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I'd like to know what is the purpose of the two rivets that go through rear frame/chassis (not sure of the correct name), into the backplate when there are four hefty bolts that hold the whole assembly onto the frame anyway?
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When the drum is removed that's all that holds your back plate from dropping off with your brake flexi attached. and makes it much eaier to fit shoes/wheel cylinder.
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The four bolts behind that go through the frame, clamp the stub axle against the backplate preventing the backplate from dropping off when the drum is removed.
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pullgees - the proper way to remove the drum is by removing the very four bolts you're discussing, and removing drum, bearing and stub axle as one unit - NOT by removing the dustcap and undoing the bearing. Much easier, quicker, and better for the bearing.
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Except you can't remove the assembly that way because of the two brake shoe retaining pins that suspend the brake shoes on the back plate. You can only remove those pins by unclipping them from the brake shoes inside the drum. And the only way to do that is to take the hub nut off and then take the drum off.
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>>Except you can't remove the assembly that way
No, the brake shoes don't move, you don't need to touch any retaining pins.
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Ah ! I see now. By undoing the four nuts at the back and withdrawing the drum and stub axle the brake shoes will remain in place attached to the back plate undisturbed. Sorry
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Someone should have told Haynes about that method. I've had two Fiestas and always taken the hub nut off to do the brakes I've not any problems with the bearings afterwards. Getting at those bolts behind is awkward and they are on extremely tight from factory. Is the hub nut correct torque that critical?
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the brake shoes will remain in place attached to the back plate undisturbed.
Yes, that's the idea. There's no real need to take the wheel off the drum.
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weve had this discussion before im sure and my way is to ONLY take the large stub axle nut off
this way you can check the shoes
the cylinder
the springs
readjust the auto adjuster properly and not mess with stupid bolts that are an odd size anyway in the back
let me put it this way when the mk5 fiesta came out it was then possible to remove a leaky wheel cylinder without having to remove that stupidly designed backplate as ford moved its location slightly
i rest my case,you only need to not use power tools on the 4 nutted nut and you will have no problemso
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>>this way you can check the shoes
That's no different
>>the cylinder
That's no different
>>the springs
That's no different
>>readjust the auto adjuster properly
I've always found the auto adjusters on Fords either work properly, or, need to be renewed. Unlike those on Vauxhalls, which are a bit of a misnomer.
However, I think the Ford approved method of removing the bolts from the back is much more suited to typical dealer servicing being carried out on a 2 post ramp. On a 4 poster, on jacked up on the floor, I would probably disturb the bearing as per BB.
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"However, I think the Ford approved method of removing the bolts from the back is much more suited to typical dealer servicing being carried out on a 2 post ramp".
And that's probably why Haynes omit that method as their manuals are not strictly written for the trade.
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3x of those bolts can be removed with a 1/2 drive ratchet & small bar and the 17mm socket, the other i use a ring spanner that is cranked at the end fits on easier just to snap it then the socket just fits on to wind it off.
The bearings can get damaged the other way ford say when disturbed to replace but they would say that!
Like nc says the adjuster are rubbish you may find a lip on the drum best to rub this flat with a buffing wheel in a drill, and manually adjust shoes.
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