I think it sounds like the coilpack, could be the HT leads are arcing and causing misfire, especially if damp and engine is cold when stood for all day.
One other thing may be an air leak, one of the breather pipes or other attached to the inlet manifold may have a split or break letting in air to upset mixture but this would also show up when engine warm. My money would be on ignition, the engine struggling under load due to spark breaking down from dodgy coil or HT lead. May even be spark plugs if they were not changed. Get that checked out then look for any loose pipes etc. Last thing I would investigate is fuel system.
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had fuel and oil filter changed and still no good - put it on a diagnostic and it's looking like a starter body?????? Allegedly £300-£400.........anyone help is this likely???!!!!
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Roz
Starter body isn't a part; was it throttle body?
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screwloose - I am clueless at cars - the guy said it was the starter body which is (I'm told) underneath the cold start - said there could be a crack in it?
Do you think it's worthwhile getting a second opinion? most people seem to suggest that it's something to do with the coilpack - how can I verify that?
Must admit though i find the garage i use is pretty good - just don't wanna fork out a load of bread if i don't have too!!!!!!
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roz
"Starter body" - "cold-start" - "crack in it" - all utter bullshine on the face of it. There is no cold-start system.
The throttle position sensor on the side of the throttle body may have gone; that's a possible cause of jumpy cold-running - it's not available separately for most types and the usually accepted route is to replace the whole throttle body.
Dig out your log-book [or check the VIN number on the car] and see which of the letter groups HDY; HDZ or HFX appear in the middle of the VIN.
Coilpacks are a very common failure on all versions of these.
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screwloose - it has HDZ in the VIN - wheres the coilpack, is it something I can verify it's faulty without taking to a garage?
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roz
That engine code identifies it as a Bosch MA3.1 system with a single-point injection throttle body. [Three completely different systems on a 1.1 around that year.]
The coilpack is that squarish plastic block on the gearbox end of the cylinder head with four rubber leads going to it.
There may be no outward sign of any fault. Although the symptoms fit a coilpack failure - there are many other things that can fail and give the same effect too.
I'd aslo be wondering about spark plugs that had done 17,000 miles if they weren't the genuine ones.
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Screwloose, all the dash lights went on this morning and lost all power but the engine was still running. Managed to limp to the pavement even with my foot down in first it was painfully slow to get there. Thought it was the fan belt but that was fine - couldn't see anything else wrong???
Any ideas - alternator perhaps?
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roz
All[?] the dash lights came on? Did they stay on? Once you reached safety, would it still rev up?
This could - just - still be coilpack; but it's become a bit extreme all of a sudden.
Is it still there?
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screwloose. Car was fine after I recovered from the exitement!
Spoke to the garage and bottomed out the part - reckon I need a throttle body. New it is about £400 supplied and fitted. Got second hand quotes from £60 to £80, with only about an hours labour.
What you reckon???
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roz
Still sounds like a wild stab to me. The throttle body contains; the throttle position sensor; the single injector; the intake air temp sensor; the fuel pressure regulator and the closed throttle switch.
Which of those has the garage diagnosed as definitely faulty? All of them??? What fault-codes were stored this time?
I'm interested that it recovered from a near-complete loss-of-power. How long did it take and did it drive normally afterwards?
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screwloose
the garage diagnosed a fault as the starter body, but this came from a young lad on a saturday afternoon. Today I spoke to the guy who worked on the car (always been ok before when he's done the work) He told me it's the Throttle body I needed???
It took the time for me to lift the bonnet and ensure the fan belt was still and shut it again, so amybe 5/6 minutes max......drove fine after it and finished my journey (say about 10 minutes at about 65/70mph)
Do you think it's worth another diagnostic and another dealer to verify the condition?
Would appreciate your help mate
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roz
Definitely yes. I haven't yet seen mention of any attempt to plug in a scanner and read the codes?
Your problem this morning smacks of throttle-body icing; particularly given the time of day and the likely temperature/humidity.
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a few people have said that - clueless on cars though! - how do I find it, what do i do????
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