The car: 1991 1 litre VW Polo. First of the MK3 model with the single point monotronic fuel injected engine.
The problem: The car always starts first turn but normally stalls at some point when the engine is cold, normally when I get to the end of the road. The car is fine once it's warmed up a bit. The car also feels a bit underpowered when cold and feels like its misfiring slightly.
Remedy?: I thought it was a fuel pressure problem and bought a 2nd hand fuel injector of a low mileage car which did help bit but hasn't cured it. I've also replaced the temperature sensor, spark plugs and HT leads. I've also checked and cleaned all of the electrical connections and they seemed fine.
One garage mentioned it could be the distributor as this adjusts the timing when the engine is cold. Thing is I don't want to put it in the garage and waste money replacing something that doesn't need replacing. One garage did a disgnostic check and there were no fault codes found.
Any advice would be welcome as I know it's a boring car(!!) but I would appreciate a few tips before I bit the bullet and let VAG get their hands on my money.
Cheers, Andy.
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have a look at my earler thread on polo probs
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Had this problem recently. Sticking valve. Usual causes, Cheap petrol,short journeys,extended oil change interval. Cured with Texaco crankcase cleaner & Gas treatment, oil and filter change and the obligatory Italian Tune-Up.
Also recently had a non-start situation with an N reg Polo. Cause was that the Marelli (!) distributor had worn out its bearings filling the distributor cap with metal fines. A replacement from VW was a Bosch unit, and get this, ON THE SHELF from the local dealer! Aparrently a common failing.
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Andrew Moorey (Tune-Up Ltd.) wrote:
>
> Had this problem recently. Sticking valve. Usual causes,
> Cheap petrol,short journeys,extended oil change interval.
> Cured with Texaco crankcase cleaner & Gas treatment, oil and
> filter change and the obligatory Italian Tune-Up.
My Rover has phases of starting on less than it's full compliment of cylinders! It used to go away after a bit of throttle blipping. Not the HT circuit. I thought sticking valves cause a backfire???
It mostly does 1.5 miles twice a day. Oil + filter is changed every 6 months, it gets *plenty* of revs (on the rare occasions it's actually warm).
What is texaco crank case cleaner?
(This is the same rover that magically splits it second spark plug regularly - BTW the NGK replacement recomended by Mr. Lacey is still in one peice ATM - However I do *not* like the 'V' grooved electrode idea.)
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Andrew wrote > and the obligatory Italian Tune-Up.
How right he is when saying this
If some cars were once in a while 'opened up' they would be far better for it
You can instantly tell a car that is pussyed around town and never driven properly, they feel sluggish and breathless
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David Lacey wrote:
>
> You can instantly tell a car that is pussyed around town and
> never driven properly, they feel sluggish and breathless
Maybe that's the problem with my Rover. At about 6.5k revs it completely runs out of grunt...
...it think it's natures way of telling my to change up to second before I get to the end of my Cul-de-sac. ;-)
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Dave wrote:
>
> Maybe that's the problem with my Rover. At about 6.5k revs it
> completely runs out of grunt...
>
> ...it think it's natures way of telling my to change up to
> second before I get to the end of my Cul-de-sac. ;-)
I know you are joking Dave but I can name someone who *really* does drive like that! :-(
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stuart bruce wrote:
>
> Dave wrote:
> >
> > Maybe that's the problem with my Rover. At about 6.5k revs
> it
> > completely runs out of grunt...
> >
> > ...it think it's natures way of telling my to change up to
> > second before I get to the end of my Cul-de-sac. ;-)
>
> I know you are joking Dave but I can name someone who
> *really* does drive like that! :-(
Certianly isn't Mr D. Coultard!
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All the above is sound advice, but I would also check out the inlet manifold heater. This is fitted to the underside of the manifold below the throttle body / injector unit. Round aluminium disc about three inches diameter with lots of small spikes on the top surface (hence also known as a 'hedgehog') to disipate heat. Should have a battery voltage supply with ignition on until engine reaches a certain temperature (Sorry, don't have detailed data to hand!). I have had a couple where the resistance of the heater element is way out of spec. Beware - they get *very* hot !!
Regards, Adam
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Just to let you know my long running problem has now been solved. After reading your advice and thinking about the problem I decided to replace the fuel filter, as at my last MOT the report said there was a possible leak from it.
The filter was full of s*** and now my car runs fine (touch wood).
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Thanks for the advice regarding my polo. I've looked into what most of you have mentioned already and I'm still drawing a blank:-(
I thought it could be the inlet manifold heater but I put on a 2nd hand one I had and it definately worked. To be honest I'm not using the car much at the moment but even when I used it daily it messed me around. It's been okay recently because of the hot weather tho!!
I personally think its the distributor as in the Haynes manual it says the hall sender in the distributor adjusts the ingnition when the engines cold to make up for the lack of choke. Once warmed up a little it goes fine. Sounds very lumpy and rough when fully cold tho'. I guess I'll have to book it in in a couple of months when I get some free cash.
Thanks...Andy.
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