I have a problem with my 1996 Seat Toledo. The ventilation switch (the one that controls where the air goes)is jammed. There is a little play, and I can select windscrren, feet or a mixture of both. This is fine in the winter. However the switch will not turn to allow me to select the dashboard ventilation.
This may be a dashboard off job to fix, and if it is I cannot be bothered.
Any pearls of wisdom anyone?
Joe
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Can't help with a fix, but my 96 Toledo had exactly the same problem, so it may be a common enough issue that Seat mechanics are familiar with it.
(I just put up with it until I sold the car.)
Andy
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Have you tried pulling the switch off and seeing if anything is jamming it?
Perhaps a bit of EasyGrease (a superb grease in aerosol form that doesn't mess your hands or clothing up and great for door locks etc) might free it up?
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It might even be that the switch has been taken off previously and not replaced in the correct position.
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I had a 97 Toledo which I bought with broken heater controls.
(was it yours? ;-))
It was an absolute unholy git of a job to remove and replace, but I did it meself with a replacement from a scrappers.
The main reason for it breaking in the first place is that the cogs and cable rod attachment points at the back of the unit are made of plastic.
As the car gets older, the vent mechanism rods seemingly get harder to operate. One of the three heater cable rods hidden in the dash was (and still is) very stiff.
This plastic can't take the turning forces that the rods place on them if the dials/cogs are turned and eventually the cog teeth shatter - especially if cold.
I just have to take care when adjusting the heater vent dial to prevent it happening again.
As to whether it's been changed for the current model Toledo, I just don't rightly know..
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Forgot to add:
In 2001 I was quoted £90+VAT supply only and then 2 hours fitting on top from a dealership. Luckily I found a replacement at the scrappers for £40 which I removed myself - and so found out how to remove it and put it back in.
No, you do not need to take the dash out, but it will be necessary to take the radio and associated cradle out, to give you some working room.
It is a very, very fiddly job. The trouble with it is that this is all going to be done with your hands through the heater dash slot, mostly not being able to see what you're doing.
If all goes right, I'd estimate two hours. Longer if not.
After removing the radio, you prise off the trim which has the 3 heater control dial cut-outs. Carefully prise this off with a screwdriver from the lip at the bottom (near the window switches).
The heater control assembly is about the same dimensions as the radio.
As far as I remember, the only fixings are that of 4 screws at each face corner to hold it to the dash. The problem is that the assembly is mounted to the *inside* face of the dash.
This means that a goodly amount of wiggling about is required to get the assembly through the slot in the dash, hampered by the electrical connector and heater control rods being still connected and having less play in them than you need to completely remove the assembly from the dash.
Before you remove the electrical connector and the sleeve clips to remove the control rods, make sure you know how and what goes where.
Most importantly make a note of how much sleeving is visible between the end of the sleeves and the sleeve clips securing it to the plastic heater assembly (metal clip). You need this info for when you connect the rods back up.
This last one affects the travel of the rod. Too little, and you won't be able to turn the dial. Too much and you won't fully operate the heater vents.
Remove the sleeve clips (making sure you don't drop the metal clips inside the dash or you'll be sorry) - I don't recall the clips being screwed in place, but I could be wrong - release the rod ends and then release the electrical connector from the RHS rear.
Then, withdraw the assembly from the slot.
There is usually no way to repair the heater controls. Smashed plastic parts or missing plastic cog teeth are usual.
Obviously you aren't able to order individual replacement parts from the dealership, but anyway it appears as though the assembly's not designed to be taken apart.
Once out, connect up the replacement in the reverse order you took the last one apart (quoting from most of the Haynes manual procedures, eh).
This is where most of the fiddling came in for me, as I hadn't any idea of how the rods were pulled in relation to the cogs or how much sleeve had to be left between the rod and the clip.
(And please don't ask me, I don't remember)
Oh yeah, the clips to secure the rod's outer sheath to the plastic are very tight and *very* fiddly, especially when you can't see what you're doing.
And I'm not going to do it again (for various reasons)
Hope this helps
Felchman
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As I have owned many Seat toledo's I know what a pain the ventellation problem can be to fix, having done it twice, once to a 1993 and then to a 1994 model.
Referring to you're comment on whether the problem has been fixed for the new mosel, I can confirm it has, as I also own one of these. Not only do the base models use the mark IV Golf rotary controls, but other models are completely push button electronic out of the Audi A3.
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I had the same problem old my old 1990 Passat which has a very similar heater unit (same as golf etc....) . The plastic control wheels were damaged and VW wanted £90+vat for the part. Instead I simply disconnected the flap (removed cable/clip at heater unit) that diverts air to the vents and secured it in a position that gave both air vents /windscreen/ interior air flow. The vents always passed the most air, if you wanted defrost/demist in the winter just shut the vents. A bodge but it did the job.
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