I have a question volume 41 - No Do$h

******* Thread now closed, please see volume 42 ********

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=22169


In this thread you may ask any question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.

It does not need to be motoring related. In fact, in this thread it should not be.

No Questions About PC\'s. They now go in another Thread.
No politics
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which I think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )

Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.

However, as has been said a couple of times, there is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.

This is Volume 41. Previous Volumes will not be deleted,

A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=18847



No Dosh
Backroom Moderator
mailto:moderators@honestjohn.co.uk

Automatic Garage Door Troubles - Robin
I have just moved into a house with the luxury of electrically operated garage doors. Sadly, not remote control from the car but there are a couple of boxes that look like radio receivers so maybe in the future. Anyway, one of the doors has a problem. When I press the button to close the door it moves down into the closed position OK but then instantly opens again. The button to operate it is asimple bell-push type: one press to open, another to close.

Any ideas?
Automatic Garage Door Troubles - Cardew
Mine does this if it hits an obstruction on the way down.i.e. it goes up as soon as it hits the obstruction. It could be that it is trying to go down too far and 'senses' the ground/door frame as an obstruction. Depending on the mechanism it might need an adjustment so it doesn't go down quite so far.

Automatic Garage Door Troubles - Mark (RLBS)
Does it have a sensor, usually infrared ? This needs to line up on both sides and if its been knocked, it may not.
Automatic Garage Door Troubles - Robin
I think I have sorted out the problem and now just need to fix it. The part of the mechanism that pushes the door along is stopped when it hits a sensor. I disconnected the door and operated the mechanism - no problem. With the door back on it goes down and up again as before. From Cardew's suggestion about obstructions I think that the sensor is in the wrong place: the door hits the ground before the sensor is activated. The mechanism then sees the floor as an obstruction and goes into reverse. All I need to do is move the sensor back an inch or two and it should be sorted. Cannot think how the sensor got into the wrong place though.

Many thanks for the input
Automatic Garage Door Troubles - Cardew
SWMBO involuntarily tested out our garage door by closing it onto an obstruction - her car! Only a small dent!
Home Office - Garden or Loft - Jono_99
Have tried looking through the Forum Search, without luck, so hope this has not been asked before.

Am moving house in August and as I work from home, am considering options around how best to set myself up. Short term is in the spare room (as now), but medium term, am looking to go either into the loft, or build a 'log cabin' in the back garden.

From some web research and talking to vendors of sheds / log cabins and the like, it appears that I could spend anything between £1,000 and £10,000 on a 4m x 3m log cabin, depending on what sort of quality I want. While I am sure 'you get what you pay for' to a greater extent, I am not sure what I should or should not be putting on my 'must have' list of things with regard to the options list. Clearly (?) it is going to need cladding / insulation so I can use it all year round, but if I do this, what difference does having 'thick' - 44mm - walls have over 'thin' - 28mm walls make?

Any one gone through this, or can point me in the direction of a company / person that is wise on such matters?

The loft conversion is a second choice really - my impression is that building regs for such things have become much stricter, and as a result, costs have risen to allow for such requirements as emergency exits and landing areas. However, if I am going to end up parting with a five figure sum for a 'fully usable' garden office, I may be better putting my money into the roof!

Any words of wisdom / thoughts gratefully received.

Jono
Home Office - Garden or Loft - Tim
Jono,
Before going too much further down this route get in touch with your local planning department (ask to speak to a DC (Development Control) Officer. You may find that they take the view that this will require a planning application as the proposed use could be considered to not be ancillary to the main residential use of the house. Best to get their view in writing before you propose to start or you could end up facing enforcement action.

Tim (a Planning Officer)
Home Office - Garden or Loft - Mapmaker
Beware a 'home office' giving rise to a part of your home that is solely for business use, and so giving rise to a CGT cost when you sell the house.

Contemplate doing a bodged job on the loft conversion, without buildings regs, and just creating 'storage space'. When you come to sell, sell it as 'storage space', and then the next buyer will be able to read between the lines!

IIRC there was discussion in this thread a few months back on the quantity of heating required for log cabins such as the one you suggest.
Home Office - Garden or Loft - Brill {P}
As a start (if you go the log cabin route) have a look at
www.henleyoffices.com (I didn't use them but they may have useful info).

I have a large log cabin with solid 4" walls which seems to hold warmth well. It's also double glazed.

Mine has power, phones and adsl. The power is buried in a trench. phones and adsl via conduit.

I use a fan heater at the moment, the roof is well insulated.

Given the choice, I prefer the garden to the house...but it depends on your garden I suppose! Or the view from the loft. Luckily I have a suburban/woodland setting and love it. It's a sort of Norwegian chalet affair.

You will need to think of security. I have strong locks and neat collapsible shutters on the windows. Alarm and shutters were an insurance requirement as I have a lot of equipment.

Hope that helps, mail me if you want.

Stu.
Home Office - Garden or Loft - hxj

Sorry but doing a 'bodged' job is too stupid for words.

Despite a natural hatred for petty regulation I wouldn't like to be in a bodged loft conversion with no proper landing/stairway or fire protection of the worst was to happen. What if a child was to fall down the stairway and injure themselves seriously?

Lofts without proper ventilation and heating are horrible places to work. Fork out a bit of money and have the job done properly. Long term you will not lose as much doing it that way.

Provided the area is not used exclusively for business purposes then there will be no CG problems. Simply using the room regularly for non-business purposes is sufficient to avoid a CG and a business rates charge.

You will of course also need to be insured properly.
Home Office - Garden or Loft - Mapmaker
'Sorry but doing a 'bodged' job is too stupid for words.' Natch!

My whole house wouldn't get through modern buildings regs. It doesn't have ground floor wheelchair access. It doesn't have a lift, it doesn't have even a single firedoor.

All perfectly acceptable when it was built 150 years ago.

Some lofts don't have sufficient headroom to be converted within buildings regs, but if you happen to want a bit of space, and don't mind ducking, then it's a perfectly sensible, economy, solution. Maybe he doesn't have a child, in which case the child falling down isn't a worry. A couple of hundred quid at B&Q for some boarding, paint & an airbrick or two, with an electric radiator is a dickens of a lot cheaper than a 10k chalet in the garden.

Home Office - Garden or Loft - NowWheels
Some lofts don't have sufficient headroom to be converted within buildings
regs, but if you happen to want a bit of space,
and don't mind ducking, then it's a perfectly sensible, economy, solution.


a friend of mine made a loft office like that, on the cheap -- she was very pleased with it.

One brilliant feature was that it had no stairs, just a rope ladder. This was retracted when she went to work, so her teenage children couldn't come in and disturb her.
Home Office - Garden or Loft - frostbite
Portacabin not an option?
Home Office - Garden or Loft - Rob C
:-).
They make an ideal addition to any garden space.
You can get an "office in a container" as well, like builders use on-site.

I think what previous posters are saying is you can convert your loft for a reasonable amount of cash (boarding , insulation, couple of Velux's) and the authorities need not be any the wiser.
Englishman's home... is a phrase that springs to mind.
Home Office - Garden or Loft - Tim
"I think what previous posters are saying is you can convert your loft for a reasonable amount of cash (boarding , insulation, couple of Velux's) and the authorities need not be any the wiser"

Two problems:
1) If you come to sell the property within the next 10 years you may well find that the buyers solicitor will ask whether it has permission
2) Velux windows and/or additional vehicle movements to and from the property are also likely to give it away to the Local Planning Department and/or your neighbours. Seek planning advice first
Home Office - Garden or Loft - Rob C
After four years any development work becomes "allowed" if no issues are raised during that time.

Some planning authorities are quite particular about rooflights, others are not, especially if the rooflight faces the rear, and not into the street.
I would advise seek planning advice, of course, but if one is just converting a loft in the same manner as one might change a small bedroom to a home office for home working then why complicate the issue.
If there is going to be a small business running then that is a bigger issue.
Home Office - Garden or Loft - Mapmaker
Don't confuse buildings regulations with planning permission.

Something that doesn't comply with BRegs never will. This will only cause trouble when you come to sell the house if you claim that there is a loft conversion. If you just claim 'loft storage space' then you should be fine. It obviously won't add (much) to the value of the house, though.

Home Office - Garden or Loft - mfarrow
Authorities can be a bit picky about roof windows. On a similar note I know of a home owner who was not allowed to put a PV unit on the back of his house because, say the council, it would ruin the look of the cottage.

By the way, the back faced onto fields!!!
Home Office - Garden or Loft - Rob C
I always found London Borough of Richmond to be very fussy, whereas Selby N.Yorks are very "easy".

I'll leave you to draw your own conclusions about why that should be, though.
Home Office - Garden or Loft - Jono_99
Thanks a lot for all your advice and ideas - plenty of food for thought

Jono
Home Office - Garden or Loft - Hugo {P}
Depending on your requirement for asthetics, and access you may have, have you thought about a caravan? Not a mobil home but one of those things that hold me up every bank holiday.

You should be able to get a decent 2nd hand value within your budget and if kept clean etc it shouldn't look an eyesore. They are fairly well insulated and often come with 240v, which you can hook up to the mains via the correct equipment (BS7671 16th edition wiring regs cover caravans as well).

If and when you need to move again, you make sure it's road worthey and tow it to your new abode.

H
Home Office - Garden or Loft - Onetap
Try posting the query on the Uk-diy forum.

groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=lang_en&ie=UTF-8...y

There was a recent discussion on there about "building a shed from scratch". The ready-made sheds used smaller timbers for the frames, the side walls were low so the doors were in the gable end, etc.etc.. It was reckoned that self-build was the way to get quality materials and construction. Obviously, you don't want a garden shed, but some of these structures were built & insulated better than some houses.

Wall, floor &/or roof insulation, double-glazing, UFH, draught-proofing, etc., would all make the room more usable in winter, reduce the heating costs and minimize the effect of damp & cold on office machines and papers.

Home Office - Garden or Loft - nick
If you're going to do anything with a loft other than very light storage, check that the ceiling joists are up to it. At best, you'll end up with cracked ceilings below. And don't go cutting out any collars or other timbers, they're there for a reason.
Insect repellent - El Hacko
MegaBites: any recommendations, pse, for an effective insect repellant? One of my sons ended up in A&E on Sunday with nasty allergic reaction to leg bite while working in garden wearing only shorts, and cld only hobble for 2 days.

many thanks
EH
Insect repellent - No Do$h
Jungle Formula is pretty effective, but horrible if it gets in your eyes, nose or mouth (pity the poor midges). As a rule, look for any product that contains Deet.

If you prefer the natural approach, lemon balm and bog myrtle are both very effective. Bog myrtle was used by the vikings as an insect repellent and as a highly effective anti-depressant (thought to have caused the \"berserker\" effect) but had the downside of being highly carcinogenic if ingested in the quantities used by the vikings. So plus points, no insect bites and a reputation for fearlessnes. Minus points, you die.

Don\'t let this put you off, it is perfectly safe as a repellant. If you look on Google you should find stockists of Bog Myrtle oil (there\'s a place on Skye that bottles it).

ND
Insect repellent - PoloGirl
Hiya...

There's an old guide/scout myth that midges and things hate all things citrus and things that have high levels of vitamin B, found in either bovril or marmite (can't remember if it's both or just one of them.)

Certainly when we go to camp, the girls who have marmite on their toast don't get as bitten as the ones who don't, and we have those citrus candles to keep away the midges at night. Maybe lemon oil might be the answer?

Insect repellent - Pugugly {P}
Urrrgh Marmite I'd rather be bitten to a pulp.
Insect repellent - Van Driving Man
Boots Own Brand Insect Repellent is pretty good. I second the comments about deet - and Boots OB has it.
Insect repellent - Dalglish
works for me, has a nice smell, and combines moisturiser with it:

my.webmd.com/content/article/63/71953.htm

www.puertoquepos.com/store/insect-repellents.html

"Avon Skin-So-Soft Original is another great alternative to DEET containing insect repellants. It works so well that the U.S. Military adopted it as an insect repellent of choice. We like it's pleasant smell. It works well, but needs to be re-applied every few hours. They have re-formulated Skin So Soft into a line of bug repellants called the Skin-So-Soft Bug Guard Plus"

type "avon skin-so-soft insect repellent" in google and check out the links.
Insect repellent - Altea Ego
Take up smoking. Never have any problems with a fag on the go.
Insect repellent - No Do$h
Take up smoking. Never have any problems with a fag on
the go.


It should just be pointed out to our transatlantic bethren that Mr R Family was referring to a cigarette.
Insect repellent - Altea Ego
or maybe not ;) can I tempt you to dinner? wealthy young lad like you........
Insect repellent - terryb
I beg to differ from earlier respondents. Deet is foul stuff and you shouldn't let it near your skin.

Have a look at

www.shoo.org

I've used the stuff for years now (as has the Army I think) and it's jolly good.


--
Terry

"Just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand"
Insect repellent - terryb
...oh and a small dab of 1% hydrocortisone ointment on the bite would ease it a lot. (Equally filthy stuff as deet but only used as a specific spot treatment).

--
Terry

"Just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand"
Insect repellent - El Hacko
very grateful for all advice given, BRs
Costa Rica - Ppaul
I am planning a holiday to Costa Rica in June this year.

It's not going to be a 'lying on a beach' type holiday and it isn't big-budget either, therefore any hostel recommendations or suchlike would be a real help. Anything that should be avoided would be helpful too!

Has anyone been? If so any recommendations?

Thanks in advance!

Paul
Costa Rica - Mark (RLBS)
Make sure you see the volcano at Aranal.
Make sure you go to the cloud forests.
DO you speak Spanish ?
Where are you staying, San Jose ?
Costa Rica - Ppaul
Thanks for your info.

No I don't but another in the party does speak a bit! Is it going to be necessary to speak it fluently?

I've getting the Lonely Planet guide this weekend but we'll be staying in hostels mainly.

Exact details of where we're going are yet to be finalised but I understand that you have to get back to San Jose to get to the other parts of the country. Is that correct?
Costa Rica - Random thoughts. - Mark (RLBS)
Pretty much the case. San Jose is the hub of most roads/travel.

The Lonely Planet guide is pretty good, but make sure you get the latest one.

It is not necessary to speak Spanish fluently in San Jose. In fact, depending on where you go, you could probably survive with no spanish and persistent pointing and sign language.

However, that changes outside San Jose and away from the busy/gringo areas in San Jose.

It still will not be neccessary to be fluent, but some spanish will be neccessary. At the least take selection of Phrase Books.

Hostels are cheap and plenty, and usually reasonable places to stay. Always ask to see the room/facilities before actually checking in. Always be sure you had a good grip of the total cost and what is/is not included.

I don\'t have an issue with the water, but it may upset your stomach simply because its different. If in doubt drink bottled water. But don\'t get paranoid about it.

Do not give money to beggars. Do not \"lend\" money to people claiming to have just been robbed (especially Gringos, since that is fairly common).

Don\'t flash loads of cash/jewellry/credit cards.

Do barter if you\'re in a market, and sometimes if you\'re in a shop - depending on the type.

Beware that finding somewhere in San Jose with merely an address is somewhere between a nightmare and impossible. So Lonely Planet street plans are invaluable. And failing that, you need directions which depend on landmarks not street names (which most streets don\'t have).

Watch the meters in taxis - switched on, at zero, etc.

Do keep your passport, tickets, etc. somewhere safe. And do split up your money into different pockets/places.

Don\'t fight to defend your money, its not worth it.

Although don\'t get me wrong, SJ specifically and CR in general are reasonably safe places. Just don\'t be foolish and start from the position of not trusting people.

Organised tours from SJ out to Aranal, Cloud Frests and the like tend to be cheap, very worthwhile, but typically quite long days. And other than at Aranal, opportunities to purchase food/drink can be few and far between.

Aranal is best seen at night. There is a bar, restaurant, and swimming pool there. Together with the opportunity to be in the hot streams fed from the volcanic activity which is all pretty special.

Buses are typically badly signed, but cheap and safe methods of transport. They do, however, take for ever. When going far then look out for night (or extremely early) buses.

If you rent a car, then be careful. Shop around, make sure you know the costs (espeically extra per Km charges), make sure you have all the documents, and make sure that the car all works. If you drive, then drive assuming that around every blind corner is a raging nutter coming at you on your side of the road. There usually is, and if there isn\'t then it will be someone trying to overtake you and failing that some stray animal will wander out in front of you.

Tours are normally done for a few people and in minibuses. From SJ they usually have a guide with at least some level of english.

SJ Airport is total chaos and not in a great part of town. Make sure you know how you\'re getting from there to the first place you\'re staying.

Immigration is a nightmare of chaos and time.

Bear in mind that I last worked there about 4 - 5 years ago so its difficult to know how much it may or may not have changed.

It rains, a lot. Its humid. When its hot, its very hot, so be careful you drink sufficient water and especially careful if you are fair-skinned.

If you\'re out in the wilds, be careful walking close to water, tehre are often crocodiles (or could be aligators, I never know the difference).

Treat the police with care. They are basically ok, but do what you\'re told and don\'t mess them about.

Don\'t judge bars by their covers. Typically the tatty bars are more fun and inhabited by more friendly people than the flash touristy ones.

Wildlife is great. Birds, Sloths, crocodiles (or was it aligators) Monkeys and all that sort of stuff.

If you want wild party nights, stay in SJ or go to the beach.


That\'s about all that springs to mind. Ask if you can think of anything else.
Costa Rica - Random thoughts. - Ppaul
Wow!

Thank you for all the info.

Paul
Costa Rica - Random thoughts. - Mark (RLBS)
oh, and by the way, buy a phone card. You can get them at the airport, and you're probably as well to get a cheap one while you're there.

More usually they are better bought at the little newsagent type shops in town.

You pay a number of pesos, to denomiation you choose, and then can use them at any phone to get vastly cheaper minute rates. You simply dial via a number given to you on the card.

And lastly send all your postcards on the first day. You'll probably still get back before them.
Costa Rica - Random thoughts. - Altea Ego
Gators have pointed noses, crocs have rounded noses. Not sure you would notice when it has you by the throat. In that part of the world you can have both trying for you.
Costa Rica - Random thoughts. - Mark (RLBS)
If that's the only difference, then I'm sure I'll never learn the difference.

I got closer than I should have done to a crocodile (or alligator) only once in my life, and I have no intention to repeat the mistake.

All I can say is it looked like a log half-buried in mud and thank god I stopped to light a cigarette about 6 ft before I trod on it.
Costa Rica - Random thoughts. - No Do$h
I stand to be corrected on this one, but it\'s crocs in Africa and Australia and Alligators in South/Central/North America.

Yeah, there are other subdivisions to consider (cayman and those funny snouty ones in India that begin with a \"G\") but ask yourself this; does it matter what it\'s called if it\'s just taken your leg off?
Costa Rica - Random thoughts. - Altea Ego
trust me - you get crocs as well in central/south america.
Costa Rica - Random thoughts. - Nsar
I can't top that wealth of info, but just a handy thought if you're going out at night somewhere you might get turned over (San Jose, Rochdale etc) is to pack a couple of expired credit cards in your wallet and put your real ones somewhere safe and to have just enough cash in your wallet to make it a worthwhile steal, not your whole stash or just coppers. A mugger is unlikely to check the expiry date
Costa Rica - Random thoughts. - Mark (RLBS)
A good idea. In fact, my wallet used to have a credit card in it which had already been reported as stolen - it was never used, but I wouldn\'t have wanted to be the mugger who tried.

Another point to be aware of; there are gringo prices and local prices. If you\'re in a market, especially a craft market, then always barter. And do not be afraid to walk away, you\'ll probably find the identical item for sale 10 yards down the way.

On the other hand, you may really want the item. Decide what *you* are happy to pay for it, negotiate to that, and then walk away knowing that you are happy with your bargain, and don\'t worry too much whether or not someone else would have got it cheaper. Bargain cheerfully and politely. You will do much better if you don\'t offend.

If you do go on tours, then some of them stop at craft shops, restaurant/cafe type places, and the like along the way.

This is not a coincidence, it is arranged. No particular problem except that the place you have been taken to is almost certainly charging tourist prices. Given that things are generally cheap anyway, that may not bother you, but you should always be aware of these things.

In fact \"Be Aware\" is the best advice you can get. It is better to be aware of your surroundings, aware of what is going on, and aware of who is behind you/following you, whatever.

I don\'t know how long you are going for, but I would strongly recommend that wherever you are staying for at least the first night is pre-booked. It is fine to wander around the next day when you are not tired, you\'re getting used to the place and you\'re not carrying luggage, looking for somewhere cheaper/better/more convenient to move to. But you don\'t want to be trying to do that when you have first arrived in the country.

I would suggest that the first two or three days of your holiday should be in one place - either SJ or at the beach. You\'ll enjoy things a lot more if you spend a day or two getting acclimatised and into the swing of things before you go running all over the country.

SJ is significantly more expensive than the rest of the country, but I still recommend a couple of days there first. If you intend to buy stuff, then do it when you come back to SJ prior to leaving. Firstly you don\'t want to carry stuff everywhere with you, and secondly you\'ll almost certainly see it better/cheaper out of the city.

I recommend you have a look here..

www.arenal.net/

Which should show you why I recommend Arenal - and it is (or was when I was last there) actually erupting most of the time.

Finally I think this is pretty useful...

www.bootsnall.com/hostels/ca/cr/sj/

And unless I think of something else, that\'s all I have to say about that.
dysons? - Imagos
was going to replace old hoover with a dyson but after reading this a bit put off now tinyurl.com/2atdv

are they any good? worth buying or no?
dysons? - Stargazer {P}
Having two cats we decided to try one, like it says on the box, keeps picking up cat fur without clogging up the bag.

Performance is great, reliability is another issue. Ours is 4 years old and had to be repaired once within the warranty period. It was collected and returned fixed within a week. Otherwise no problems. Some models have problems with the power switch.

I see that other manufacturers now provide similar bagless cyclonic technology, might be worth looking at their waranty and technical support as well.

cheers

Ian L.

dysons? - patpending
i know someone with a dyson, after years of electrolux, panasonics and hoovers it really seems to be better, picks up twice as much!

this was a british made model, I suppose that the malaysian made ones are as good. haven't tried a recent british made competitor.

drawbacks:

1 - colours are Roobarb and Custard

2 - using it you look like ghostbusters or the beastie boys from "intergalactic planetary"

pat
dysons? - nick
I've had a Dyson DC01 for about 5 years now and had two faults. After 3 years the lead failed where it goes into the machine. Fixed it myself by cutting the lead and re-attaching. Fault 2 was a broken wheel. Rang the helpline and received 2 new wheels 2 days later at a cost of £5.
Would I buy another? Yes because it really does the job better then a bag cleaner. I can't comment on other cyclone-type cleaners but I wouldn't buy a Hoover as they ripped off Dyson's design in the USA (allegedly) after he initially offered the idea to them.
dysons? - smokie
I don't know how you measure that a Dyson does the job better. I had a Dyson for some years and was deeply impressed with the volume of dust it picked up each week in the clear plastic container. I assumed it must be collecting more. But week after week it was doing that...

It broke, and was replaced with a top-end Electrolux, also with a clear container. That too picks up dust, week after week.

Not sure I could distinguish which was best...
dysons? - henry k
I have not tried a Dyson other than in a store.
I thought it very bulky and brash.
I am happy with a Sebo. I will not repeat what my local repairer says re the Dysons all ligned up for repairs. Re my Sebo, they said, approx £70 if you did happen to need a new motor but it would be well worth the cost to fix it. It certainly does seem very well designed and put together.
dysons? - Dynamic Dave
There were a couple of comments made on Dyson's in an earlier IHAQ thread. Scroll down to the latter part of the thread until you find "High speed suck-out"

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=19946

dysons? - Pugugly {P}
SWMBO bought an Electrolux Cyclonic thingy last year after painstaking research on the web. Got it cheap in local retailer 'cos it was ex-display and had a scratch. She researched through Which prior to purchase and this one came up as best buy.

Living in a house where any number of dumb animals (mainly canine) take refuge it has proved highly efficient in cleaning their fall out. The only drawback it is extraordinarily noisy, so much so that the Springer and I take refuge in the nether regions of PU towers when its in use. The machine has been totally reliable in 12 months of heavy use and survived mortal combat with the Springer when we foolishly left them alone together. Model no is Z5740, checked out where it was made and it is the USA which explains the barndoor engineering and slgihtly Slavador Dali looks.
dysons? - Pugugly {P}
Oh Well - I was caught examining it for its details, this has been mistaken by SWMBO as an unhealthy interest in the infernal device, guess I will have to learn to use it - pass me Bose noise reducing headphones...
dysons? - Civic8
Bought the DC01 just after release.Still got it.best hoover we ever had.microfilters arent cheap but worth getting I think best machine around
dysons? - carl_a
Sanyo make great bagless vacuums, they do look at bit weird but they have some of the best suction power and will last a lot longer that a Dyson or Hoover. They cost about half as much, but not many places stock them.
dysons? - terryb
We've had a DC04 for about 5 years now. Wonderful machine, even sucked the (now powdered) foam backing through our old dining room carpet. Not a hint of trouble until last week when SWMBO pickup up something she shouldn't with it. It rattled around for a bit sounding like a bearing was going. She phoned the helpline who were very ,er, helpful and advised wait and see, it could avoid their £50 call-out. Sure enough it cleared eventually and normal service has been resumed.
--
Terry

"Just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand"
dysons? - Mapmaker
Having had a Hoover cyclone upright, and then a Dyson cyclone upright, I think the Dyson picks up more dust. Mother had a carpet she could never get looking clean, until the Dyson.

Beware, though. They are real carpet eaters. Don't use them on nice oriental carpets. They have a spinning brush on the cylinder ones (which is the bit that does the job of getting dust out of the carpet, (rather than the cyclone (which gets the dust out of the air before returning the air to the room))) and the brush acts like a carpet beater, so it is very hard on nice carpets. More expensive upright Dysons come with complete 'gentle action' accessories (a hose like a cylinder vac has) to avoid carpet damage.

Uprights pick more dust up than cylinder vacs, owing to the revolving 'beating' brush.

For my preference, Dysons are very well designed. There are storage places for all the tools, the flex coils up neatly. The hose is extra long. The cylinders have a brilliant 'sit on the stairs without falling down' feature, iirc.
dysons? - Malcolm_L
Mapmaker,
Agree with you on design - I've had problems with my old DC01 but due to the design I've found it easy to disassemble and put right.

Considering it's been through 3 house restores and coped with anything that can get through the nozzle and it still works, I'm seriously impressed.

What I liked best was that when I finally broke the dust collector, the repair guy replaced the collector and a couple of other bits for £55.
Dyson do two standard services:
Standard parts and labour £55 (DC01)
Motor parts and labour £79 (DC01)

I spoke to him and basically they'll replace every part they need to get it working - good value for money imho.
dysons? - El Hacko
had 2 Dysons for many moons (one upright, one cylinder) - they are mainly reliable, but wouldn't buy another cos the make is so heavy, noisy and clumsy to use.
dysons? - Dynamic Dave
I can only conclude from this thread that we have a lot of henpecked househusbands in this forum ;o)

dysons? - terryb
DD
You obviously haven't got in touch with your feminine side recently :o)
--
Terry

"Just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand"
dysons? - Malcolm_L
If his missus sees his remark, the feminine side won't be in touch with him either ;o))
dysons? - El Hacko
suckers of the world unite?
dysons? - SpamCan61 {P}
This has been discussed elsewhere on the web recently; and the concensus seems to be that original DC01/02 dysons will go on forever ( mine has done 7 years plus) ; but recent ones are somewhat 'variable' in build quality & reliability.

There was a 'Which!' report recently which I haven't read; but from the summaries I've seen on the web the recent dyson cleaners didn't come out particularly well.
dysons? - Malcolm_L
Haven't Dyson relocated their manufacturing base to Eastern Europe?
I wonder if this ties in with the variable build quality on the recent models, the original Dysons weren't cheap but after 8 years I believed it's was worth every penny.

I bought my parents a DC07 and they think it's the bees knees, no reliability problems there (mind you it couldn't have been any more unreliable than their 10 year Hotpoint).
dysons? - Onetap
Dysons? I've had a DC01 for 5 or 6 years.
OK, but;
1) the original Dyson flex cable was junk, the conductors kept on breaking. I replaced it with a different flex and the problem was solved. I later fitted the flex from a later model dead Dyson and have had no problems with that.
2) The switch failed, replaced with one from the dead Dyson.
3) It is prone to block. The kids vacuum up bits of paper or sweet wrappers and it stops working. I have to remove 3 screws on the bottom to clear it. A messy job, to be done outside.

Also, although the bagless design has advantages, when you empty it, the dust can go everywhere. I empty mine in the garden (2 kids with asthma) and I stand upwind of the bin bag. If I were doing this task at work, the Safety Officer would have me wearing a respirator, gloves & overalls (seriously). I suppose every bagless cleaner would have this problem, not just JD's.

Overall though, I still like it though; it still goes after 6 years. I notice a lot of them on the local dump, or is it that they stand out more?
dysons? - henry k
>>>> 3) It is prone to block. The kids vacuum up bits
of paper or sweet wrappers and it stops working. I have
to remove 3 screws on the bottom to clear it. A
messy job, to be done outside.
Also, although the bagless design has advantages, when you empty it,
the dust can go everywhere. I empty mine in the garden
(2 kids with asthma) and I stand upwind of the bin
bag. If I were doing this task at work, the Safety
Officer would have me wearing a respirator, gloves & overalls (seriously).
I suppose every bagless cleaner would have this problem.

These are two of the reasons I got a Sebo.
It is very easy to access all parts if it ever blocks.
The brush is easily removed which is great as it winds up the long hair my daughter manages to deposit.
Each bag is supplied with a dust cap to pop on before the bag is removed so no mess.
All this without the need of any tools or mess.
It is also quiet and auto adjusts for carpet / lino /tiles.
Mine is a quiet two tone grey and does not shout when it is about. I do still have to wind up the cable manually.
Oh well back to the chores.
dysons? - Imagos
The general opinion is that dyson are a bit like Ford either you love 'em or hate 'em , was seriouly considering one in next few months as my one has reached the throwing in skip phase (hoover with bag) it's a bit old possibly 20 years and looking very battered. i've had it so long it's hard to let go though. Was a hand me down and doesn't suck like it used to, will look at other makes now, a bit disapointed as i thought Dysons were the one to own. they seem to have a reliability issue. Would it last 20 years? probably not on posts i've read. (like a mercedes they don't make them like they used to!)

thanks for input guys.
dysons? - Welliesorter
I've had a Dyson DC04 for several years but as I'm a single male with no pets I can't claim it's been tested to its limits...

It works well, although I can't help thinking that the appeal of Dyson and imitators is that you see the dust going in and therefore think it's doing a good job.
dysons? - Vin {P}
I bought a DC04 for the wife for Christmas a few years ago (in a sort of post-ironic way, additional to other presents).

As we had people coming for Christmas, she had given the house a damned good clean out. Despite this, the amount of dirt that came up when I ran the Dyson over the carpet in the dining room was utterly astounding; dirt container was filled to the brim, and it's not a big room.

That was a good comparison to a bag cleaner; don't know how it compares to another cyclone type.

Reliability: four years and no problems yet.

V
Praha - thanks! - Martin Wall
Just a note of thanks to those who provided info to me on Prague in a previous thread. The trip went well - what a beautiful city. I was only there for a few days and I'm already planning a return visit. I think I might go for a week next time and rent an apartment rather than staying in a hotel. I would seriously consider moving there if I could - I liked it that much.

I was a bit worried about stag parties ruining the place but they seemed to restrict their nocturnal activities to the seedy bars just off Wenceslas Square and so can be easily avoided.

Anyway, thanks again. If you haven't been and you get the chance I thoroughly recommend it. Great scenery, friendly people, nice food and drink.

I was lucky in that I happened to be there for the EU celebrations last weekend - fantastic firework display at midnight last Friday.

Right, a google search for IT jobs in Praha is in order I think....

Anybody got any experience of working there? Is this viable or is there lots of red tape? Any good sites that you know of?
Praha - thanks! - NVH
Martin- looks like our visits overlapped.
Great atmosphere and VFM.
but...I know there used to be lots of skilled IT workers who are often multilingual, so competition would be stiff and wages a lot lower than the UK !!
I expect you saw the sightseeing tours in vintage Skodas and Fragas (?); and this week's film production was Maigret - complete with a a dozen 50s vehicles on Paris 75 French plates. Quite a surprise.


Praha - thanks! - Martin Wall
so competition would be stiff and wages a lot lower than the UK !!


:-(

Yeah - I saw how low wages were when I was out there - it's the sort of place where (within reason!) I'd be happy to take a wage cut to live - for a little while anyway....
Bottled gas - L'escargot
Not having got mains gas here in rural Lincolnshire, we use bottled gas for cooking. The question (well, two questions really) is ~ how many cubic metres of gas (measured at whatever mains gas is measured at in a domestic meter) are there in a 47kg bottle and what is the calorific value of the gas?
--
L'escargot by name, but not by nature.
Bottled gas - L'escargot
measured at whatever
mains gas is measured at



I meant to say "measured at whatever pressure mains gas is measured at........"
--
L'escargot by name, but not by nature.
Bottled gas - Dalglish
gas calorific values :

you could ask google uk

or

www.dti.gov.uk/energy/contacts/index.shtml
Calorific values Clive Sarjantson clive.sarjantson@dti.gsi.gov.uk
Bottled gas - Robin
We too do not have mains gas up here in rural North Yorks. and are thinkng about converting the electric hob to a gas one. Trying to use a wok on an electric stove is a non-starter. Do you find you get satisfactory results using bottled gas? Are hobs for bottled gas easy to find and are they pricey?

As for your question:
Natrural Gas - 1000 B.T.U's/ Cubic foot
Propane 2500 B.T.U's/ Cubic foot
Butane 3200 B.T.U's/ Cubic foot.

Bottled gas - Mapmaker
(virtually?) Every gas stove in Comet will have an option for conversion to LPG. It tends to cost up to £100 for the conversion bit.

Give up the wok, and use a sturdy flat bottomed frying pan... much cheaper than a new cooker.

Bottled gas is about as good as ordinary gas. If you keep it outside it can be sluggish in cold weather as it is less volatile than methane (natural gas). It it usually a mixture of propane & butane. A kettle of hot water poured over the cylinder is usually enough to get it going. Fine if you have electricity, not so good if the kettle is powered by the gas...

Bottled gas - L'escargot
We too do not have mains gas up here in rural
North Yorks. and are thinkng about converting the electric hob to
a gas one.


I wouldn't have a gas hob (or oven) from choice. Give me electric any day. Burning gas produces a lot of condensation and the kitchen always seems to get a lot dirtier and needs redecorating more often. The reason we have a gas hob is that it was here when we moved in, and converting it to electricity would be a fairly major operation. Factors involved would be (a)new hob,(b)installation of electrical wiring to the hob, which would entail disturbing the fitted units and worktop(s) and (c) the necessary rectification of the wall tiling after (b). This would probably mean re-tiling all of the areas presently tiled because I doubt whether we could find new tiles to match.
In your situation, I personally would stick with the electric hob. To use bottled gas you either need a large tank which can be recharged before it becomes empty or (like us) you have a two-bottle system which automatically changes from the empty bottle to the full bottle ~ and we haven't been here long enough to find out whether this feature works yet!

--
L'escargot by name, but not by nature.
Bottled gas - Altea Ego
Ah, as a man who likes to cook (sure you wont come for dinner ND?) I much prefer a gas hob. A lot more responsive and controlable I feel,Most chefs feel the same. Dont have any problem with condensation. Had a gas leak tho!

The oven? now thats different - electric every time. (pour mois)
Bottled gas - Mapmaker
Electric fan oven every time. A halogen electric hob is almost as responsive as a gas hob, and I get slightly paranoid about carbon monoxide in a small kitchen with no windows when all 4 rings are burning brightly with a dinner party for 18.
Freeview boxes - Robin
We are thinking about getting a Freeview box so we can enter the wonderful world of digital TV. Not interested in Sky as our TV watching does not justify the expense. Freeview boxes start at £50 or so and go upto over £200. What would the difference be between a 50 quid box and a 100 quid one? A bloke in a shop I went into said it was all about the speed of the decoding and how quickly you could change channels - upto 15 seconds for the cheapie box. But then, the cheapest in his shop was £98 so he would say that. Is this correct?
Freeview boxes - carl_a
Freeview boxes all do the same job, doesn\'t matter if they are £50 or £100. Some have more scart sockets than others and some output by rf as well. Its got nothing to do with speed of decoding or how quick the channels change over.

My personal recommendation is a setpal (made by Daewoo,labgear, triax, Dijam, or novapal) box because it can pick up bad signals better than the others & the interface is really nice. There is a web site where all this stuff is talked about www.digitalspy.co.uk (go to the forums).
Freeview boxes - SpamCan61 {P}
Another useful Freeview link here :- www.consumerdeals.co.uk/freeview.html . Personally I see little point in spending more than 50-60 quid on a Freeview box these days.
Freeview boxes - Altea Ego
Try and get one with a stereo audio output. Much digital radio on Freeview that is nice to run throu the Hi Fi.
Freeview boxes - Mapmaker
£39 from Richer sounds.
Freeview boxes - Martin Wall
If you are interested in a limited form of Pay TV ( www.topuptv.com ) then it may be worth waiting until they start making new boxes that can accept smartcards.

Otherwise the Goodmans GDB3 (I think) was the budget box recommended by Which? - Richer Sounds has some good deals on it.
Best way to compost grass - L'escargot
Having got above-average size lawns, the majority of stuff that goes into my compost bunker is grass. I've never had any success with producing compost, as the grass just turns all slimy. I've just started using Garotta Liquid Compost Maker ~ pardon the pun but is this the solution to the problem or is there a better solution?
--
L'escargot by name, but not by nature.
Best way to compost grass - Altea Ego
to make good compost, you need something to make it in. Ready made bin, or something wooden with lots of ventilation. Pallets knocked togther make a good compost bin. However it needs a lid to keep it dryish. Suspect yours is getting too wet.

You also need something to start it off. You can buy the starter but the original gardeners used to errrrrrrrrr "take a leak" in it to start it off.
Best way to compost grass - NowWheels
to make good compost, you need something to make it in.
Ready made bin, or something wooden with lots of ventilation. Pallets
knocked togther make a good compost bin. However it needs a
lid to keep it dryish. Suspect yours is getting too wet.


My compost bin is 4 old pallets tied together with rope, lined with hardboard for most of each side, so that it gets some ventilation but not too much. The lid is simply an old fetiliser sack weighted down with wood and stones.

To make compost effectively, you need to keep it aerated, so its best if turned every few months. Hard work -- definitely one of those jobs where it's useful to have a man around.

Also, grass on its own aint good for making compost. Youy really need a mixture of material -- hedge-clippngs, kitchen waste, etc
You also need something to start it off. You can buy
the starter but the original gardeners used to errrrrrrrrr "take a
leak" in it to start it off.


"Recycled beer and cider", as one of the Gardeners Question Time ppl used to put it :)

That's another composting job done more effectively by a man! Not just cos of the plumbing arrangements, but experiments suggest that women do not produce such effective compost activator. Don't ask me why, but try your own experiments if you want to verify the result
Best way to compost grass - Altea Ego
Leaves. They are good mixed in.
Best way to compost grass - NowWheels
Leaves. They are good mixed in.


the usual advice in not to include leaves, cos the decay a different way to other stuff (leaf mould). But whatever works -- I find gardening most fun when you break the rules!
Best way to compost grass - Mapmaker
All grass in a compost heap is a recipe (literally!) for disaster as it all goes slimy.

When I last used garotta, it suggested interleaving the grass with newspaper, which used to work for me. If you can spare some soil for a layer as well, then that will help (bringing in all sorts of grubs & bugs).

Result is lots & lots of lovely compost.
Best way to compost grass - No Do$h
I\'m cheating by posting this after Dave has closed the thread, but if you can\'t abuse your Mod powers....

Agree wholeheartedly with Mapmaker. Newspaper and/or cardboard* shredded and mixed with your grass in equal amounts will bulk it up nicely. The soil will not only bring in bugs, it will also act as a compost starter, saving money on the garotta.

With grass even a relatively thin layer can become compacted, damp and smelly. The secret is to ensure that you mix your grass cuttings in well with the other ingredients so you don\'t get clumps of putrescent grey/green mush.

One highly effective method for rapid composting is to use a rotating compost bin. These tumble and mix the contents and if done daily can give you usable compost in as little as 4-6 weeks. You can make one cheaply enough by getting your hands on an old, throughly cleaned plastic chemical barrel. Drill some reasonable sized holes all over (20mm or so), nip the top off, half fill with your chosen materials, rope the top back on and roll up and down your garden a couple of times before standing it upright again. Repeat every day for a week and then tip out into the main heap before refilling the drum with new material.

FWIW, I currently have 4 heaps on the go, the main one being 6foot high with a base measuring 10\' x 8\'. It contains a lot of woody waste from when I had some poplars topped out, mixed with equal amounts of grass and leaves. It\'s been sat there for 8 months, quietly roasting under a couple of old duvets. It gets turned every 6 weeks or so.... Trust me, it takes a lot of turning!

(* no shiny print on the cardboard, it usually contains various unpleasant chemicals and metals)