Had the rear discs and pads done over a week ago on the Honda. Last couple of days noticed a rubbery/burning type smell on getting out of the car. Seems to come from rear drivers side wheel. This wheel is noticeably hotter than the other side when you touch it. Should I get things looked at again or is it likely to settle as the new brakes bed in? Don't think there's any significant binding as car will roll on a minimal slope.
All advice appreciated.
Edited by Webmaster on 22/01/2008 at 23:12
|
|
I would suggest a stuck caliper and no it will not get better before it boils the brake fluid and your pedal goes to the foor. Regards Peter
|
|
So presumably not a problem with doing the brakes and just one of those things??? Or could there be a fault with fitting?
|
That depends on what is causing the caliper to stick. Is the piston not retracting? Or is the handbrake cable not releasing properly? Why is the piston not retracting? Is the mechanism defective? Is there simply grit in the mechanism?
I had an occasion just as yours. The dealer cleaned around the piston and it was fine for another four years.
If under warranty then the dealer will simply replace caliper.
|
the tourer has its handbrake mechanism inside a small brake drum built in to the hub of the brake disc & not on the caliper,obviously with a new disc on, the handbrake drum will be slightly smaller than the old one & possibly now has less running clearence than before so may be binding slightly causing the wheel to get hot. All that being said brakes are a safety item & you shoul get it back to the garage asap for piece of mind
|
|
Stuck caliper. Freed off by garage, advised keep an eye on it over next couple of weeks - if same symptoms advised to have new caliper. Told not stiff to push back which is usual for a stuck caliper but was definitely sticking. Thanks for the advice, wheel cool after a drive today so here's hoping.
|
How hot would a wheel/disc get before the disc is damaged and needed replacing?
Any ideas?
|
Depends on the quality of the disc. If there is no cooling period, i.e., the brakes are permanently on, then a few miles should do it.
The bits that then fail first are the gaskets, seals and brake fluid. You would see smoke pouring out of the wheel arch. The disc would glow cherry-red for some time before it is permanently damaged (usually warped). Cherry red is about 600 - 650°C.
|
|
|
How hot would a wheel/disc get before the disc is damaged and needed replacing?
Hot! The disks and pads are designed to absorb heat, it's their job. Brakes can get very hot in normal usage.
I had a sticking caliper once which left the disk glowing red hot and smoking after a fair drive. Flicking a few droplets of water on the rim would see it boil instantly. Hubcap melting temperatures. This did lead to reduced braking ability presumably because the brake fluid was boiling.
The disk and pads, and everything else, survived that abuse just fine. No warping. Although it would've been advisable to change the pads especially in case the 'glue' holding the material together had been affected, they looked fine visually.
Edited by pendulum on 17/01/2008 at 20:39
|
|
|
|
|
|
Maybe someone was a bit sloppy pushing the piston back. I used to do this by hand but realised that was not good enough and now place a block of wood across the face of the piston and carefully wind it in with a G clamp.
|
|
Think the Honda needs a tool to wind the piston back on the rears.
|
Think the Honda needs a tool to wind the piston back on the rears.
>>
only the accord saloon needs the caliper piston winding back, the tourer has a different rear brake set up with conventional calipers that just need pushing back in without the need for special tools !!
|
|
Just to update this - wheel hot again (had a week or so where it was OK) - booked for new caliper on Thurs. Hoped I'd get away with it, but no.
|
I had a new hand brake cable and one new rear caliper on the Mondeo under warranty when nearly new because of binding.
Later I had a repeat and the (different) dealer rebuilt both rear calipers (also under warranty) lubricating the sliders with silicone grease, all has been fine since 100k + miles on. When I changed the rear pads myself (well out of warranty) I lubed the sliders myself.
Edited by cheddar on 06/02/2008 at 09:51
|
|
....Garage couldn't source non Honda replacement caliper (£280 for part alone). 2 options - (i) pay lots (ii) be without car for a few days whilst caliper sent away for reconditioning (much cheaper, under £100). Went for the cheaper option - do people think I've done the right thing? Should I expect a reconditioned caliper to be as good as new?
|
Should I expect a reconditioned caliper to be as good as new?
Better IMO, though why cant they do it on site?
|
|
|
|
|
lube-ing sliders is a no no , you should just clean them with meths to get them clean , lubrication will make the seals swell and cause more seizure
|
lube-ing sliders is a no no you should just clean them with meths to get them clean lubrication will make the seals swell and cause more seizure
No, you just use the right stuff. Ford sell a recon kit which includes silicone grease, it is not there for fun.
|
|
Not sure why they can't do on site? Is this normal? Told me often replacement calipers are reconditioned anyway with the old one going back in part exchange. My car doesn't seem to have any available "off the shelf" so going to have to get my own one back after reconditioning. It's certainly a very large saving over a new Honda caliper!
Edited by ajsdoc on 08/02/2008 at 11:48
|
|
|
|
|
|
