip and one without (per side).
Put a light smear of copper grease on the backing of both pads. This only needs to be a light smear, and do not get it on the friction surface of the pads, whatever you do!
Install the pad with the metal clip into the piston, making sure the clip attaches firmly.
Install the other (plain) pad so its metal backing (with the grease) is hard against the opposite side of the caliper to the piston and other pad.
Manoeuvre the caliper back into position. Make sure you have a pad either side of the disc, and make sure the corners of the pads engage with the slots on the caliper. Jiggle rather than force anything.
When it's all in place, insert the bolts back into the back of the caliper and tighten them up (can't remember the torque settings off the top of my head). Refit the dust caps in the ends.
Press the brake pedal a few times until it goes solid to take up the slack in the caliper.
Do a visual check to make sure everything is where it should be.
Refit the anti-rattle spring (the hardest part of the whole job, usually)
Wheel back on.
Drop the car to the ground.
Check the fluid level is between MIN and MAX.
Repeat the other side.
I cannot stress this enough though, if you don't feel confident, at least get someone who knows what they're doing to supervise. Don't take chances with brakes.
Cheers
DP
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Wow.....it does seem a bit complicated doesnt it? Rem helping my ex do some once and someone said it would be easy..not sure anymore,lol. May need to get a manual to look at the pictures. dont have the haynes manual isnt there any where i can download the manual?
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It's not complicated as such, but it is so much easier if you can see pics and a step by step guide written by a proper technical author rather than some numpty on an internet forum ;-)
There are certain manuals going very cheap on Ebay at the moment. Do a search on Ford Mondeo Workshop manual. I can recommend the resulting DVD's - they are excellent.
Cheers
DP
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Thanks DP,
I would say you're a numpty. You have been great help, will go lokoing for that DVD thingy now
Thanks Again
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I meant to say you are NOT a numpty DP, just read back over what I wrote, so sorry babe
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s'OK, I wasn't arguing with you ;-)
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I know you werent, but felt bad after reading back, said sorry to ease my own guilt, silly i know, but never mind
vico
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