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right i have got a citroen saxo 1.1 p reg and the problem is the brake pedal travel is too excessive i have replaced the master cylinder and bled the brakes until no more air comes out from any of the system i did this by starting at the furthest point away from the master cylinder but still excess travel i got in the car and tried pumping up the brakes with the engine switched both on and off and they will not pump up anymore at all please can someone give me some ideas otherwise a rag in the tank seems the only action lol
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Did you check the internal diameter of the new master cylinder compared to the old one. are all the flexi's in A1 condition and benn inspected for bulges whilst you are stood on the brakes with the engine running. Have you got the rear drum brakes correctly adjusted. If not sure apply hand brake and pump brakes up. Are the brakes spongy or just bottom out too low down the pedal travel. Regards Peter
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hello mate
thanks for reply when i got the car the brakes had not being adjusted at the rear so i thoughtb this would be the problem unfortunately not i then replaced the master cylinder still got the same problem what it is is if you get in the car put your foot on the brake without doing anything else it sinks to about 3 quarters of the way down and will not pump up no mattrer how many times you pump it
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I'd put money on the adjusters in the rear brakes not working properly. If, by some miracle, they are, then it could be that the rear drums are too big and the mechanism has got to the end of the travel. Try pulling the handbrake on, and then if the pedal goes to reasonable travel after 2 or 3 pumps, you can be sure the rear brakes are at fault.
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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Agree with above - almost certainly rear shoe adjusters. The most common problems are due to the handbrake lever pivots being seized in the shoe webs, handbrake over adjusted at the bottom of the lever (under car) or the use of unsuitable pattern parts, where the adjuster ratchet teeth are too soft, wear smooth and fail to grip.
Before going further with this, you should remove both drums, check everything is free, then test the adjusters very carefully with one drum removed at a time - each shoe should advance with "clicks" as the pedal is gently pressed, and not return. Don't over do it, otherwise the pistons will come out of the slave cylinders. Seized cylinders are also common on these Bendix brakes. Reset the adjusters and renew the hub nuts and bearing closure plates on re-assembly.
If you are 100% certain all is well with the rear brakes and the hydraulics are bled, check the linkage between the pedal and the servo/master cylinder. This has adjusting nuts - there must be a small clearance between the push rod and the master cylinder piston at rest, but only of the order of 2mm (check value in manual). The brakes are not brilliant on these cars in RHD form, even when everything is working properly.
659.
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thaks for advice guys will try out the rear brake idea tomorrow thoght it strange that the rear brakes were not adjusted up when i took the drums off i just presumed that nobody had adjusted them previously
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right tried the theory of the rear brake adjusters but they work fine aqnd so does the handbrake the brake pedal is not spongy and cant be pumped up there is just alot of pedal travel before the brakes start to work
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follow 659FBE to the letter and i am sure you will find the problem will be solved (good quality shoes helps as he says and not pattern parts)it will also be worth looking at the thickness of the discs in relation to new ones and also how worn the pads are.
I wouldnt recommend you adjust the linkage at the bulkhead however unless you are very competant, i am and i wouldnt do it .
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\"a little man in a big world/\"
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Did you take both brake shoes out on each side and check that the lever pivots in the shoe webs (retained by "star" clips) are perfectly free? This design will not work unless they are.
659.
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are you on about the handbrake lever pivoting ?
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No. The levers I'm referring to are inside the drums, pivoted to the webs of the brake shoes (the metal part of the shoe at right angles to the linings). There is one lever on each side which is pulled by the handbrake cable, and another on each side which is part of the self-adjusting mechanism. These levers move on "nail head" pins (about 6mm dia) and are retained by star clips - new ones are provided with new brake shoes.
Make sure also that these brakes are correctly assembled - it's possible to get some of the return springs into the wrong holes on the shoes.
659.
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