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• Citroen C5 2006 1.8 LX - Citroen C5 - any advice good / bad / run away ? 20 Feb 2011 (Forum)
  Anyway she is completely taken with a 56 plate Citroen C5 we saw at the local dealers, which is a 56, 1.8 petrol engine and seems immaculate, FSH one owner 48 K miles and is up for only 3.5 grand. Of course the running costs will be more than a diesel but the purchase price is almost half of an equivalent car with a diesel engine, plus she gets 40 p a mile for her work related usage, so it will more than cover the costs.
• Ford Transit (2001) - Transist 2.0TDDi running fault 13 Feb 2011 (Forum)
  I have a 2001 2.0TDDi 75ps transit. When i start the van from cold it starts fine, but runs on what feels like 3 and a half cylinders it diesel knocks and smokes. It does this for about 5min and then idles fine and stops smoking and sounds spot on. The van also feels under powered and a bit flat all the time, it will go along at 70-75mph ok when empty but seems to work hard to get it there and I used the van the other day to tow a classic mini on a 4 wheeled trailer and it couldnt maintain 50mph on the motorway.
• Renault Clio I Diesel - Non Starter 23 Oct 2010 (Forum)
  New Battery New Heater Plugs New Heater Plug Timing Module New Starter Motor The problem is, if the car is left to stand overnight, then in the morning it will not fire up, it will turn over ok, if you jump the car from another car without the engine running, the outcome is still the same, but if you start the other car then it fires up straight away without waiting for the heater plugs. The battery is charging at 14.3volts when the car is running, once the car has been started, even for only minutes it will then start and run all day with no problems, it just seems that it never wants to start if it is left more than 8-10 hours, diesel is getting to the pump ok, and the heater plugs work as they were tested out of the car resting on the engine.
• mondeo 56 plate 2.0 tdci - tdci cold running and knocking like big ends gone 25 Sep 2010 (Forum)
  my mondeo starts up in a morning no problem but runs a bit lumpy and has a slight misfire and sounds like a transit diesel with that knocking like the big ends are gone....once the car is warm the tickover is perfectly fine and no missing but the knocking is still there....i`ve just changed the oil and filter and put 10w-40 oil in it but it hasn`t quietened it down and it`s not affecting the performance of the car.i have replaced the thick pipe from the egr valve which had split and cleaned up the egr valve and cleaned the mass air flow sensor....when i take the vacuum pipe off the egr valve it makes no difference to the tickover is this normal?.......
• Peugeot 106 (1991 - 2002) - 96 1.1 Running Rich 6 Feb 2010 (Forum)
  I will probably have to give up this September when it is due again which is a shame as the engine is OK, it doesn't use oil and the oil stays relatively clean for 4000 between changes. It is however running rich as the sooty plugs will testify. Any ideas on dealing with this cheaply as I do not want to take it to a garage to have the ECU looked at or tested as it costs a mint and my car is worth about £200.
• Skoda Fabia 2 (2007 - ) - What would you do? 14 Dec 2009 (Forum)
  My other half has a year old Fabia HTP, it started running a bit rough just before its first service and was given a diagnostic check, which according to the dealer showed nothing wrong. After the service, the car has run rougher than before, the management light has came on several times but usually resets itself after standing overnight.
• Ford S-MAX (2006 - ) - Auto v Manual - running costs etc. 14 Nov 2009 (Forum)
  In financial terms, the Auto for the same car is £55 more per year on the vehicle tax, and taking the quoted mpg (47mpg for the manual, 38mpg Auto), if I do say 6000 miles per year, the additional cost of running an Auto over the manual is approx. £200 pa including the tax. This isn't massive, but it isn't peanuts either. What is the actual reality of these mpg's? Is it actually quite difficult to drive a manual at the quoted mpg, and with normal driving actually get better mpg than quoted with the Auto?
• Anyone ever been caught out on insurance 9 Jun 2009 (Forum)
  I was wondering if anyone has been caught out like myself two years ago :- insurance was due for renewal (one week left to run) not to impressed with the renewal figure so I phone them asking for a better price. They wouldn't do a better price so I said that I would not renew and let it run out. I then got new insurance from another provider to start when the previous insurance run out.
• Vauxhall Astra G Petrol (1998 - 2004) - 2003 1.6 Keeps cutting out. 2 Feb 2009 (Forum)
  Also the service yellow/amber symbol (car with a spanner) light keeps coming on and going off. Car seems to be running fine even if fuel economy is a little bit lower than usual. Fault is present when vehicle runs on both LPG and petrol. This is the fault: The car once started, runs like a dream either on LPG or petrol.
• Ford Mondeo III (2000 - 2007) - 2003 2.0 TDCi poor slow running 17 Jan 2009 (Forum)
  Also had air con and radiator fan on continuously. This was a faulty heater control panel. (pre climate control) I had bad slow running and have cured this by blanking off the EGR valve with a metal sheet. I now am left with the following: 1) Rev counter shows tickover at about 750rpm I think this should be higher 2) Temp gauge fluctuates between 0 and quarter.
• Mercedes Benz E-Class W124 Estates (1985 - 1996) - 89 2.3 Current leak 10 Jan 2009 (Forum)
  The alternator has recently been replaced and seems to be functioning okay. However the battery loses charge when running with the lights on; and eventually the car fails to run. (Not very convenient during these short winter days!) With the lights off the battery seems to get enough charge. Using a clamp meter I have measured the alternator output at 25 amps when the engine idles.
• Citroen Berlingo Multispace (1998 - 2010) - 08 1.6 Engine running on. 2 Nov 2008 (Forum)
  My foot is nowhere near the gas pedal, but it is without doubt still maintaining around 28/30mph, I can feel it driving & definitely not on over-run. The pedal is not sticking, because if I then dip the clutch, the revs ease down from just over 1000rpm to app 950/1000rpm. Whereas if the pedal was sticking the revs would rise. I've also noticed this in 4th gear in the same scenario.
• Peugeot 307 SW (2002 - 2008) - 2002 2.0 SW HDI 110 - loss of turbo pressure 28 Oct 2008 (Forum)
  Could this be a sensor (the MAF threads are very interesting, but I am not nearly technical enough to check readings myself), or more worrylingly a turbo failure? I consistently allow the turbo to cool after long runs. The fact that it cut in briefly surely is an indication that it is operable? I haven't had this inspected, and will see how it runs on the return journey. Thanks for any advice.
• FIAT Scudo (2007 - ) - 2001 2.0 HDI Diesel Pressure Sensor????? 25 Oct 2008 (Forum)
  Put the scanner on it and it comes up with code 190 Diesel Pressure Sensor, If i pull wires of the Rail pressure sensor it goes to limp mode and runs lovely, no diesel knok, no hesitateing level idle. Changed the Pressure sensor, cleared codes and it runs perfect for 20-30mins it will then kind of hikup, then management light comes on and it goes to limp mode and again runs lovely but in limp mode???
• Volkswagen Golf IV (1998 - 2004) - 01 2.0 Emissions light & ABS light on 3 Sep 2008 (Forum)
  The car has been driven for about 50 miles and the emissions light has come back on again! Whats happening here? It looks like someones tinkered with the engine before me, running a variable fuel manifold and theres a pipe from the small motor for cooling exhaust gases running into the air filter? Also the brakes judder when you're at high speed - it runs smoothly and good when idle when you press the brakes at high speed you feel juddering through the steering wheel.
• Scrape in Car park - hit and run ? 14 Aug 2008 (Forum)
  However after 2 hours, I get a call from the manager of the showroom mentioning that my details have been passed to accidentexchange and wasnt very forthcoming about what it was although i did get the name, insurance company details and phone number of the other party, who was not at the showrooom at the time. Looked up accidentexchange on the net and it seems to be a hit and run claims company?! Does any one know if i should contact the insurance comany covering my car first or the other driver first. Any idea about this accidentexchange from the forum members, wondering what the need is for a third party company to be involved in an insurance claim?
• Volvo S60 (2000 - 2009) - 01 2.0 TS - recent cold starting concerns 30 Jul 2008 (Forum)
  I would normally be checking things like HT leads, but it doesn't have any. Any suggestions or any common areas of weakness to check? By the way, once up and running, the car is running fine, pulling well, returning mid 30's mpg, and there are no warning lights on. The car is coming up on 132k and has a full Volvo history to 110k, and has been maintained to the schedule independently since.
• Renault Megane (1996 - 1998) - 98 1.6 RT Over-revving and misfiring 18 Jul 2008 (Forum)
  I have a Reanult Megane RT Sport 1.6, which I bought about 3 months ago. During the test drive it almost ran out of fuel, as the seller had run it so low. After running it for about 4 days or so, it started to splutter pulling away from junctions,roundabouts etc, and also when over taking (very unnerving!). It also then developed a peculiar revving pattern.
• BMW 3-Series E46 (1998 - 2005) - 99 328 Lambda sensor failure? 28 Jun 2008 (Forum)
  I have a 1999 328i. Recently the engine has not been running smoothly. Most of the obvious things have been changed including Air mass sensor, coils & spark plugs. The car now drives ok but I can sense a slight regular shudder, almost like a regular misfire....this is so slight you might miss it altogether..however, I know it is there.
• Diesel vs Petrol school runs in Midi MPV? 12 May 2008 (Forum)
  I've also heard a number of horror stories of particulate filters clogging and severe fuel dilution of oil after only 3k when a car has been subjected to such short journey abuse. Should I be concerned? Is a modern Diesel still a sensible(ish) choice for a school run car? TIA - Rufus.