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Mitsubishi Colt - Rear wheel locked - Mitsubishi Colt 2007 - jambo17

Hi All

My rear passenger wheel currently does not move. I've tried to rock the car back and forth,, forward and reverse to force it to move (which used to work before) but this time it feels really stuck.

It's an automatic car, with drum brakes. I've managed to take the wheel and it certainly looks like it could just be either rust, or the pads heated to the drum (due to my poor braking ability)

My father in law has had a go at tapping the drum with a hammer. It's either really stuck or we didn't hit it hard enough. He's suggesting we put the spare wheel on the wrong way and donkey kicking to see if we can force the drum to release/open up but the wheel only goes on 1 way.

The drum itself, in addition to the 4 wheel nut holes, has 2 smaller holes. 1 of which had a star/hex shaped bolt - the other hole seems to be worn.

Any ideas what we can do to free the wheel up? I was thinking about finding some lubricating spray or rust eating spray and spraying like crazy, leaving to soak and then try driving again to force it to turn.

I'm not mechanically savvy which doesn't help!

Mitsubishi Colt - Rear wheel locked - Mitsubishi Colt 2007 - hardway

Not mechanically savvy,

well your going to learn.

First back the handbrake cable adjustment way off,

And I mean way off,

so much so the level can be pointed to the roof!

then with flat blade screw drivers tapped into the gap between the drum and back plate at the 12 and 6 clock positions try to lever the drum off.

it's going to resist but persevere.

if your getting no change then back off the drum bleed screw so it leaks fluid.

now back to wiggling the drum.

letting the fluid run free can often make the slave cylinder compress enough to let the shoes contract and free the drum.

So try these.

Oh and I almost missed this,

REMOVE THE TORX FASTENER FIRST AS IT HOLD THE DRUM ON!!

Edited by hardway on 12/11/2018 at 16:33

Mitsubishi Colt - Rear wheel locked - Mitsubishi Colt 2007 - gordonbennet

All depends on the reason for it locking solid.

IF the shoe is rusted to the drum after a period of standing in the wet or some other reason for water getting into the drum, then often enough sudden movement can jolt it free, this is most likely to work in reverse as you could probably drag the stuck wheel forwards till the tyre wore through and exploded before this dratted drum freed up.

Rusting on can happen surprisingly quickly after washing the car, a couple of days is enough, and its best to leave the parking brake off in my experience if your private parking area is suitable after car washing, it can also happen to clutch plates when a car is stood for enough time.

If it's not water and we're down to brute force due to a fault, you'd be surprised just how much clout the drum can take when hammering if needed, preferably sharp taps straight on with a hammer, not using the edge of the hammer as it concentrates too much force at a small contact point.

Mitsubishi Colt - Rear wheel locked - Mitsubishi Colt 2007 - John F

I'd try a blow lamp. Get the drum as hot as you can - this will make it expand, and keep hammering. Do let us know how you get on!

Mitsubishi Colt - Rear wheel locked - Mitsubishi Colt 2007 - Railroad.

Get a hammer and whack the backplate behind the wheel. The brakes usually then come right off. The shoes have most likely got wet and have stuck to the drum, so even though the mechanism retracts when you release the handbrake the shoe or shoes stay stuck. This tends to happen more on the N/S than the O/S. If they don't come off it's possible that the brake shoe lining has broken away from the shoe. The usual sign of this is the wheel will rotate about half a turn and lock up, and then will rotate the other way half a turn and lock up again. Peugeot and Citroen were terrible for this. I've attended loads of them when I was an AA Patrol.

Mitsubishi Colt - Rear wheel locked - Mitsubishi Colt 2007 - bolt

If the adjusters have been working ok and the shoes have worn into the drum, there could be a wear lip on the inside of the drum by the backplate, in which case the only way is a lever on one side between drum and backplate(preferably flat bladed screwdriver) and hammer the opposite side working alternate sides

used to be as common as sticky shoes if the drum gets worn as some do...

Mitsubishi Colt - Rear wheel locked - Mitsubishi Colt 2007 - thunderbird

I'd try a blow lamp. Get the drum as hot as you can - this will make it expand, and keep hammering. Do let us know how you get on!

Heat is an excellent way of helping to release seized components especially when 2 or more are made of different materials and expand at different rates. Problem I see here is the simple fact that a brake drum is quite a big area thus its going to be a struggle to heat it up evenly and sufficiently to work. Might be worth squirting some petrol (or other flammable liquid) inside the drum to assist the heating up process. Might not do the linings or brake cylinder seals any good (a blowlamp on its own might cause problems) but its got to be worth a try.

 

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