My 30' x 12' brick built with pitched, tiled roof cost me £30K five years ago.
They did have to go down 2.8 (9') metres for footings because of the proximity of neighbours pine trees.
I susbsequently discovered you don't have to have the approval of the council's building inspector, you can get private ones - read sensible!
Next time I'd get a big garden shed and car-port, concrete sectional jobby or similar.
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>>Next time I'd get a big garden shed and car-port, concrete sectional jobby or similar.
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Just add a few more points if you go the self assembly route.
Marley said IIRC a 4-6 inch raft of concrete.
Inspector said NO! A 12 inch plus depth was needed under the walls so back to dig, dig.
The only help I needed was to lift the triangular end units for the roof.
Obviously another pair of hands helps. The wall panels were about 18 inches wide and I being "lightweight" in those days could just manage to handle them.
I had an asbestos corrogated roof so I have no idea what is involved in detail with tiling.
I went for a "pretty" job as we had a shared drive and it was fully on view and close to the kitchen window. i.e. The base was level with the lawn rather than a raft above ground.
Just price the costs of skips if you have to remove subsoil from the site and then how much concrete costs.
Good luck.
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just bought a heap of a bungalow - whatever your budget just double it -- tradesman work on double the pay of anyone on PAYE and cash - don't think you will get anything cheaper for cash either. - work on a fixed price - don't pay full amount until job is finished - try and get recommendations from friends and relatives - to be honest it's a nightmare
If you get a decent builder (hopefully as recommended by a friend) it can be a doddle, get a wrong un and yep its nightmare time.
Fixed price, thats the way to go, BUT, make sure there isnt an 'extras' clause somewhere or if there is (as there probably will be) it is a reasonable one, ie if you change your mind about say the type of tiles on the roof it will cost you more, fair enough, but not if the builder finds he needs to dig an extra metre for footings thats his problem , see what I mean?
Although if you get a good one, and you will know if you do, dont go haggling over the last tuppence on the bill.
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Think of a size and double it! My garage could take 4 small cars or 3 larger, and currently can only get 1 in. Rubbish expands to fit the available space!
I suspect a pit is no longer an H&S acceptable option, but mine was an invaluable addition that has paid for itself many times over. But make sure that it is properly waterproofed! or make sure that the floor slopes into a suitable sump that will take a pump. Built in ducts to the pit are usefull for waste , cables and conduit.
A pitched roof is great for additional storage for the long awkward things, but will cost, but also outlast a felted flat roof.
You obviously do not have building trade connections. Otherwise I would say get it built on a time and materials basis. On a fixed price, all builders will find a way to cut corners that may not be immediately evident to you, if they run into unexpected expense. Dont forget to factor in the cost of electrics (Part P!) , and water and waste are useful additions if you are using it for working in.
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Just over 6 years ago, I had a garage built approximately 30ft long, by 13 feet wide. Brick build (specially ordered to match the house), insulated cavity wall, double glazed UPVC windows (1 set), double glazed UPVC door, tiled roof, inner ceiling with 6 mm marine ply and insulated. UPVC facias soffits and guttering....4 or 5ft foundations 6 inch reinforced concrete base and full damp course. Door and electrics from existing integral garage moved to new one. The electrics custom done on a separate supply and breaker box from the house using (100 amp amourshield cable 15 metres underground) with RCB breaker box in garage, 6 double sockets and 3 way lighting.
Garage £14,500
Electrics £700
Architect to produce plans for Garage and apply for planning £300
I had to design plan for the the electrics, finalise the some fine detail on the plans and manage the materials. The most important thing to keep the price down is:
1. Ensure you know exactly what you want and don't change the specification after work starts. Ensure the builder is comfortable with the spec before work starts. If not understand and agree any modifications, because if the builder has a good idea, you would be silly not to consider it (e.g. I wanted plasterboard for the inner ceiling, builder suggested marine ply would be better and cost the same....he was right)
2. Estimate materials accurately and with the builder, ensure you buy and supply all the materials (use the builders contacts where it is too your advantage), make sure they are of decent quality, arrive on time and when needed. Give the builder a decent site for him and his people to work, access to a toilet, and fresh water, with no hassles.
3. Design should avoid anything custom made or made on siteand difficult design aspects it's much more expensive, windows sizes should be what you can get at Wikes, roof trusses etc.. can be bought online pre made.
4. Get references and see the builders work
5. Pay in stages and promptly, ensure final amount is substantial, this won't be a problem if builder trusts you and you keep the relationship professional and don't interfere with work on site. e.g. I paid for materials and 2 instalments as work proceeded of about 5 in total, final payment was about £7,000
End result everyone is happy, you get a good job and the builder is more than happy to work for you again. The work actually completed faster than estimated and exactly on budget. The only thing I now wish I had had installed,is a pit for working on the car!!!
Edited by davecuk on 25/09/2009 at 22:10
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morning Dave,
Did that cost include the materials? If so you have won won won.
Martin D.
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>>if you change your mind about say the type of tiles on the roofit will cost you more fair enough, but not if the builder finds he needs to dig an extra metre for footings thats his problem.
I have never heard such a load of crap in my life. Clearly YOU shouldn't be advising ANYONE.
MD.
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Maybe the footings comment was a bad example, I blame Teltleys, two years ago we built a double garage that started life as having a roof space above for storage only and ended up as living accomodation with Velux windows and a bathroom, a change that cost the customer, obviously because of the work on the new room but less obvious the extra cost of fireproofing to the ceiling of the garage itself. Maybe I should have used that example.
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.......... but less obvious the extra cost of fireproofing to the ceiling of the garage itself.
As far as I know the only fireproofing of the ceiling of our integral garage is two layers of plasterboard instead of the usual one layer.
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Martin,
Yes the cost included the materials, remember it was 6 years ago, so I would expect the total price to rise by about 18% if the same work was being done now. Materials also are not that expensive really, you would be suprised. The builder suggested that I didn't need the "expensive" custom made bricks all round, that exactly matched the house ones (I had a batch run by Ibstock). He said I could use concrete block on most of the wall along one side where it was 2 feet away from a fence (and row of conifers) and no one would notice....I worked out it would save me £300 at best and I would have known so didn't. Good job really, cos the conifers were cut down a few years ago and the side of the garage looks great!
The trick to having a good price is in the planning...the builder is going to be good at managing work on site, but they are not architects, and generally don't want the hassle of managing everything, making changes, agreeing them with a suspicious householder on a budget. Minor things you have to work out as you do them are a part of life and drawings cannot cater for everything (always be a few little things), but as long as you have a sensible builder and everyone is flexible...no problem.
Builders absolutely love coming in, and doing the work to an agreed specification and set of plans, with all the material arriving on time and of good quality. Getting on with the job without constant changes or hassle, especially the "can you just do this while you are here". My builder even commented how it was a refreshing change to get a job where nothing changed and both his price to me was going to be as agreed and his own profit (and that of his people) was also going to be as expected....made life easier.
It was the same with the conversion of the existing integral garage and a door into the house (after the new one was build. it cost around 8.5K (these are expensive), because it's actually a lot more work than you think. This time I drew the plans (these were for building regs and inspections), included, heat and power, plus the concept of a single services wall., did the same as with the Garage, again work went well.
At the same time as I had the work done, there were others getting Garages built for more than I paid and they were considerably smaller and only single skinned poorly made affairs. In each case they had simply gone to someone and said I want a Garage this big.....
Anyone can do this who has even a little DIY knowledge, it's not that hard, just takes some time working out what's needed and being clear in your mind what you want. This gives any builder confidence that they are dealing with someone who is going to be easy to work for. The majority of them do want to do a good job and make a profit, preferring to work with people who are going to make it possible for that to happen.
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Endorse everything davecuk says. I used to work in construction.
The best projects were those planned in advance and not changed.
The very worst were those that kept changing. they were a nightmare to keep track of.#
Time spent in preparation is never wasted.
On pits: I fully recommend one..Ensure they are not too wide - or smaller cars will not get two wheels on either side: and ensure they line up with the middle of the garage door. (Ours is a little too wide: a 106 just gets over but it's difficult AND it's slightly offset. Not hugely difficult but not as easy as it should be.) Ours has a tiled rood with an attic: and water and electricity. It makes storage and use much easier.
# lots of hassle all round and lots of extra costs...
Edited by madf on 26/09/2009 at 15:01
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madf makes a good point about width - but also make sure that you are far away enough from the door to make sure that you can roll the car fully forward/back. I made mine so that I can fit standard 5' scafold planks (from my tower) to cover when not in use. They drop into a 8cm deep, 9" wide 'rebate' so that the floor is flush. Make the pit longer than you think, steps make life easier, but I use an Al ladder. Google for 'garage pit liner' for further ideas.
Think about a possible slot for a cross beam (to take an RSJ) for jacking from as trolley jack + depth of a surface beam is greater than you think.
Ideally lighting should be flameproof with thought about shadows created. Incandescent inspection lamps should not be used to prevent possible explosion risk if dropped!
And dont forget about fume risks - CO is heavier than air!
You may like to think about whether the pit is at the front or back of garage depending on how may wrecks you are going to keep.
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I've just had a 13 x 30 foot garage built, double skinned (brick and block), tiled roof and insulated walls. It needs a pair of double doors, plastered ceiling and electrics to finish. £10K so far. The builders on day rate (I spec things as we go as I've got to look at the garage for a long time afer he's finished), I order and move materials (open an account with a couple of builder merchants and compare prices) around the site
I bought new 5 UPVC windows via ebay (wrongly measured) for a quarter of the price.
I recommend you have a traditional type roof rather than a trussed roof as you can use the loft for storage (you need to tell your architect this as you have to be careful of how wide you go and spec up rafter timbers to C16 grade). I've also had externally opening french doors on the side as they don't impede space inside.
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This heap of a bungalow I bought has the widest garage in the row of bungalows - wonderful to have space again and it has an inspection pit - it is dry and covering timbers must be 6" thick - it's storing old copper pipe at moment ready for tatters - so haven't had chance to get down it.
Can't beat a good garage
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at moment ready for tatters - so haven't had chance to get down it.Can't beat a good garage
Or two and a nice big shed with dexion on 3 sides so the garages don't get full of tut.
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Nothing beats a garage 14 metres wide x 9 metres deep. with a pit.
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Nothing beats a garage 14 metres wide x 9 metres deep. with a pit.
I place a lot of importance on the width of the door, or doors. How wide is/are yours?
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2.25metres between wooden uprights.
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Nothing beats a garage 14 metres wide x 9 metres deep. with a pit.
Blimey, what do you keep in there?
I could fill that easily, a couple of evenings on ebay, no problem...............
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>>Nothing beats a garage 14 metres wide x 9 metres deep. with a pit. >>
That's more than the footprint of my three-bedroomed Victorian semi.......
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In our garage is:
deep freeze
three cars (Mine, SWMBO's, youngest son's)
A complete set of gardening tools
2 lawnmowers
trestle and planks for decorating
4 ladders, workbench
pit
recycling bin
Vegetables
all my winter running gear
Car and decorating equipment.........
and 15 illegal immigrants.
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>>>and 15 illegal immigrants<<<<
just make sure that you have copies of their passports!
;)
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I hasten to add we purchased our house in 1982 complete with rising damp and plaster falling off in the middle of a recession when no-one wanted to buy it....
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Madf
That was best time to buy - bet it's better now than then - I bought mine in 79 when petrol went up and no one wanted to live in country - best investment I ever made. sold for megga % increase
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