I got thinking on this last night and was wondering why tubeless tyres?
I do a lot of mountain biking and recently tubeless tyres have become available on top end competition bikes. One of which I own. They argue, better puncture resistance and better ride.
I was wondering if anyone knew why cars are fitted with tubeless tyres and what the advantages are?
I would have thought it would make more sense in a puncture (car or bike) to replace the tube, than try and repair the tyre?
When I last got a puncture on my car, I was told it couldn't be repaired because it was tubeless and a repair wasn't suitable due to the position of the puncture. When I asked if a tube could be used, I was told it couldn't.
Any thoughts on why tubeless tyres on cars.
Cheers WipeOut
|
I assume that tubeless tyres were a natural progression brought about by the change from spoked wheels. No spokes means no holes which means no need for a tube.
--
L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
|
|
|
They argue, better puncture resistance and better ride.
I don't pretend to know the reasoning behind it, but I think you answered your own question here.
One thought that coems to mind is that car tyres need to have a squared off shape. Were the tyres tubed, I imagine they would more naturally keep a rounded form. You could force them to a squared off shape still with much stiffer sidewalls, but that would help towards the ride being poorer.
|
Tubeless tyres tend to retain their pressure if punctured by say, a nail. You may never notice the problem.
Tubed tyres deflate rapidly when punctured- as most of the older backroomers will testify.I guess a lot of the air would leak past the bead.
--
I wasna fu but just had plenty.
|
As well as cost and puncure tolerance also mentioned...
> Tubeless tyres eliminate the wear and heating problems caused by friction between tube and tyre carcass.
> Tubless tyres have no problems caused by differential 'growth' of tube v tyre through centrapetal force as the wheel assembly spins faster.
> Tubless tyres are easier to design to offer more control, such as felxibilty to give grip, or sidewall deformation under sideways load.
> Tubeless tyres tend to dislodge in to the wheel well with total loss of air pressure, thus helping the driver retain control. Tubed tyres tend to roll completely off the wheel (and then roll away from the car!) leaving the car driving on metal contact alone.
> Tubeless tyres have potentially lower unsprung weight, to the benefit of handling and ride control
> Tubeless tyres are easier to balance accurately
|
|
I had the option to upgrade to tubeless on my mountain bike at the time of purchase - didn't bother though and don't regret it. I ride with Slime tubes, which have never had a puncture from new (several months ago) and just need topping up to 60psi from time to time.
|
|
|
|
|
Hang on a mo'. Why are tubes an extra option for 4x4s destined for genuine off-road work rather than Chelsea pavement duty? If they are so bad, why offer them?
|
Hang on a mo'. Why are tubes an extra option for 4x4s destined for genuine off-road work rather than Chelsea pavement duty? If they are so bad, why offer them?
I can only imagine that this is because sometimes it is desirable with off road work to drop tyre pressures to such a low value that they would otherwise break the bead and lose all pressure.
This extreme never applies to road usage, or (much lighter all up weight, of course) mountain bike usage.
|
|
You'll probably find that the tubes come with tyre clamps as well, where you have to drill the wheels and insert a couple of these to clamp the tyre to the rim to stop the wheel just spinning within the tyre when the pressure is reduced to almost nothing.
|
|
|
|
