bought the T-cut matallic,that didn't help much in removing the primmer so i got grit 800 sandpaper that kind of worked but too slow so got grit 180 sandpaper
sanded until it was level and used grit 800.
now do i need a higher grit to smooth it? and how should i apply paint to an area of about 2cm in diametor? spray on or brush on?
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I see you mention 'sandpaper'. I hope you mean 'wet & dry' - used wet. You'll find that 'wet & dry' used with warm soapy water works well.
Covering an area of that size 'inconspicuously' might be difficult. If it's in a place that's not too obvious, you might get away with brush painting followed by flatting and polishing, but if it's somewhere obvious you might need to 'blow it in' a bit. You might find that tearing a hole in the middle of a sheet of newspaper - lining it up with the repair and spraying through the hole - might work. Work with short gentle bursts of the aerosol building up light coats. Wait for each to dry and check progress.
Once the whole thing is suitably covered it might be ok if you just blend in with T Cut - but if there is much difference you might want to be brave and try a swift flick over the general area with 'wider' masking to blend everything in.
I never spray over masking tape unless I really want a sharp break. It's usually better to tape some newspaper 'further away' and maybe leave a torn edge to the paper where the blending in comes.
It's all pretty hit and miss, I'm afraid! You might be lucky and get a very reasonable job first time or you might go a bit too far and ruin the lot! Be patient - build coats up slowly. I like Brasso to finish up with too - usually the following day.
Good luck!
Graeme
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what do you mean by "flatting"?
also it's metallic so how many layer of lacquer i need?
i have an idea of rubbing the paint into the scratches with a cloth or is that a bad idea?
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Sorry - 'flatting' just really means rubbing flat!
I wouldn't worry too much about lacquer over such a small area. If you get a respectable finish with paint alone, I'd tend to give it a good coat of polish and forget about the lacquer. It's all too easy to land up with a 'toffee apple'! I often get jobs about 90% to my satisfaction then land up having one last go with the aerosol or T Cut - and destroying the lot! Quit while you're ahead!
I think rubbing paint in with a cloth might cause problems, although I see where you're coming from. You'll probably find it will dry on the surrounding paintwork and be difficult to shift or even lift some of the surrounding paint. A very fine artist's brush sometimes works (get a cheap set from Woolies!). If need be, spray some paint into the aerosol lid - maybe even add a spot of paint thinner to produce a very thin mixture. Then gently touch in with a few coats, allowing it to dry between coats.Finally rub down with T Cut.
I realise we're into 'technical' territory here. Maybe the thread should be moved. I appreciate what it's like when you try this sort of thing for the first time, and hope some of this helps in some small way.
We all have to learn. I remember when I was (very) young and green, I once tried filling a hole in a sill of a Hillman Minx with Polyfilla. At first it looked beautiful. An hour later the dampness caused rusty streaks to bleed through! Aargh!
If you think that's bad, I knew an elderly neighbour who had an even easier (and surprisingly effective!) answer to rust holes on his Triumph Herald. He stuck Fablon over them and painted over! No MOTS in those days, otherwise a poke with a screwdriver might have had devastating consequences!
You do learn, though. I fitted new wheel arch panels to a Clio a few weeks ago, filled them (not Polyfilla this time!) and resprayed. They're not perfect, but you would have to have the repair pointed out to you to notice, so I'm reasonably happy.
Have I just brought the thread back to 'Discussion' with that aside?
Graeme
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Sorry - 'flatting' just really means rubbing flat! I wouldn't worry too much about lacquer over such a small area. If you get a respectable finish with paint alone, I'd tend to give it a good coat of polish and forget about the lacquer. It's all too easy to land up with a 'toffee apple'! I often get jobs about 90% to my satisfaction then land up having one last go with the aerosol or T Cut - and destroying the lot! Quit while you're ahead! I think rubbing paint in with a cloth might cause problems, although I see where you're coming from. You'll probably find it will dry on the surrounding paintwork and be difficult to shift or even lift some of the surrounding paint. A very fine artist's brush sometimes works (get a cheap set from Woolies!). If need be, spray some paint into the aerosol lid - maybe even add a spot of paint thinner to produce a very thin mixture. Then gently touch in with a few coats, allowing it to dry between coats.Finally rub down with T Cut.
Thanks for the tip, but already done it before i got this message. it was my first time and thank god i done it right this time.
1.Used 1500 grit sand paper around the area and then t-cut to clean.
2.newspaper around the area
3.lightly spray metallic paint and wait to dry (same colour :)
4.Used ALOT of T-cut and rub so hard and repeat
used abit of lacquer and your right not much difference with it so i might skip that part on the next scratches.
Now i need to fix an area where i sanded too hard and have to layer on the paint until flush.
After all this my next job is that scuff on the front bumper!!!
thanks again for all the help
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B&Q don't sell them and alot of broken links on the net :(,
which online shop you people buy them from. or any shops in leicester?
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Novice,
Go to Google - type in 2000 grit blocks - there are 9980 answers - pick the most convenient for you.
Matt35.
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Ahhh! and I thought he wanted 2000, Grit Blocks not 2000 grit blocks...
Oh Well, He might ask for Fork Handles (four candles) as well.
John R
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That's pretty fine. About the same as T-cut, I imagine...
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Found 1500 at halfords instead and seems to do the job
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i'd spray and lightly sanded several layers on my car and want to know after it's dried after 24hours, should i use t-cut and rub the excess paint or sand using 1500grit very very slowly until it's flush with the body work?
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instead of using t-cut, try a proper cutting compound, but this would normally be used after a week to allow the paint to go off properly.
Pastyman
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Is this aerosol paint? If so, you will find its very delicate, so be careful!
I would wait over a week before touching it.
It depends on the finish what refinishing needs to be done, if the finish is a bit uneven or has runs, you will need 1500 wet and dry on a block, soak the wet and dry at least 12 hours, and add wetting agent, then VERY lighty rub the repair in circular moions, keep it very well lubricated (you can use t-cut) and keep risnsing to inspect the progress, if it gets to dry, the paint will roll into balls. and smear.
When this is complete, or if not neccessary, use something like Holts rubbing compound which is a paste in a tin, and rub it as per the instructions. After that to get the full shine, you can use something like Autoglym cutting compound, or I like Holt Duplicolor foam rubbing comapound which is an aerosol of foam. Rub the hole panel until it all matches.
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Is this aerosol paint? If so, you will find its very delicate, so be careful!
it's a halfords aerosol with the exact matching colour, think i done over 8 layers waiting 10min between layers.
I would wait over a week before touching it. It depends on the finish what refinishing needs to be done, if the finish is a bit uneven or has runs, you will need 1500 wet and dry on a block, soak the wet and dry at least 12 hours, and add wetting agent, then VERY lighty rub the repair in circular moions, keep it very well lubricated (you can use t-cut) and keep risnsing to inspect the progress, if it gets to dry, the paint will roll into balls. and smear.
i do have 1500 grit wet and dry but not a block, could i wrap it round on a sanding block?
When this is complete, or if not neccessary, use something like Holts rubbing compound which is a paste in a tin, and rub it as per the instructions. After that to get the full shine, you can use something like Autoglym cutting compound, or I like Holt Duplicolor foam rubbing comapound which is an aerosol of foam. Rub the hole panel until it all matches.
im confused, why use a rubbing compound after already sanding? and then use another rubbing compound?
when should i start on the rubbing compound? after i get the surface almost flat?
On lighter scratches, i used matching aerosol paint , spray, wait for 10min and then used t-cut with a tough cloth like a old pillow case and rub hard until the excess paint is rubbed off,stratch less visible. could this technique work on major scratch where you see bare metal.
i kind of sanded too hard and you can see rings of layer of paint. already done the paint part and waiting to level it off.
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i could have sworn i made a new post on the technical matter forum about car paint question and now see it merged to my old post!?!?!?
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novice_on_cars,
As the questions you posed were all related to one another, it made sense (well to me anyway) that they should all be merged together to avoid repetition.
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ok no problem, thought i tried moving to technical since it was meant tobe over there and not here and the old post didn't get replied for ages.
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