How good are bodywork repair these days?
I heard stories (and seen) in the past of problems with paint finish, and colour matching when the replaced panel is compared to the other body panels and the origional.
Have techniques improved?
In this case a whole panel is being replaced, so just a case of respraying the panel to the correct colour (silver metallic), and a "blend" to the adjoining panels?
Is it usual to need to "blend" a replaced panel? Does this imply that the colour doesnt match perfectly? I have seen on other cars where a rough finish is left of panels that have been oversprayed. Am I right in thinking that this would be a case of poor workmanship?
Is it reasonable to expect the finish result to be as good as out of the factory?? In this case the work would be done by an approved (manuacteur) bodyshop who specialised in the make of vehicle being repaired.
|
Pete,
I don't know what the quality of professional finishing is like these days but I should think that metallic silver remains one of the most difficult finishes to match up.
It is usual for the whole panel to be sprayed, possibly with blending into part of the adjacent panels, and then the whole side lacquered. It is not until the lacquer has gone on that the matching of the colour and surface finish can be verified.
Having said that, the manufacturer's approved bodyshop *should* be able to produce a satisfactory job, or at least farm it out to someone who can.
|
|
I forgot to mention - blending into adjacent panels is done to avoid a defined edge of mis-match since it is almost impossible to get an exact match in colour, surface finish and lay/density of the metallic particles. Wher and if blending in is done depends upon the shape of the car as it is best to fade-out on a curve where the perceived colour changes anyway.
|
Pete,
No problems with a decent spray operator. I use a local guy on a cash (ie. not insurance) basis from time to time and he is excellent.
We discuss the job and where the new spray should finish for the best blend-out. Frankly it is impossible to detect his new section. You can't feel the difference, you can't see it and the masking is perfect. No overspray anywhere.
He did a black 306 for a customer the other month and it was brilliant. To match the rest of the car he compounded it all then "distressed" the new door paint to the same amount as the old panels.
Metallics are perfect too as he understands the effect Dizzy mentions of the metallic paint laying a certain way.
So all this work isn't because his new paint doesn't match the spec, more that the old panels will have aged to some degree and fresh untouched spraywork will otherwise stand out.
David W
|
So all this work isn't because his new paint doesn't match the spec, more that the old panels will have aged to some degree and fresh untouched spraywork will otherwise stand out.
Remember, the new paint will fade as well, at a different rate to the old paint, so over time, the new areas will match even better.
|
|
|
|
As you say a metallic is the worst to match. The car is otherwise just 2 years old
I had a word with the guy who is doing it a couple weeks ago and he *seemed* to know what he was talking about, prefering to replace the panel rather than risk a less the perfect finish if the panel was patched/filled.
In this case it is a new bonnet (which I assume will need spraying on both sides??), with both front wings blended in.
Untill you learn the reasons why, it just seems strange at first to mess with panels that are otherwise perfect.
|
|
|
|
Back in the 70s all this was one reason why green cars were unpopular - it was almost impossible to get a good repair match. Part of the reason is that the human eye detects shade differences better in green than any other colour. These days every maker has a metallic green and often a solid as well, so presumably techniques have improved?
|
Andrew,
I think there was a bit more than just colour matching behind the lack of interest in green cars a few decades ago.
Firstly, cars in the twenties through to the forties were typically only available in black and green. When brighter colours became available later on, green and black were seen as old-fashioned. Secondly, in and around the 70s green was believed by a significant proportion of car buyers to be an unlucky colour!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I faced this dilemma last year when my silver metallic car was showered by stones when a car coming the other way lost it big time and went off into an adjacent field. The answer to your question is yes cars can be repaired so that the repair is undetectable. It depends entirely on the skill of your chosen repairer. This was a backroom topic some time ago (a long time ago in backroom terms). Ask around for opinions of local bodyshops. I normally don't rate taking your car to a main dealer, all the best bodyshops in my area are independent.
|
"I normally don't rate taking your car to a main dealer, all the best bodyshops in my area are independent"
I agree. Over many years of motoring, and the inevitable need to visit the bodyshop, it seems to me that most (there are, of course, exceptions), bodyshops, within the main dealership, seem to be a poor relation and a neccessary evil. I found much more professionalism, enthusiasm, and expertise in the independant bodyshops.
|
I can fully understand why an independant specialist bodyshop, is likely to make a better job than a main dealer (who ususally would do less body work)
In this case, although the car would go to the dealer (using a approved bodyshop re: warranty), the work is carried out by a local bodyshop (in the same town), who specialises in BMW, Mercedes, and Audi. Hopefully, this is the best of both worlds.
I did visit another dealer (who uses a large accident repair company - that seems to do all of Direct Lines work -i.e full of corsa, fiestas etc!) who quoted a higher price that the one I intend to use. In addition, here I was seen by a "salesman", where the one I intend to use was seen by the guy who would carry out the work - and hence knew what is was talkin about!.
|
|
The scenario you describe where your car ends up at a specialist bodyshop should be fine. What I'm not keen on (from bitter experience) is a bodyshop which is part of a main dealership. There are exceptions to this of course I'm sure some dealership body shops do an excellent job. I think the independents stand or fall by the quality of their work. To a certain extent main dealerships have a certain amount of captive business. For the same reason I don't like large glitzy dealerships when it comes to servicing.
|
|
|
|
The scenario you describe where your car ends up at a specialist bodyshop should be fine. What I'm not keen on (from bitter experience) is a bodyshop which is part of a main dealership. There are exceptions to this of course I'm sure some dealership body shops do an excellent job. I think the independents stand or fall by the quality of their work. To a certain extent main dealerships have a certain amount of captive business. For the same reason I don't like large glitzy dealerships when it comes to servicing.
|
When I bought my car I knew it had had paintwork done (overspray on struts etc.) but I couldnt tell if any panels had been replaced or filled and could not see any colour difference across the car. Mine is Metalic Silver.
So although I believe *some* people are capable of doing a really good job I think anyone with a bit of knowlege could spot a car that has had bodywork repairs, and in most instances steer well clear unless the price is adjusted accordingly.
|
|
|
Right, just to update:
The car came back today.
I have had a close look and so far I cannot find a fault with the work done. Colour appears to be 100% perfect, gap around panel is small and equal.
No doubt I will have further "close looks" in different light conditions etc, but so far so good.
I will sent the details of the repaired to add to the recommended directory!
|
|
Also check that its looks okay under un-natural lighting such as under the street lights at night.
|
I heard about checking under street lights before.
Luckily there is a light just outside my drive so Ill go out later when it gets dark.
Cheers
|
Pete,
IIRC, you need to be careful the first few times you wash it... something about the paint needing time to harden.
Can somebodu confirm?
|
|
Petrol station lighting at night is good for checking paint defects
|
|
|
IIRC, you need to be careful the first few times you wash it... something about the paint needing time to harden. Can somebody confirm?
Ian,
I'm certain you are right about this but I don't know the length of time one has to be careful for. I would suggest a couple of weeks of 'special care' to be on the safe side. I would also leave at least two weeks, perhaps a month, before wax polishing.
|
Did a search on the web, and the recommendations from BASF (as a paint supplier) are:
1) Wash your vehicle regularly using only clear water for the first 30 days. After 30 days, a mild dish detergent or soap and water can be used to remove road film. Avoid harsh detergents.
Rinse with clear water. Dry with a chamois or soft cloth.
2) Avoid the use of any wax for at least three months.
3) Avoid spilling gasoline on your finish. In the event of a spill, allow the fuel to evaporate for an hour. Then wash with a mild dish detergent and water. Rinse
|
Pete H
I'm surprised BASF recommend dish detergent. Most dishwashing liqids are thickened by use of salt - not the ideal material for car washing. Far better to use a product designed for cars and not for dirty dishes, as these won't contain salt.
Regards
John S
|
I see what you mean,
didnt notice it said "dish detergent" - wish I could find the link again now - came from a US bodyshop site.
A good car wash product would be far better (perhaps wax free would be the best choice, seeing as it starts of with water only)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
