Hi folks, I have some questions about buying a new car (the first time I will ever have done so).
1. I see the term "delivery mileage" about a lot? I assume all cars come with "delivery mileage" but what does that consist of and how many is acceptable?
2. When / if I get my new car, are there any checks / actions that I can take immediately to a) make sure the car is as it should be and b) to prolong the life and condition of the car?
3. If anyone has used Drive the Deal before, can they possibly e-mail (garethwayne at yahoo dot co.uk) me their experiences good / bad... this will be the 2nd biggest purchase of my life so I want to make sure i'm doing the right thing, and DTD always get lots of press on here...
Thanks for your help
edited out your e-mail address, apparently it prevents "harvesting" whatever that is. No naming and shaming or it'll get chopped. - PU
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I've only bought two new cars. The first was an Audi A4 in 2000 from local dealership. Easy and pleasurable experience (apart from the cost!). The second was a VW Passat in 2006 (56 plate) which I bought through dtd. I'd recommend dvd as they offer a good price and then put you in touch with the nearest dealer of that make and you then make all payments to that dealer.
In terms of ensuring the long life of the vehicle stick to the servicing schedule (even consider intermediate oil changes) and keep the clean and waxed. My 7 year old Audi looks almost new. No doubt you'll be offered some paintwork protection scheme for about £300 though I have no experience of the value of such things.
Good luck with the purchase.
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I agree about the immediate oil change on a used car but not a new one. Some manufacturers still add additives to the first oil to assist with bedding in the bores and the like and I suspect that an immediate oil change, not carried out by the dealer, will bring into question the validity of the warrantee. Regards Peter
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I didn't mean an early first change, but to consider intermediate changes thereafter. Some intervals can be as long as 20,000 miles which is far too long IMO.
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@ Peter,
I miss-read it at first too.
It said INTERMEDIATE, not IMMEDIATE lol.
Thanks for the advice so far!
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What kind of car are you thinking of buying? I only ask as it will make easier for us all to mess with your head with loads of different alternatives.
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1. I see the term "delivery mileage" about a lot? I assume all cars come with "delivery mileage" but what does that consist of and how many is acceptable? -
That depends. Buy from a main dealer locally and no more than say 30 miles. A dealer further away may deliver the car to you and add 200 onto that. Some may trailer it to you. When I had compnay cars I had between 12 and 200 miles when I first got mine. 3 years ago, our new Hyundai Trajet had 30 miles, of which I know at least 20 had been carried our delivering the car to me and taking it before delivery to places to have things fitted that were not factory or dealer fit options.
2. When / if I get my new car, are there any checks / actions that I can take immediately to a) make sure the car is as it should be and b) to prolong the life and condition of the car?
a) check you have the right spec as per the order form and brochure - go through all the equipment to see if it works and is actually built into the car!
b) run it in well. Used the gears (even in an automatic) and get the revs up to maximum permitted regularly. See HJs FAQs.
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Don't some makers zero the car's odometer before delivery to the customer ?
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Our lease company tells me cars are delivered with a driver if less than 100 miles and on a low-loader if more than 100 miles.
I have actually collected all my new company cars from fairly local dealers (3 cars so far) but the next is from Leicester and that is 106 miles away. I may still try to collect because I'd want to be sure car okay etc. and I am trying to offset delivery against the iPod adapter ;-)
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If it has alloy wheels remove them and put a thin film of copper grease on the mounting faces to prevent corrosion developing that might cause the wheels to stick onto the hubs.
Look under the bonnet for pipes and cables which touch something else and which could become damaged by chafing when the engine moves on its mountings. Wrap PVC tape around the pipe/cable at the suspect points. If necessary tie (or tape) pipes/cables together to prevent relative movement.
Loosen wheel bolts and retighten to the correct torque using a torque wrench.
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L\'escargot.
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Thanks guys for all the useful advice...
Much appreciated.
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I think "delivery mileage" in the context of the OP's post will refer to cars that have been pre-reg by the dealer, and then put on the forecourt at a 'knock-down' price with a Delivery Miles Only sticker on them. So only 5 miles, but you will not be first owner. Most probably not that much cheaper than new ones you could get by hard haggling....
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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see the term "delivery mileage" about a lot? I assume all cars come with "delivery mileage" but what does that consist of and how many is acceptable?
I have taken delivery of 4 new cars in the last few months (company cars none for me sadly!), 2 x Ford and 2 x BMW. Both Fords had less than 20 miles on them, as well as one of the BMWs. On the other BMW the dealer called me the week before and asked if I minded them driving the car from the port to the dealer (about 100 miles), which would enable us to take delivery a few days early. We did not mind at all and it turned up with about 120 miles on the clock.
Unless you are having the car delivered to your home from a dealer far away, or you know of other circumstances eg my situation then delivery mileage should be say 20 miles or something along those lines.
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On collecting a new car:
Inspect the car carefully for scratches, dents etc especially along the sides, door edges, front and rear valance etc. Look inside door shuts (twice I've had new cars where the seat belt buckle had been shut in the door). Also look for damage to glass, lights and wheels. Check the number plates are on straight (if they're stuck on they can break when removed).
One thing I would say, is that if you're going to do this, you've got to do it really well - you can't really be seen to inspect a car thoroughly, and then go back later and say you've found a scratch.
Make sure all the keys are present, and that they're all programmed correctly (ie they work). Also that the service and handbbok etc are there.
Do all the above *before* you hand over any money or hand in your p/x. Believe me, it's a *lot* easier to get problems sorted if you're still holding the cheque in your hand!
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I have to agree with Bill Payer - if there is anything wrong with the car walk away.
I picked up a new car once for SWTSMBO and it had a scratch on the front.
I took the dealers word that they would repair it back to new standard in a few days and proceeded to do the deal and drive away.
They made a complete bodge of the repair and I had the devils own job trying to get it fixed corrrectly. Being VW dealers they were not bothered once they sold it. (a bit harsh but that is how it was).
It's not something we all do that often so make sure you fully inspect body work and that everything works ok.
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Inflate the spare to the maximum pressure allowable, which will be marked on the sidewall. All tyres lose pressure with time, and if you subsequently need to use the spare it's a lot easier in an emergency situation to let out any excess air than to have to inflate the tyre. Repeat the over-inflation procedure after you've had the car serviced because a conscientious service technician is liable to adjust the pressure to the normal setting.
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L\'escargot.
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I too agree with Bill P.
New cars are often delivered in apalling condition: chipped paint/chipped alloys, bulbs not working, doord incorrectly hung, paint lacquer peeling. etc.
(from my experiences incl Peugeot and Audi and BMW)
Check everything. Most dealers are OK. Some don't give a cuss.
Paint protection is a waste of money. Clean and polish every 6 months. And wash underneath to remove salt and mud in spring.
Overcarpets add value on resale and make cleaing easier. (Our 14 year old 106 has unworn carpets thanks to rubber mats).
I also go underneath in year 2 and waxoil any touches of rust.. and touch up exhaust with heat proof paint... (106 has 14 year old back box)
Read handbook - surprising how many do not and fail to use facilities..(I kid you not)
madf
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If it has locking wheel bolts, order a spare wheel bolt key asap and keep it somewhere safe.
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L\'escargot.
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One thing I like to do to any car of mine is to spray the electrical connectors with a sealant. On Italian/French cars these connectors are usually rubbish. Also check tightness of same.
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All of the above may be good advice, but don't lose hope. Our last joint car and first Hyundai had a fault. The volume control worked on the radio and cassette player but not on the CD which was flat out whatever one did; apparently two connectors had to be swapped over. I have noticed nothing at all wrong on my new coupe (other than front drive but I knew that!).
We had the same sort of thing for years on Toyotas.
How much is down to the maker and how much to the dealer is hard to say. The Japanese makers used to say their products had to work off the boat, because they sold worldwide, including places where the dealers could not be relied on. Now that the Jap firms manufacture so much outside Japan I incline to think Korea has taken over.
Anyway more people have a pleasant experience than a bad one, though they are less inclined to comment on it. I hope you may be another.
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