Folks,
It's so long since I did any bodywork touch-up, so I thought I'd ask the question.
The Vx Monterey (Isuzu Trooper) has a nicely-bubbling rust spot on the door lower edge.
Can anyone recommend a rust treatment that "works"?
Sure, I am only slowing down the progress, not eliminating the rust. I am not convinced that anything does this.
And then some decent filler; the door edge is most likely to get "ding-ed" again, so it needs to be failry tenacious.
The last car I worked on like this was my Vx Viva HC back in 1988...
Cheers
rg
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The best rust treatment I have found is made by Loctite - sorry can't remember its name.
It is a small blue bottle containing a milky fluid that actually converts the rust chemically.
I gave a rusty old shed hinge (external) the treatment about four years ago, with nothing else on top, and it still has a solid black appearance with no sign of rust returning.
DO observe the instructions re plastic containers only, and be aware that a few drops go a very long way.
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Good old Hammerite is an amazingly effective rust inhibitor, if not a rust cure. Five years ago I painted the feebly finished and already corroding iron frame of a garden bench (one of the cheapo ones from China) with Hammerite and it has yet to show a spot of rust, in spite of being out in all weathers. With that behind me, I didn't hesitate to agree with the local body shop when they suggested Hammerite for repainting the brake callipers on my Golf VR6.
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The best rust treatment I have found is made by Loctite - sorry can't remember its name.
Surprisingly its called Loctite Rust Treatment.
www.loctite.com.au/industrial/PRODUCTS/754.htm
Personally the last time I used it I had little success and the rust was back within 6 months.
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I've used this loctite stuff many times over the years on both motorcycles and cars - mostly very successfully.
I think the reaction is to produce an iron phosphate compound, which forms a protective layer, preventing the formation of the oxide (rust) in the future.
Where this has failed seems to have been when the rust was coming through from behind the area I treated. I've found is to work best when I clean up the affected area well before I apply it, i.e. back to bare / shiny metal.
Once dried and black, I overpaint with primer top coat and lacquer.
It seems very effective on rust bubbles caused by stone chips (which I know should have been treated sooner).
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Try "Jenolite" - about £2.99 from motor accessory shops. It doesn't eliminate rust but stops it and can be filled/primered/painted over in about two hours.
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Thanks,
And here's another one...
The lower door panels have a "ripple finish" effect and an obviously thicker coating (not just paint).
If I touch up with "original Hammerite" (which will give me approximatly the right ripple finish and resilience) could I then colour-match with a can of pukka colour aerosol stuff??
And apart from main Isuzu dealers, can anyone recommend a likely source of paint? Not in 5ltr cans...
This is in a silver colour, as per the underbonnet code.
(I can't beleive I'm asking this, having once rebuilt a Viva upper wing out of wire meshing and 10kgs of bodyfiller...)
rg
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Yes, you can overpaint Hammerite with car aerosol spray but only when it has completely "cured". I had a Vauxhall Nova a few years back and spent many a happy hour plastering it with Hammerite, which was probably worth more than the car in the end!
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Whenever I have overpainted Hammerite, the top coat has crazed badly, even after leaving the hammerite to bake for weeks inthe sun. I have also found it to be a poor protection against corrosion as was confirmed in a Car Mechanics Magazine test, where it came last, some expensive high-zinc paint came first.
I have used many brush-on potions, and they help, as long as the rust is not coming from behind. I have found cheap cyanocrylate superglue is the best, grind or scrape all of the loose rust away, and smear it on and rub it in with your finger, (briskly before it sticks!) some sort of exothermic reaction ocurrs, and it will get warm and give off a noxious white gas, so do it outdoors and hold your breath. The result, is a rock hard jet black sealed finish. (very good on jacking points as it protects them with a shell.), for a permanent repair, it can then be coated in JBWeld which you can get from Halfords, it is a two-part 24hour epoxy, but much better than Araldite. coat the damage in this, then run it down the next day, and prime/paint. I have always found rust spreads like mould if you just use ordinary body filler, it builds up behind until it reappears,
Good luck.
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Thanks, once again, everyone.
Just for the record, the corrosion on the '96 Monterey is far worse than my late-departed '91 Pug 405.
No, it's not in the "Night of The Metal Maggots" Citroen CX Safari league, but just strangely incongurous with the build quality of the rest of the vehicle.
rg
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Thanks, once again, everyone. Just for the record, the corrosion on the \'96 Monterey is far worse than my late-departed \'91 Pug 405.
I\'ve yet to see a Pug 405 with a rust problem - my departed 13 year old was all original, no welding needed ever.
Decent quality Zinc-Galvanised body panels last a long time!
As for your rust, a chemist once told me that there are many different \'strains\' of rust (like cold & flu viruses).
Any \'cure\' will only work against one strain, & may speed the process of other strains.
But rust requires moisture & oxygen, so sealing can prevent.. the Superglue/epoxy method sounds good!
Regards,
Al.
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>> As for your rust, a chemist once told me that there are many different \'strains\' of rust (like cold & flu viruses).
Was he smiling slightly at the time? Iron oxide is iron oxide is iron oxide...........
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>> As for your rust, a chemist once told me that there are many different \'strains\' of rust (like cold & flu viruses).
Was he smiling slightly at the time? Iron oxide is iron oxide is iron oxide...........
If he was a pharmacological chemist, he might have been sampling his stock.....
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rg, while you are pottering around with your jar of rust eater or whatever, take a few seconds to remove the plastic radiator grill and have a look at the chassis crossbar in the area of the bottom of the radiator.
Tell me what you see in terms of corrosion...
What is the rest of the chassis looking like?
Look in my profile to find my email.
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it takes months rather than weeks for normal hammerite to cure. I learnt thsi the hard way rather than reading the label which would have told me this anyway.
On rust I use hammerite red-oxide primer as this gives the anti rust bit and is overcoatable in a couple of days. I gave up with the jenolite and similar treatments after rebuilding the wheel arches every year on my old fiesta. Hammerite seemed to do the job much better although not perfectly.
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rg
The product i use and find very effective is Kurust, made by Hammerite, its available from Halfords in a touch up pen and in a tin for brush on, this also is a milky type fluid.
As for cleaning up the metal, i use a Dremel Multi with a small wire brush, back to bare shiney metal in seconds.
On the subject of touch up pens, all the Halfords pens have two methods of application on the same pen giving better results, the brush part is about 2cm long and narrow giving good results on scratches, the 2nd is a blunt hypodermic needle, this i have used with great success on small stone chips.
They also stock primers like this.
Very much recomended !
Pastyman..
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Rub the rust with a pad made of crumpled aluminium foil with a very little sunflower oil. (preferably aged sunflower oil).
If you have an electric drill, bits of beer can in various configurations can provide abrasion and aluminium.
I'd guess an aluninium roofing nail in a Dremel would make an effective micro grinding disk, but I dunno where to get them here (Taiwan).
This is very effective but I've never tried to over-paint it, so it may be no good if you care about cosmetics.
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The reason that it is impossible to effectively paint over hammer finish Hammerite (as opposed to smooth Hammerite) is that it has silicone oil in it to make the paint dry with that peculiar hammer finish.
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I use Wurth rust treatment,I buy it by the litre,under £20 if I remember,really good stuff.it goes to an almost diamond hard blue/black skin that's so hard that an angle grinder used on it the next day will skid off it for a good while unti it bites in.
Oh and it does odd things to your skin,turns it the same colour as treated steel,and it just doesn't wash off!
It does seem to be similar to a lot of products,smell ,feel......etc,suspect it's just a hell of a lot stronger,90% proof!
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It occurs to me that everyone (including myself) is talking here about surface rust treatment, but if the rust is on your door bottom its very likely its coming through from the inside.
Spray (or just dribble) oil inside your door skins. I'm unsure whether vegetable, mineral or a blend is best (I suspect the latter) but they're all pretty effective.
To spray you can thin with diesel, kerosene, white spirit or even water (well shaken).
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