IIRC, this was discussed some time ago, but I just wonder if anyone has any recent knowledge/experience to pass on.....
The rear brake drums on SWMBO's Focus are very prone to rusting - and it doesn't look good through the sparse spokes on the alloys! For my first attempt at dealing with the problem, I tried some old motorcycle cylinder black that I found in the garage - I thought it should be OK at withstanding the heat. This looked great for about 3 months, then the rust reappeared with a vengeance!
I've now found tins of black Hammerite in the garage - these are both the traditional 'hammered' finish, and 'smooth' finish.
Could I ask Backroomers if they have any comments on Hammerite for this use and/or any comparative experience of hammered vs smooth finish? Also, has anyone got a better suggestion than Hammerite for painting brake drums?
Many thanks Waino.
|
ive used hammerite on numerous cars to paint brake components, it works fine and lasts well if a decent coat is put on, i find it best to use a rotary wire brush attachment in a drill to clear off all the old rust down to a flatish surface first, then wipe the drums over with white spirit to take off dust residue then paint. the same can be done with the calipers at the front although it's advisable to remove the pads and remove the bolts holding the caliper to the disc (but not from the car. and don't get the paint on the sliding parts of the caliper.
chris
|
|
Many thanks, Chris. Can you remember if you used the 'Hammer' or 'smooth' finish version of Hammerite?
|
it was the smooth version, it won't make a difference which you use as there both the same in terms of how long they last etc. they just leave a different finish.
chris
|
|
....... then smooth it shall be! Thanks again.
|
|
|
thomp1983
>>
I too have used the same method / Hammerite smooth on both a Yaris and my 98 Mondeo.
It was the one " tarting up" thing I had to do on both vehicles. A long lasting, low cost and low effort improvement to the overall appearance.:-))
|
Oh dear! ...... I've just tried to consult the web for the correct torque settings for replacing alloy wheels ...... and I get a variety of results. Most don't specify whether they are for alloy or steel wheels. The manual says 'take it to a dealer' - very useful!
The best concensus I can manage is 85 Newtons (Nm?) / 63lbs (ft lbs?) for alloys.
Can anyone confirm this?
Thanks Waino
PS being more specific, it s a '52 reg 1.6 Chic
Edited by Waino on 15/06/2008 at 08:43
|
|
Just do them up with the wheelbrace supplied with the car-and wasn't the paint called "Smoothrite"?
|
|
|
>>Can anyone confirm this?
It doesn't sound too far wrong to me - the *exact* torque isn't really important.
What is vital is to check them again after 30 miles or so.
|
|
|
The best concensus I can manage is 85 Newtons (Nm?)
According to www.etyres.co.uk/car-makers that's correct.
|
it's 85nm according to autodata too.
chris
|
Does it make any difference as to how the exterior looks?
Replace when worn!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
