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1997 VW Golf keeps breaking down - Help! - gavvers
My wife has a 1997 (Mark 3) VW Golf and the follwing events occur almost on a daily basis -
(1) Cuts out whilst driving at normal speeds. the car then fails to start, although the engine turns. After about 3 minutes, the car fires up normally.
(2) Everytime she fills the car up with petrol, she gets back into the car and again, it won't start for about 5 minutes.

The car has been to three local mechanics but they are all scratching their heads. The RAC man couldn't figure it out either. Does anyone have any ideas or have seen this before?

Thanks, Gavvers
1997 VW Golf keeps breaking down - Help! - David G.I.Davies
Try renewing the main engine management relay located in fuse box area.You'll have to check your manual to identify its precise location.
1997 VW Golf keeps breaking down - Help! - Aprilia
Sounds like fuel pump relay - but would have expected mechanics to have gone for this first.
1997 VW Golf keeps breaking down - Help! - Mapmaker
(1) - just possibly carb icing? Is this shortly after starting from cold?
1997 VW Golf keeps breaking down - Help! - Big Cat
It won't be carb icing - a car of this age won't have a carb. From my experience of VW's cutting out, I would go straight to the Hall Sender if one is fitted.
1997 VW Golf keeps breaking down - Help! - Dynamic Dave
It won\'t be carb icing - a car of this age won\'t have a carb.


AFAIA, an injection system can also suffer a similiar fate.
1997 VW Golf keeps breaking down - Help! - DL
Are you sure Dave? A modern injection system doesn't have a venturi - I take it this is the area of high speed air that gives rise to carb icing?
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1997 VW Golf keeps breaking down - Help! - Dynamic Dave
Are you sure Dave?


Couldn't be 100% sure, but I'm sure it's been mentioned here once or twice before.
1997 VW Golf keeps breaking down - Help! - Adam Going (Tune-Up)
Icing can be problem on single-point injection systems, hence the use (by VW and others) of warm air systems and "hedgehog" manifold heaters. But, if yours is multi-point............

You really need to use the five minutes in which it is dead to determine whether you have any HT ignition activity, and any fuel supply. If there is no spark from the coil, commonest problems on Golfs of this age are the coil/apmlifier assembly (for which there is a modified part, separating the two components slightly, although still "in unit", to allow better cooling)and the hall switch inside the distributor. If there is no primary ignition signal there will be no fuel pump activity either.

If you have sparks but no fuel delivery, the pump relay or fuse is certainly a possibility, as is a faulty pump, or a loom connection at some point. Had a car recently (actually a Rover, but the principal applies) where the relay was not operating due to a fault in the ECU, which should earth the relay latching circuit when it sees an ignition signal, but it wasn't !

As I said earlier, you desparately need someone to test things out in that 5 minute window !

Regards, Adam
Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble.
1997 VW Golf keeps breaking down - Help! - squack
try undoing the petrol cap next time ,it might be causing a vacuum ,if it works get another cap
1997 VW Golf keeps breaking down - Help! - Civic8
injections have a carbon canistor which draws in fuel vapour from fuel tank.their are as far as I know two types one that allows air in from tank cap/not out.the other a valve fitted on tank I think on top of tank.idea is to prevent fuel vapours from escaping the fuel system.when ecu tells the valve on canister ie correct temp.fuel vapours are then released into cylinders to burn off so preventing any release to air.on an injection you will always find a slight vacuum when releasing petrol cap.
1997 VW Golf keeps breaking down - Help! - Roberson
Hi,

I currently have a similar problem on my 1993 Polo, except your lucky in the sense that it starts in 5 minutes instead of the 20 mine can take. However, it does not stall much these days, which it used to prior to me changing the distributor cap and rotor arm. I have a feeling that Big Cat may be right, as the Hall sender was oily in mine which used to cause terrible running problems like jerking (rev counter jumping all over) and indeed stalling (where the rev counter would fall to 0, when it was still in gear rolling along at 30mph.) Try here first, looking to make sure the connection is clean, dry and secure. Failing that, Adam Going (tune up) may be right, try reading the voltages from the coil during the problematic starting period. On my Polo these were a little on the low side, so I changed it for a second hand one. This cured the problem for a little while but now the problem is back. What if you stop somewhere for 5 minutes, (say, the newsagent) will it restart? Moreover, does it do this when the engine is warm or cold, as mine always runs perfectly when cold, but once warm, is a pain to re-start?

Hope this is of some help