I'd be inclined to whip the wheel off if it hasn't already been done for peace of mind, that level of wear should be associated with a noisy or grinding/rumbling bearing, it's slightly possible the hub nut has somehow come loose and is slowly unscrewing itself, it could happen especially on the nearside assuming its RH thread as the wheel rotates.

The MOT tester will not have removed the wheel to check this unless you asked the garage for a diagnosis after the test.

Its entirely possible that the hub/bearing is one unit, so easy enough to replace but mayeb more expensive than a bearing which would then have to be pressed out and in, swings and roundabouts, OE will probably be expensive, worth checking the usual online sites for alternatives.

Edited by gordonbennet on 18/09/2016 at 08:13

Be under warranty won't it, so Hyundai's problem to sort it out....

I think Kat has been self servicing, so warranty is probably a no go even if the car is under 5 years.

Didn't realise the i10 had been around that long, I must be getting old....!

Changing a W/B is pretty straightforward if you have the right tools. Hub nut off, brake caliper off, split track rod end and bottom ball joint, undo connection to strut, unplug ABS sensor, and remove hub carrier from car. Press or pull out the hub. Fight the circlip out of the back of the bearing (usually resembles a rusty lump and is reluctant to be removed!). Press bearing out. Clean up the hub and press new bearing in. Remove the outer track from the hub (bearing puller or cut it with a grinder then snap it), then press the hub back into the bearing. Refit to the car. Depending on the arrangement it may be necessary to remove the ABS sensor, which can be as bad as removing the bearing itself!!