110 1999 1V 35000 miles
Golf 1.9 GT TDi
Wife's car and therefore not noticed it before.
Definite lack of power, feels like driving a non turbo car. Although once up to speed things slightly improve.
Wife does little mileage from cold every day, so appreciate problems that causes. (And yes, before anyone asks, I have tried to get her to get on her bike, many times.)
I sometimes take it for a spin and give it a bit of welly, and watch the black stuff belching out the back, great satisfaction, but this time it does not seem to have helped.
Local independent recommended a mass air flow change, but reading everyone else's threads, it would appear not quite as simple as that. Although for the cost of the part £80, I might as well change it myself anyway, as it appears to be straight forward job.
Interested to know if this is this the magic cure or not, thanks for any advice given.
Edited by Pugugly on 14/09/2008 at 22:58
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Did your garage read any error codes via the diagnostic connector. You could try just dissconnecting the MAF, if it improves then it could point to a duff MAF. Not uncommon. Regards Peter
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Hi Peter,
Did as you suggested, (also replaced air filter whilst under bonnet) disconnected the MAF and taken the car out for 5 mile run, there appears to be no difference in performance.
Reconnected it again and still the same. I suspect then that the turbo is clogged with lack of hard/continuous driving.
Would this be the case? I must admit, I don't know what the MAF does with regard the turbo kicking in/functioning.
Perhaps I should swap cars for a few weeks and give the poor old thing a 'good seeing to', would certainly improve my day!
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Should have seen this earlier on this website,
Intermittent power loss on TDI 90s and 110s may be due to one of the following:- sticking turbo due to dirty oil; dirty or faulty mass airflow sensor; exhaust gas recircularion solenoid valve sticking open; wastegate valve actuator rod sticking; faulty throttle switches; faulty temperature sensor; loose or leaking brake servo pipe or turbo boost pipe from fuel pump to turbo; faulty ECU; faulty Relay 109 (if it's white it needs to be replaced with a new spec relay coloured grey, costs £11). Golf Mk IV TDI starting problems may be cured by replacing the 109 Relay with p/n 1J0 906 381A (grey instead of black) uprated version - a little better. (about £10.00), and replaced the engine temperature sensor which also regulates the fuel supply via the ECU with uprated sensor (green) instead of blue)p/n 059 919 501A (about £24.00).
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Peter, thinking about what I did regarding disconnecting MAF, if I found no difference when disconnected and subsequently reconnected, then this must point to the MAF not working at all????????
Have I missed the boat or what.
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Mate,
a great number of problems but have the error code from VAGcom would help...I bet you get a 17965 over boost code.. (Do not worry,,,,,,,)
I no expert but I have come across this issue a couple of times.... firstly and the easist is to check all your pipe work for loose connections or cracks.... check the 2" pipe that comes out of the turbo...... also there is a thin black pipe that goes to the ECU box.
However.. I'm willing to bet it is your N75 valve (boost control valve)....and the vains in the turbo are full of pooh.... check my post from Dec 2007
This car is still running well...
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=57926&...e
I have also since done simlar to above but did not remove the turbo... I simply managed to move the NVT forwards and backwards and then took the car for a hard drive...... that sorted that motor too....
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HM- Checked all pipes to and from and all look ok.
Had time to fiddle around today.
I took apart the MAF, I carefully took the plastic cover of the electrode cover (this was sealed by a small linear run of waterproof sealant) and exposed a rectangular printed circuit board, nothing there I could repair. Carefully resealed it again with DIY external mastic.
Whilst out of position, I reconnected the electrical socket, turned the engine on and blew across the MAF opening where the air would be drawn in, when in-line in air intake. The result being that it activated something (dont know what!) as I could hear change of air noise and a faint 'clunk'. Again not knowing how this all works is frustrating.
All I seem to have proved to myself, is the persons who recommend cleaning the MAF by soaking it in cleaning fluid, dont know what they are talking about. It would be the equivalent of dropping your mobile phone in water!
You mention the N75 valve, can you explain where it is.
On the bulkhead, there are two valves linked with all the black tubes, one with a grey top (Right hand side looking from front), the other with a black top (LH side), they have the words 'VAG out' written on them. Is it one of these.
Trawling through many searches on the Tdi loss of power it seems a common problem.
Will try your N75 route first, before the manual turning of the turbo, from underneath the car.
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I recently suffered power loss to my TDi, though it was the old 90bhp model; after quite bit of troubleshooting (MAF, intercooler leak etc), it was found that the oxidation catalyst was partly blocked. A replacement solved the problem. May not be relevant to your issue but I thought I'd mention it just in case.
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ifekas- Thanks for that. I would not be surprised if that was the case. The small amount of mileage from cold will be playing havoc with the exhaust system, I'm surprised the exhaust has lasted as long as it has.
I should swap cars for a few weeks and try and get some mileage done, see if that will help. The car goes so well in all other ways. Strange.
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Right just to finish this thread.
Have taken the car away from the other half for a week now and given it the 'Italian tune up'.
I did a few motorway runs staying in third with revs up to just under the limit and slowly and surely the turbo started to respond. It's not quite 100% yet but the improvement is vast. I suspect it was as ifekas suggested, blocked cat.
I had forgotten how much fun the golf is. The slow moving miles the wife does, shows just how resilient the car is. I did order a MAF from my local Auto factors, but will wait now to see if I really need one.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
Oh and on one other point, the automatic looking stopped working on the drivers door (plunger would not go up and down). Took all the inside leaf off and more, could not see/reach anything to mend/fix. Sprayed some silicone oil/penatrion oil in all 'holes' I could see. Took the barrel lock out, again nothing to see/mend. Took ages to do, then put it all back again. Still not working. Next day still the same, so in frustration I slammed the door hard, bingo works again. I think from reading this forum there is a micro switch that operates the door plungers and it had either stuck in or out, not sure which. The slam freeing it again. Happy Days!
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I never finished this thread, it was the MAF after all. The blast down the motorways improved things but spasmodic. New MAF and as good as new.
Now in 2011 and still going strong.
Cars of a certain age with less gismo's to go wrong are the way to go.
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