Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

I am looking for a used SUV automatic petrol preferably. Looking for a 3 year old car and would like to keep for at least 7 years. My question is what cars and auto transmission types are more reliable in the long run? Do CVTs do better than the DSGs? Or the conventional torque converters are better suited?

CRVs and RAV4s are what I am considering at the moment. Heard Mazda patrols are not so good! Anything else out there?

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - nellyjak

Sticking with CRV'S and RAV4's would, IMO, be a very wise philosophy.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - Big John

. Heard Mazda patrols are not so good! Anything else out there?

I thought Mazda petrols were good - it's the diesel that has had issues

Also how about Suzuki Vitara 1.6 SZ-T 5dr Auto - these have a reliable tourque converter autobox and are good value.

Edited by Big John on 22/01/2020 at 19:26

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - SLO76
CRV, RAV4 and Mazda’s CX5 are all good options but if you absolutely must have a petrol then the Mazda is the best car here. I wouldn’t touch a diesel Mazda but the Skyactiv petrol is decent on fuel and should be a bit more powerful on the road than the other two, it’s nowhere near as gutsy as the diesel but it’s vastly more reliable. A petrol auto will be hard to come by but it uses a good torque converter box with no vices.

The Toyota uses a BMW diesel motor from 2016 if memory serves right and it’s known for timing chain problems especially if annual oil changes haven’t been adhered to but look after it and it should be fine. The taxi trade certainly seem to rate the Avensis with the same engines so perhaps they’ve finally sorted the issue. Avoid the 2.2 D4D though. The 2.0 petrol is bulletproof but a bit flat to drive. Again a petrol auto will be a bit thirsty but it’ll do 35mpg plus on a run with care and thanks to its CVT box it’s a bit better on juice than the CRV. The best auto would require you to stump up for the excellent Hybrid. These are well proven.

The Honda CRV is best with the excellent 1.6 DTEC diesel. The 118bhp single turbo pulls it along fine and it’ll do up to 60mpg on a run plus it’s very reliable, probably the best modern 4cyl diesel on the road as far as economy and reliability are concerned. You’ll need the twin turbo 158bhp and 4wd to get an auto diesel however but it’s much nicer to drive than the petrol auto. The 2.0 petrol is again bulletproof but it’s much thirstier and lacks the pulling power of the diesel. It’ll never let you down though and it’s by far the most practical of the three. Again it uses a conventional auto box.

If you want newer then there’s nothing to fear from the robust Suzuki Vitara. It’s a much smaller car though.

Edited by SLO76 on 22/01/2020 at 20:33

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - badbusdriver

If you can get by with something the size of the Vitara but would rather a little more space, there is also its slightly bigger sibling, the SX4 S-Cross. At the age of car you'd be looking at this would be a 1.0 turbo petrol or a 1.4 turbo petrol (i think this is 4x4 only though), both with a T/C auto.

And of a similar size to the Virara, there is the Vauxhall Mokka X. I believe these are pretty reliable and would have a 1.4 turbo petrol (138bhp) mated to a T/C auto.

The 1.4 turbo SX4 S Cross or Mokka X would be much punchier than a n/a RAV4 or CRV, probably the Mazda too.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

Interesting views so far... my annual mileage isn't much (about 7k), but recently moving out of London means i need to upgrade from the Jazz to deal with the country roads. I guess I can start looking at the diesels in that case.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - SLO76
As long as you do at least one longer run a week then a diesel is viable and with an SUV it’s really the best option. However you have to be careful with which one you buy, the Mazda 2.2 Skyactiv D is notoriously unreliable, the polar opposite of its petrol equivalent.

The Honda CRV is very robust and rarely goes wrong if looked after. I had one for 4yrs and not once did the DPF light twinkle unlike our Polo diesel which is constantly trying to regen. The Honda is really the only modern diesel I’d recommend but that’s only if you’re spending £10k upwards, closer to £15k for an auto. The petrol auto really lacks power and uses much more fuel but at only 7k p/a it’s not going to take much more filling and it’s much less complex and thus there’s just fewer things to go wrong. Try before you buy though as it is a slug with an auto. The Mazda is much nicer to drive but the Honda is more practical.

Edited by SLO76 on 22/01/2020 at 23:05

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - badbusdriver

but recently moving out of London means i need to upgrade from the Jazz to deal with the country roads.

??

An odd comment, and an odd reason to give for changing a car!. As i live in rural North East Scotland, country roads are pretty much the only kind i drive on and our Jazz (CVT) manages perfectly well!. In fact, depending on just how 'country' the roads you refer to are, driving a Jazz would be positively advantageous due to its (lack of) width!.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - daveyjp

With longevity/reliability being a factor have a look at the Subaru XV.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - madf

but recently moving out of London means i need to upgrade from the Jazz to deal with the country roads.

??

An odd comment, and an odd reason to give for changing a car!. As i live in rural North East Scotland, country roads are pretty much the only kind i drive on and our Jazz (CVT) manages perfectly well!. In fact, depending on just how 'country' the roads you refer to are, driving a Jazz would be positively advantageous due to its (lack of) width!.

I live in the country drive a Jazz and with Cross Climate tyres get on through mud better than 4x4s on normal tyres.

And carry 4 beehives full of bees at times - such is teh Jazz's carrying capaity with rear eats down..

4x4 drivers round here are largely incompetent posers who can't (or won't) reverse or park or drive on verges in case their shiny new 4x4 gets muddy...When it's icey like last week, they don't drive..

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

I am slowly getting back at my search again. Looking at 2 5-year old petrol autos, with a price quoted at around 13k (manufacturer approved) as below, whats a good starting asking price, how much below the quoted price can one go. Or do i ask for freebies such as service or something like that? I do have a 7-year old jazz to exchange.

Also, with the current situation, have the prices dipped a bit? I am somehow getting the feeling that i would have seen a bit higher prices for a similar spec a couple of months back.

RAV4:

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20200307814...1

CRV:

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20200228781...1

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - SLO76

Interesting views so far... my annual mileage isn't much (about 7k), but recently moving out of London means i need to upgrade from the Jazz to deal with the country roads. I guess I can start looking at the diesels in that case.

Do you really need to upgrade? I live in Ayrshire on the West cost of Scotland and I’ve never needed 4wd or a raised ride height, even our CRV was 2wd. Is it a case of you fancy an SUV to fit in with country living image? Best cars I’ve found in the snow have been small hatches with thin tyres and front wheel drive. A good set of winter tyres would give more grip on your Jazz than on a 4wd without.
Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

Thanks for all the comments. I guess its the longer distances with a mix of motorway and country roads, and then you feel a need for a slightly heavier car. The jazz is very good for towns, but from a long distance driving for a family i guess we are looking for something bigger.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - SLO76
A used Civic 1.8 petrol or a Mazda 3 2.0 Skyactiv would be more refined and spacious than the Jazz plus both would be nicer to drive down those twisting B roads than a top heavy SUV and they’d be better on fuel too not to mention cheaper to buy in the first place.

The only gain you’d see with a CRV or RAV4 aside from a bit more space is the ability to see over hedges which can be of great benefit on twisting country roads. Our CRV also gave our young child a much better view out from the back seat.

I’d add in the hatches to the search too but there’s no reason not to buy an SUV if you find one that suits you. However finding a good automatic with a petrol engine does limit your choices a bit so opening it up with the Civic and Mazda 3 can only help.

Edited by SLO76 on 26/01/2020 at 18:33

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

Thanks. Yes the civic defintely is on my radar too. Will also start looking at the Mazda 3 as well.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

Some change of circumstances means I am probably looking at getting a second old car (in a couple of months) rather than changing from the jazz (so we will keep the jazz for the foreseeable future).

Found a 10 yo civic petrol manual 1.8. Would something like this last for 3-4 years?

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20200204691...1

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - SLO76

Some change of circumstances means I am probably looking at getting a second old car (in a couple of months) rather than changing from the jazz (so we will keep the jazz for the foreseeable future).

Found a 10 yo civic petrol manual 1.8. Would something like this last for 3-4 years?

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20200204691...1

If it’s a good one it could last a decade or more. I sold my bro in law a 2001 Civic a few years back as a temporary measure during his divorce. He still has it and it’s surviving a daily 70 mile commute well.
Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

that's good to know SLO76!

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - Engineer Andy

Given I have owned and run a Mazda3 for 14 years since new and without any issues depsite me living 'in the sticks' about 50 miles from London, I've never had any issues. TBH, I didn't really have much problems getting about in winter even when I had my car shod on summer tyres (for 12 years), although now it is on all-season CC+s.

I would advocate to the OP that because really heavy snow is a rarity in the Sout of England, at most having a car shod on all-season tyres (preferably those more summer-biased or neutral rather than winter-biased) is more than adequate for most cars.

The best thing to do, other than the above to avoid getting stuck is to not get a car with low profile (under 50 profile) tyres, which will also help ride quality, especially over our 'lovely' potholed roads, mean the tyres, wheels and suspension is less susceptible to damage and general wear and tear (the extra air in the tyre and higher sidewall does more of the work) and thus save you £££ over the longer term.

I personally would NOT get the top-spec 'Sport' model of the Mazda 3 or CX-5 as it'll be shod on low profile tyres. The SE/SE-L (Nav) models come on smaller wheels (16-17in) and around 60 profile tyres, giving a decent ride quality, and still have a decent spec otherwise (hence why they are the most popular) and rarely find their way back to dealers compared to Sport models and Diesel-engined cars.

Whilst none of them will be quick, they are much better than the Jazz you've got and fine for most people. If you want to test drive any of them, don't be fobbed off by a main dealer into test driving a Sport version shod on the 18/19in rims and low profile tyres - the ride is firm and may well put you off anyway, never mind the other issues I mentioned (and the tyres are much more expensive). If you need to check the ride quality of the others, better to test drive a lower spec car as the only difference really is the trim/equipment, not the engine or tyres.

One thing to bear in mind is that the Mazda3 hatch has an average sized boot for its size (about 360L), so is about the same or even a bit less than some models of the Jazz (depends on which version of both you look at). The saloon/Fastback has a bigger boot at around the 410-420L mark, but the opening is small, is thus more difficult to get certain larger items in (if at all) through that opening and the high bootline makes it difficult to park at the rear (parking sensors are a must).

It is nice looking, but as they are less popular, you need to get a discount over a similar specced hatchback version to make it worthwhile (but then I'm biased as I own one).

The Civic is certainly worth a look as well (more peppy engine than the Mazda's, not as good on the handling front), especially as the boot is REALLY big on the latest and previous version of the car.

One thing to point out is that if you are going to be living in a very rural area (down a country lane/in a small village with narrow roads), the big SUVs/4x4s may not always be the best unless your home is on a hill and the road regularly gets very wet/muddy from surface run-off from fields or farm vehicle going by. Because they are relatively wide vehicles, negotiating such roads could be a pain, thus ordinary cars may be better.

I would check out what boot size and passenger space you need first, as you may want to look for some narrower cars. TBH, your Jazz may do fine (and save you a shed load of £££) if shod on decent A/S tyres - if it's getting long in the tooth, then similar sized cars as well as the ones mentioned might suit, including the Mazda CX-3 SE-L (Nav), which might do but is admitedly a bit small inside (essentially a Mazda2 interior with a Mazda3 hatch-sized boot, but not on Sport models) - its a good handler, nippy enough and comes in auto form. The same issues with the diesels and Sport models.

Have a look around on this site for possibles. www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - badbusdriver

Found a 10 yo civic petrol manual 1.8. Would something like this last for 3-4 years?

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20200204691...1

Certainly should do.

Looking at the picture of the wheel, i was very impressed at it being a Pirelli Cinturato P7 tyre, not a cheap option!. If those are on all four corners, that would say to me the previous owner was quite happy to spend big bucks keeping his/her car just so, which is obviously a good thing!.

On the other hand, those wheels are 17" and that age of Civic had a reputation for having quite a harsh ride. So i'd go and have a test drive, check how it rides, and the rest of the tyres, and the general condition (also look at the MOT history).

If you are happy with all that, go for it as i'm quite sure the car will last considerably longer than 3-4 years!.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

Thanks for the quick feedback! Will check it out.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

One quick question... irrespective of which of the 3 I go for Honda, Toyota or Mazda, and SUVs or their hatchbacks, for an 8-10 year old car would it make sense to actively avoid automatics? I have a manual license but my wife has an auto. And this would be a second car (our jazz is auto). And I would be driving this. Of course if it were to be an automatic we could both drive but that's not the most important thing.

Since it would be a fairly old car want to keep things simple and and less things to worry about and of course the prices are generally lesser.

-M

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - badbusdriver

Shouldn't be any reliability issues with a torque converter auto. CVT's are generally reliable too, but you need to ensure CVT fluid has been changed as required. Also, avoid CVT Nissan's, they don't have a great reputation.

Automated manuals are a different kettle of fish and i certainly wouldn't be keen to buy a 2nd hand one of those.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

Thanks...

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - SLO76
Depends on the car. A good Japanese torque converter box as used in most Honda and all Mazda models of the time is no less reliable than a manual if not more so and is less likely to have been abused by an over enthusiastic driver.
Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

BTW, I test drove the SX4 S-Cross - was a 1 litre engine - 19 plate pre-reg. Was ok - no more powerful than my jazz i thought.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

I am slowly getting back at my search again. Looking at 2 5-year old petrol autos, with a price quoted at around 13k (manufacturer approved) as below, whats a good starting asking price, how much below the quoted price can one go. Or do i ask for freebies such as service or something like that? I do have a 7-year old jazz to exchange.

Also, with the current situation, have the prices dipped a bit? I am somehow getting the feeling that i would have seen a bit higher prices for a similar spec a couple of months back.

RAV4:

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20200307814...1

CRV:

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20200228781...1

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - SLO76
Don’t buy based on discounts. Shop around to get a good idea of the cars value then buy based on whether it’s a good car at the right money. Some dealers price their cars up by £500-£1,000 to give it back in discounts and heavy part-ex prices but at the end of the day you’re no better off.

As for which one to buy well both are tough long-lived and safe. Try them both and buy the one you like best.
Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

Thanks again SLO.

Also anybody has particular experience comparing the service of honda as against Toyota. Personally I thought my corolla was cheaper to service as against the jazz.

M

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - SLO76

Thanks again SLO.

Also anybody has particular experience comparing the service of honda as against Toyota. Personally I thought my corolla was cheaper to service as against the jazz.

M

Much depends on the local dealer. Here in Ayr I prefer the Toyota dealer (Arnold Clark) as they tend to be cheaper both to buy from and service than the Honda dealer run by Parks Group. AC used to have Honda but they had a falling out over discounts and parted ways when Honda refused to offer bulk deals from what I hear. They believe it devalues the brand and a certain degree I agree. But their dealers don’t have the best reputation in the world where Toyota tend to keep a closer eye on theirs. Buy a new Toyota and you’ll typically be contacted by the firm to see if you’re happy. If you’re not the dealer doesn’t get their numbers bonus on the deal.
Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - Falkirk Bairn

I note Slo's points re Scottish Honda dealers

There are very few outlets & fewer actual dealers - mostly chains with Honda franchises - nearly all the owner run Honda sites in Central Scotland were culled in the last 10 years.

Honda dealers in Scotland do not advertise much on Autotrader, their prices are higher than down south for the same car. I would not call it a cartel BUT they seem to avoid competitive pricing on new & 2nd hand cars.

My experience of AC is particularly bad - cheaper service BUT used semi rather than fully synthetic & when challenged referrred to the handbook that said you can use semi synthetic if there is no fully synthetic grade available. No fully synthetic oil in Stirling?

Parks were very competitive on their servicing prices when challenged but were a bit sloppy with their handing back & extra "charges" - they want £250 to a wheels off, strip the brake system,and re-assemble - my Indie charged £60 IIRC

If the OP is buying a low mileage 5 yr old Honda CRV the chances are the brakes have never been fettled as Honda servicing is a squirt of cleaner - this leads to expensive stuck calipers, scored disks unless you do a high mileage or wear out pads quickly with hard braking.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

Hi All

Any comments on this CRV. It's a 64 plate (56k mileage), AWD, mot looks clean, and a 5-speed petrol auto. And manufacturer approved.

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/202001316788529?year-from=2014&radius=1500&price-to=12000&onesearchad=New&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&

onesearchad=Used&postcode=tn23fl&model=CR-V&year-to=2014&fuel-type=Petrol&price-from=11000&maximum-mileage=70000&make=HONDA&

advertising-location=at_cars&transmission=Automatic&sort=relevance&page=1

M

Edited by Avant on 31/05/2020 at 14:22

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - Falkirk Bairn

As I said above - I have 2012 reg EX auto - 7.5 years 100% reliable, comfy - slow -engine is asthmatic and likes a drink 30 mpg if you are lucky.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

Thanks Falkirk.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

Just to add they are offering a 3 year extended warranty for 600 pounds.

Warranty Products: £599.00

M

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - Falkirk Bairn

My car repair bills since October 2007 have been zero

2007 - Xtrail - manual - zero repairs in 5 years - none under warranty

2012 CRV, EX auto - zero repairs in 7.5 years. Beast from the East caused battery issues replaced with Honda supplied battery.£70 - the battery was OK but I did not want to be marooned somewhere awaiting the breakdown man.

2 x Airbag recalls replaced foc - zero warranty repairs in the first 3 years.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

Sorry, another question. Should i buy a car with a mileage of 55K or so, as i understand cam belts may need to be replaced around this mark? And that would be a big expense almost straight after purchase.

M

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - Brit_in_Germany

What does the MOT record look like?

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - Falkirk Bairn

CRV is Chain not a belt. If the previous owners have had the oil changed regularly the chain should be fine.

The 2.0 Accord / CRV engine has it's issues in it being 150BHP in a heavy body+4WD - not the most economical but a few ££s a month extra in petrol is a lot cheaper than engines needing repair.

In the USA the same car has a 2.4 version of the same engine producing 30 extra horses.

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad

Thanks again...

MOT passed all 4 years, with one advisory in 2018: Nearside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))

Honda/Toyota - Used SUV auto - ManYad
Just wanted to close the loop. Got a 15 plate CRV petrol auto last week directly from main Honda dealer. So far good. Thanks all for your help.