Hi,
I have been informed by the man who does the M.O.T's that the big end is going in the engine. I understand I think what it is.
The M.O.T man said as long as I do not go over 60 mph it will last me until the next M.O.T
( he assumes I am only going to keep the car for 12 months )
My question is , is it expensive to fix. The M.O.T man is he correct in what he says.
Thankyou sorry to be a pain.
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If it is the big ends, it will be a knocking sound, increasing with engine revs.
If you MOT man is right, he's a bolder man than I would be. In my experience, failing big ends tend to make a bid for freedom, and punch a large hole in the side of the block!!
Which engine do you have?
If it's a 13S or a 16SH, you can do the crank with the engine in situ - i.e., you don't need to take the engine out. But, even when these engines were popular, the bearing kit wasn't cheap. I don't know what the costs will be now - it's 16 years ago since I last did one of these!
If you take the job on, you'll need (as a bare minimum)
to drop the front pipe off (so, 2 new gaskets there)
a new sump gasket
the tools for taking the clutch out in-situ
a new oil pump and pick-up pipe gasket
new crankshaft rear and oil pump seals
to get the crank reground
a new bearing kit (main & big end)
new big end and big end bolts
a new oil pump (these are a bit fragile, and well worth replacing while it's off)
As you'll have the cam belt off, it's better to fit a new one.
The drive between the crank nose and the inner features of the inner oil pump gear will robably be well worn - it's worth making sure that there is sufficient material here to continue to drive the pump.
As you can see, it's quite a job. If you can source a known good engine from, say, a scrapyard, and can do the work yourself, I doubt if the job is worth doing - although, of course, that's up to you.
If you do go ahead, be sure to ID mark the bearing caps properly before taking them off.
Number_Cruncher
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Thank you number cruncher,
I am not mechanicaly minded. It would have to be someone else
to do the job. It does sound expensive to fix the problem.
What sort of newer engine would fit in a mark 2 cavelier?
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Get a second opinion. Is the engine knocking as described? Could it be something else merely banging, like exhaust pipe?
He may well be right, although I've met MOT men who weren't very knowledgeable on non-MOT mechanics.
If it's only a tiny knock you might get away for a bit just with using a thicker oil.
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it will be a lobe on the camshaft thats worn,whip the cam cover off and look for wear .
If it was the big ends knocking how did he manage to do the co test with no load on the engine and as said bits of conrod looking for new homes as he did it?
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Thank you Cliff Pope Oldman. Thankyou all,
At least now I have an idea on the areas to focus. I will get a few opinions and speak about the things you have mentioned.
Thanks once again to all of for your help and advice
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it will be a lobe on the camshaft thats worn
Yes, these used to fail quite a lot!! Again, happily, these can be done in-situ, no need to take the head off!
After about 1989/1990, after a long run of bad press, Vauxhall introduced a much more hard wearing cam material for this type of engine. I don't know if they also made their way into the replacment parts for older cars, like this, because, it is unlikely that the cam in this car is original (unless it's only done 30K or so!)
It should be easy to listen with a stethoscope, and hear where the noise is coming from, and as oldman says, visually checking the cam is only a matter of taking the cam cover off.
Number_Cruncher
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It might be cheaper to buy a complete car, say from ebay for next to nothing and swap the engine over. I have done this a few times in the past. I had a Maestro Van that was fine but the engine threw a con road through the crankcase as 70mph!
£60 and one MOT failure Maestro car kept the van on the road for another three years then I sold it! I even got £25 scrap back for the car that donated the engine!! All done in a day with a basic tool kit and a haynes manual : o )
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It depends on your engine size, but you might find a spare engine in a daewoo, vectra or newer astra, you'll need to check exactly, but i think the 8v block and head haven't changed that much over the years. Especially the daewoo as that uses older generation vauxhall mechanical bits, the electronics, etc is all different for the later emmisions tests the later cars must meet tho. Just take the block or whole engine if your carb/injection system will fit. If you can find a newer complete engine that's probably the best bet, if you get just the block, you'll probably pay the extra price of the head in a head set and other parts needed to fit your old head to it.
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>>but i think the 8v block and head haven't changed that much over the years
While that's true in general appearance, I'm not sure things are quite as simple as that.
If it's a 16SH engine, then that 1600 engine size in form, shape and layout ended with the mkII. Mk III Cav 1.6 engines were 16SV, which were a lot smaller, and based on the old 1300 block, rather than sharing parts with the 16SH. Derivatives of the 16SV, have all been similar, right up the current Z16SE.
Number_Cruncher
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Thankyou NumberCruncher Stuart Mark25,
thankyou for your advice, I have learned a lot shame I never did mechanics a talent I have not got. You all have been very helpfull thankyou as all have with help and advice given on the issues I have had with my car..
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Dont know where abouts you are? But i have a 89 mrk2 1600 cav. that im soon scrapping through bad rust, but the engine is fine (always has been.. owned 10yrs) never had to top up oil. just yearly changed, its done 103,000.
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>>but i think the 8v block and head haven't changed that much over the years While that's true in general appearance, I'm not sure things are quite as simple as that. If it's a 16SH engine, then that 1600 engine size in form, shape and layout ended with the mkII. Mk III Cav 1.6 engines were 16SV, which were a lot smaller, and based on the old 1300 block, rather than sharing parts with the 16SH. Derivatives of the 16SV, have all been similar, right up the current Z16SE. Number_Cruncher
I stand corrected, i had a quick look at a 2002 astra 8v SPi and thought that looks familiure, without going into too much detail, i think the daweoo suggestion is a bum steer too as IIRC they only use the 16v unit, for emmisions reasons.
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