What is life like with your car? Let us know and win £500 in John Lewis vouchers | No thanks
DIY scratch repair problem - novice_on_cars
hi all,
I bought this halfords stone chip and scratch repair system to try and repair this egg shell impact, but i think i put too much primer on and not sure what to use to remove it without scratching the surrounding bodypaint.

kind of made a small problem into a bigger problem, so any advice would be grateful.

I read that very fine sandpaper could work and a fine artish brush to apply the primer and paint, is that ok?


another seperate question is this product i saw on QVC called pilot green which is a big magnet you stick on you fuel pipe and claim to increase performance and save petrol etc. any truth to that?

Thank in advance for any help
DIY scratch repair problem - Aprilia
hi all,
another seperate question is this product i saw on QVC called
pilot green which is a big magnet you stick on you
fuel pipe and claim to increase performance and save petrol etc.
any truth to that?


I always carry an old loudspeaker magnet in my trouser pocket - works wonders!
DIY scratch repair problem - Blue {P}
I can;t help with the body repairs question I'm afraid, but I can say that the magnetic fuel pipe thing is a load of rubbish.

If something that cheap could do what it claimed then all the manufacturers would use it.

Blue
DIY scratch repair problem - bernie
Easy peasy,get some T-Cut and apply with soft cloth.
Because the primer will be soft compared to the paint it will take off the excess.

Also use the same method when you paint it(after it has dried of course) and it will help blend the touch-up into the rest !
DIY scratch repair problem - novice_on_cars
Thanks,

so the T-cut acts like a abbrasive? and should i use the halfords kit or is there something better to touch it up?
DIY scratch repair problem - bernie
Yes,the T-Cut will remove the primer by virtue of its very fine abrasive qualities and provide a smooth finish as well.

Halford stuff works fine,but if it's a melalic finish you will probably need a basecoat and clear laquer and the finished article may not be as good as a solid colour repair.

Either way T-Cut has been used by the trade for removing "dead" paint on cars for donkeys years/
DIY scratch repair problem - flatfour
If you haven't any T cut, try Brasso i've used it for years, faster than Tcut, same result then polish up after, always gets rid of spray mist, be careful as you can soon get down to primer.
DIY scratch repair problem - king arthur
If he hasn't any T-cut, what are the chances he'll have some Brasso?
DIY scratch repair problem - Hugo {P}
If he hasn't any T-cut, what are the chances he'll have
some Brasso?


Plenty, if he's an antique dealer!

H
DIY scratch repair problem - novice_on_cars
Don't have either :/
i will be buying some t-cut on monday at halfords and yes it's a Ford Java blue metallic.

kind of unlucky a egg shell hit my car :(
DIY scratch repair problem - v0n
another seperate question is this product i saw on QVC called pilot green which is a big magnet you stick on you fuel pipe and claim to increase performance and save petrol etc. any truth to that?

There were many similar snake oil products before QVC joined the bandwagon, some were even successfully prosecuted -
www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/11/gadget.htm .
DIY scratch repair problem - novice_on_cars
bought the T-cut matallic,that didn't help much in removing the primmer so i got grit 800 sandpaper that kind of worked but too slow so got grit 180 sandpaper

sanded until it was level and used grit 800.

now do i need a higher grit to smooth it? and how should i apply paint to an area of about 2cm in diametor? spray on or brush on?

DIY scratch repair problem - Mondaywoe
I see you mention 'sandpaper'. I hope you mean 'wet & dry' - used wet. You'll find that 'wet & dry' used with warm soapy water works well.

Covering an area of that size 'inconspicuously' might be difficult. If it's in a place that's not too obvious, you might get away with brush painting followed by flatting and polishing, but if it's somewhere obvious you might need to 'blow it in' a bit. You might find that tearing a hole in the middle of a sheet of newspaper - lining it up with the repair and spraying through the hole - might work. Work with short gentle bursts of the aerosol building up light coats. Wait for each to dry and check progress.

Once the whole thing is suitably covered it might be ok if you just blend in with T Cut - but if there is much difference you might want to be brave and try a swift flick over the general area with 'wider' masking to blend everything in.

I never spray over masking tape unless I really want a sharp break. It's usually better to tape some newspaper 'further away' and maybe leave a torn edge to the paper where the blending in comes.

It's all pretty hit and miss, I'm afraid! You might be lucky and get a very reasonable job first time or you might go a bit too far and ruin the lot! Be patient - build coats up slowly. I like Brasso to finish up with too - usually the following day.

Good luck!

Graeme
DIY scratch repair problem - novice_on_cars
what do you mean by "flatting"?

also it's metallic so how many layer of lacquer i need?

i have an idea of rubbing the paint into the scratches with a cloth or is that a bad idea?
DIY scratch repair problem - Mondaywoe
Sorry - 'flatting' just really means rubbing flat!
I wouldn't worry too much about lacquer over such a small area. If you get a respectable finish with paint alone, I'd tend to give it a good coat of polish and forget about the lacquer. It's all too easy to land up with a 'toffee apple'! I often get jobs about 90% to my satisfaction then land up having one last go with the aerosol or T Cut - and destroying the lot! Quit while you're ahead!

I think rubbing paint in with a cloth might cause problems, although I see where you're coming from. You'll probably find it will dry on the surrounding paintwork and be difficult to shift or even lift some of the surrounding paint. A very fine artist's brush sometimes works (get a cheap set from Woolies!). If need be, spray some paint into the aerosol lid - maybe even add a spot of paint thinner to produce a very thin mixture. Then gently touch in with a few coats, allowing it to dry between coats.Finally rub down with T Cut.

I realise we're into 'technical' territory here. Maybe the thread should be moved. I appreciate what it's like when you try this sort of thing for the first time, and hope some of this helps in some small way.

We all have to learn. I remember when I was (very) young and green, I once tried filling a hole in a sill of a Hillman Minx with Polyfilla. At first it looked beautiful. An hour later the dampness caused rusty streaks to bleed through! Aargh!

If you think that's bad, I knew an elderly neighbour who had an even easier (and surprisingly effective!) answer to rust holes on his Triumph Herald. He stuck Fablon over them and painted over! No MOTS in those days, otherwise a poke with a screwdriver might have had devastating consequences!

You do learn, though. I fitted new wheel arch panels to a Clio a few weeks ago, filled them (not Polyfilla this time!) and resprayed. They're not perfect, but you would have to have the repair pointed out to you to notice, so I'm reasonably happy.

Have I just brought the thread back to 'Discussion' with that aside?

Graeme
DIY scratch repair problem - novice_on_cars
Sorry - 'flatting' just really means rubbing flat!
I wouldn't worry too much about lacquer over such a small
area. If you get a respectable finish with paint alone, I'd
tend to give it a good coat of polish and forget
about the lacquer. It's all too easy to land up with
a 'toffee apple'! I often get jobs about 90% to my
satisfaction then land up having one last go with the aerosol
or T Cut - and destroying the lot! Quit while you're
ahead!
I think rubbing paint in with a cloth might cause problems,
although I see where you're coming from. You'll probably find it
will dry on the surrounding paintwork and be difficult to shift
or even lift some of the surrounding paint. A very fine
artist's brush sometimes works (get a cheap set from Woolies!). If
need be, spray some paint into the aerosol lid - maybe
even add a spot of paint thinner to produce a very
thin mixture. Then gently touch in with a few coats, allowing
it to dry between coats.Finally rub down with T Cut.


Thanks for the tip, but already done it before i got this message. it was my first time and thank god i done it right this time.

1.Used 1500 grit sand paper around the area and then t-cut to clean.

2.newspaper around the area

3.lightly spray metallic paint and wait to dry (same colour :)

4.Used ALOT of T-cut and rub so hard and repeat

used abit of lacquer and your right not much difference with it so i might skip that part on the next scratches.

Now i need to fix an area where i sanded too hard and have to layer on the paint until flush.

After all this my next job is that scuff on the front bumper!!!

thanks again for all the help
looking for 2000 grit blocks - novice_on_cars
B&Q don't sell them and alot of broken links on the net :(,

which online shop you people buy them from. or any shops in leicester?
looking for 2000 grit blocks - matt35 {P}
Novice,
Go to Google - type in 2000 grit blocks - there are 9980 answers - pick the most convenient for you.
Matt35.
looking for 2000 grit blocks - John R @ Work {P}
Ahhh! and I thought he wanted 2000, Grit Blocks not 2000 grit blocks...

Oh Well, He might ask for Fork Handles (four candles) as well.

John R
looking for 2000 grit blocks - J Bonington Jagworth
That's pretty fine. About the same as T-cut, I imagine...
looking for 2000 grit blocks - novice_on_cars
Found 1500 at halfords instead and seems to do the job
Car paint question - novice_on_cars
i'd spray and lightly sanded several layers on my car and want to know after it's dried after 24hours, should i use t-cut and rub the excess paint or sand using 1500grit very very slowly until it's flush with the body work?

Car paint question - pastyman
instead of using t-cut, try a proper cutting compound, but this would normally be used after a week to allow the paint to go off properly.

Pastyman
Car paint question - Sooty Tailpipes
Is this aerosol paint? If so, you will find its very delicate, so be careful!
I would wait over a week before touching it.
It depends on the finish what refinishing needs to be done, if the finish is a bit uneven or has runs, you will need 1500 wet and dry on a block, soak the wet and dry at least 12 hours, and add wetting agent, then VERY lighty rub the repair in circular moions, keep it very well lubricated (you can use t-cut) and keep risnsing to inspect the progress, if it gets to dry, the paint will roll into balls. and smear.

When this is complete, or if not neccessary, use something like Holts rubbing compound which is a paste in a tin, and rub it as per the instructions. After that to get the full shine, you can use something like Autoglym cutting compound, or I like Holt Duplicolor foam rubbing comapound which is an aerosol of foam. Rub the hole panel until it all matches.
Car paint question - novice_on_cars
Is this aerosol paint? If so, you will find its very
delicate, so be careful!


it's a halfords aerosol with the exact matching colour, think i done over 8 layers waiting 10min between layers.

I would wait over a week before touching it.
It depends on the finish what refinishing needs to be done,
if the finish is a bit uneven or has runs, you
will need 1500 wet and dry on a block, soak the
wet and dry at least 12 hours, and add wetting agent,
then VERY lighty rub the repair in circular moions, keep it
very well lubricated (you can use t-cut) and keep risnsing to
inspect the progress, if it gets to dry, the paint will
roll into balls. and smear.


i do have 1500 grit wet and dry but not a block, could i wrap it round on a sanding block?
When this is complete, or if not neccessary, use something
like Holts rubbing compound which is a paste in a tin,
and rub it as per the instructions. After that to
get the full shine, you can use something like Autoglym cutting
compound, or I like Holt Duplicolor foam rubbing comapound which is
an aerosol of foam. Rub the hole panel until it all
matches.


im confused, why use a rubbing compound after already sanding? and then use another rubbing compound?

when should i start on the rubbing compound? after i get the surface almost flat?


On lighter scratches, i used matching aerosol paint , spray, wait for 10min and then used t-cut with a tough cloth like a old pillow case and rub hard until the excess paint is rubbed off,stratch less visible. could this technique work on major scratch where you see bare metal.

i kind of sanded too hard and you can see rings of layer of paint. already done the paint part and waiting to level it off.

Car paint question - novice_on_cars
i could have sworn i made a new post on the technical matter forum about car paint question and now see it merged to my old post!?!?!?
Car paint question - Dynamic Dave
novice_on_cars,

As the questions you posed were all related to one another, it made sense (well to me anyway) that they should all be merged together to avoid repetition.
Car paint question - novice_on_cars
ok no problem, thought i tried moving to technical since it was meant tobe over there and not here and the old post didn't get replied for ages.