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I know the posting of this problem is long since in the past, but this exactly describes a problem that I experienced on my Shogun. It was an intermittent severe loss of grunt of the engine and it tended to happen at around the same point of a repeated journey.
Eventually, my problem developed until it was happening every time I went out in the car. Engine would continue to run, but, lacked all form of power. I could creep along at a few miles per hour and if the road was flat, I could eventually build up a speed, but, always with no real power. Then suddenly, after sometimes 10's of minutes of inconvenience it would spring back to full power and remain like this for the rest of my trip.
If these are symptoms you recongise... Read on...
After I managed to get the car to a failed state on my own driveway, I was able to do some diagnostics properly.
This is what was wrong in my case and here is a simple check you can do to verify if you are having the same issue...
On this engine, to reduce the production of harmful Nitrous Oxide products there is a valve-controlled pipe that routes exhaust gasses back INTO the inlet manifold. (Yes, it connects the exhaust to the inlet!) This is ONLY suposed to happen under certain circumstances. However, on my car, the valve, which controls this 'back-venting', was sticky with tar residue which had built up over time. Under certain conditions, this sticky valve would STAY open (this was the complete loss of power scenario).
This has two undesirable effects when open at the wrong time. (1) It vents oxygen depleted gasses back into the inlet manifold. (2) It vents pressure in the inlet manifold that the TURBO tries to built up, straight out into the exhaust system. The problem can also be associated with diagnostic code P0299 - Turbo Underboost. Not because the Turbo is broken, but, because the inlet manifold effectively has a big hole in it..!
Of course conditions had to be right for the valve to become sticky, and I suspect that there was a sweet temperature spot during engine warmup that would make this happen.
Anyway.... To check.... (and fix for a fiver)...
WARNING. The following advises to BLOCK the Exhaust Gas recirculation pipe to perform a test. Please make sure you are about to BLOCK this and ONLY this pipe in your engine. If you are unsure you should not attempt it. Additionally, please do not leave the pipe in a blocked state. The proper function of the unit is to help to reduce some very nasty emmissions, so let's be responsible here.
1. take off plastic engine cover.
2. on EXHAUST side of engine, above the turbo, there is a small radiator-looking object (which is actually a heat exchanger). It has one pipe connected to the exhaust manifold and one pipe that stretches across the top of the engine to an assembly on the other side of the engine. It has two smaller water pipes connected also.
3. Where the pipe leaves the heat exchanger (on the way to the other side of the engine), there are two bolts that hold the pipe on to the exhanger.
4. Undo the two bolts slightly so that the pipe may be pulled upwards (away from the heat exchanger to make a very small gap... The pipe will be springy, but, you should be able to pull enough for a gap to be made. If not, undo the clamp mid-engine that holds the pipe steady about half way along its length.
4. Using simple aluminium FOIL, folded to be around 8 layers thick, make a small card that can be pushed through the gap made in (4) big enough to completely block the pipe.
5. re-tighten the bolts (not too tight as you may bend the flange). Just tight enough for a test run....
Now take the car for a run. If you have been having issues because of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve has been sticking, this action should stop it happening. (Obviously we have just stopped any recirculation gas flowing back to the inlet with our foil).
So, if this cures your problem, do not leave the foil in place...
a. remove foil and retighten recirculation pipe to its heat exchanger and retighten clamp.
b. follow the pipe to the other side of the engine.
c. the unit the pipe connects to, will be the recirculation valve. It is mounted to the inlet manifold and has what looks like a motor on the its back end. Remove the whole unit and clean the valve menchanism. Mine was covered n thick black tar. This can be removed and cleaned very simply with TURBO cleaner.
Hopefully, this information would be of use to some people out there who may have had or may yet have the problem I had...
Edited by Keith Baugh on 12/10/2016 at 15:22
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