Hi all,
I'm after some help / advice....
I have a Peugeot 106 XND which has a problem starting.
The car will usually start first time but is really flat. If I rev the engine just after I have started the car it can take at least 5 seconds to respond then sends loads of smoke from the exhaust. After a couple of revs the car is fine or if I drive it straight away it seems to slightly judder for a hundred yards but is then ok. If I turn off the engine and restart it there is no problem, it mainly happens after being left overnight or longer.
Has anyone else had this experience or know what is wrong.
All help appreciated
Edited by Pugugly on 05/04/2008 at 11:19
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Glowplugs or controller faulty. If glowplugs, fit only Beru available from GSF. H@lfords are especially useless for glowplugs (but excellent value for the deep 10mm socket you will need to get them out).
659.
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Sounds like head gasket
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"Usually starts first time" to me rules out the glowplugs and steers me towards the head gasket route. The engine in this car is known for HG issues.
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If this is a late 106D with the TUD5 iron block 1.5 litre engine, it's unlikely to be the head gasket. This engine is a good starter and will usually struggle into life without glowplugs. I would not consider disturbing the cylinder head without a thorough check of the pre-heating system first. The earlier Al block engines were indeed more prone to gasket failure.
659.
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Cheers 659,
its a late '93 1400 XND.
What can I do to check the preheating system? The coil light on the dash does seem to be staying on longer than usual.
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It is a pity your 106 has the 1.4 litre engine which is all aluminium, and more prone to head gasket failure than is the later 1.5 iron engine. However, I would stand by my comments concerning the pre-heat system and test first as follows.
Disconnect all wiring from glowplugs and insulate the end of the lead from the controller. This is important. With everything switched off, using a 0-50A ammeter, connect each glowplug in turn to battery positive, and note the current, both at the moment of connection and after 7 seconds or so. A good glowplug will draw about 30A initially, and will then stabilise at about 10A. An old car type ammeter is fine for this job. Beware short circuits. Although this is not an exhaustive test, it will find 90% of faulty plugs without removing them and doing a visual energised test.
To test the controller, restore all connections, and wire a voltmeter across the plugs. At the pre-heat position, there should be about 11V across the plugs. Ignore the warning lamp for now. Start the engine after a 6 second pre heat. The plugs should then remain energised with the cold engine running, with about 13V across them. I can give you further checks for the timers.
The socket size I mentioned for the glowplugs is correct for the TUD5 engine. Earlier engines generally use bigger plugs, sockets available from the same source.
659.
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The method I used for testing glowplugs on my wife's 106 Diesiel 1400 was much simpler.
Remove all.
Run wire from earth to screw on section and attach. Hold plug in pliers (it will get hot). Attach another wire to earth (you must disconnect battery from car first!). and touch other end of this wire to plug body for 1-2 seconds. If it glows alive, if not dead.
Be careful with where wires go and use insulated pliers and gloves.
My wife's started well with 3 plugs but refused to run cleanly for a while. With 2 plugs it was a pig to start. Halfords cheap plugs seem ok (I know others say carp but still strong after 3 years)...
madf
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My method avoids removing the plugs.
659.
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It's the plugs. I've got the same problem with mine. If that doesn't work email me /ashley55522 at gmail.com/ and I'll ask a mate to see what he thinks.
No need to use text type talks you have unlimited space to enter text
Edited by Pugugly on 05/04/2008 at 11:16
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