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We've got one of these. And on the first and second service the oil levels have been above the maximum mark. Dipped on level ground when engine cold.
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The engine has probably been overfilled by a careless workshop man
(with a "that will do mentality")
Speak to the manager at the dealership tell him the engine has been overfilled.
Instruct him to arrange for the excess oil to be removed, this can be done easily in a few minutes if you have a dipstick ( use a Sealy Oil Extractor)
the Ford Manual OVERIDES any excuses from the dealer
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Are EcoBoost engines anygood? Do they really deliver the efficency that they state www.jenningsmotorgroup.co.uk/new/ford/ecoboost/. is it not just another case of factory test conditions get the efficency?
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Ecoboost engines give as realistic fuel consumption figures as any other under EC tests.
That is: overstated by at least 20% or a lot more.
Anyone who needs to ask needs to read the various guides on fuel consumption on this site and others.
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Must be dealer-manufacturer only puts fixed amount of oil in each engine-does not use dipstick.
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Must be dealer-manufacturer only puts fixed amount of oil in each engine-does not use dipstick.
I believe they use a device that pumps a pre determined amount, usually the operator sets it to the amount stated by manufacturer which does not take into account any remaining oil that does not drain out or any errors in capacity figures.
One of my cars has a book capacity of 4.8 litres but, when doing oil changes 4 litres is enough to fill it to the max on dipstick.
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One of my cars has a book capacity of 4.8 litres but, when doing oil changes 4 litres is enough to fill it to the max on dipstick.
Our Kia had a capacity of 5.3 litres which would put the level on the dipstick to about 10mm above max. If you used a 5 litre can the level would be spot on.
Presume the 5.3 litres was for a totally dry engine and not one with some oil still in the sump and galleries.
Seem to remember having one car in the past that gave several capacities which included capacities for changes with and without a filter as well as total oil capacity.
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The engine has probably been overfilled by a careless workshop man
(with a "that will do mentality")
I should think he has looked at some master reference sheet and measured out the stated amount of oil, maybe added a bit for luck. Probably not had (or taken) time to check the dipstick meaningfully. New cars mostly have electronic dipsticks anyway - don't know if they can detect overfill ?
Doubt that the engine is in danger though. See if the level drops, as it may do in a new engine.
Edited by Andrew-T on 21/12/2015 at 15:41
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Does it really make that much difference, I'm sure there's a healthy safety margin either way. I drive about 27k miles a year and have now given up checking oil levels, Ford/PSA 2.0l diesel in last 2 cars never seems to use any oil. Current DS5 on 80k miles previous Kuga over 100k. If overfilled it will burn off or be blown out of breather, if too low a warning light comes on. The level of abuse required to damage a modern engine is something most here are probably incapable of doing.
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The level of abuse required to damage a modern engine is something most here are probably incapable of doing.
Overfilled oil entering the emmision control system on modern cars will cause problems sooner or later. Oil will kill the catalyst and DPF. Manufacturers are very specific about oil spec to protect these components.
I drive about 27k miles a year and have now given up checking oil levels,
Carry on not checking your oil but do not suggest that others follow your stupid ways.
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There are two particular lorries where i work, the drivers of which can't be armed to press the sequence of buttons (takes 5 seconds) to get an oil reading, hence whenever you are unfortunate enough to have to drive one of those two it will come as no surprise that they can need up to 8 litres adding before coming up to the full mark before you dare start the thing up, oh and once the reading gets to a fraction over min a low oil warning, to which they are oblivious, will flash up across the dash at every start.
It will come as no surprise to the more enlightened members here that these vehicles use far more oil than the other vehicles which get driven by those who do their jobs with a bit of pride care and appreciation, now i wonder why this could be...where's the roll eyes smiley?
For the record i once had to add 4 or 5 gallons to the sump of a Volvo lorry when the regular driver went on holiday, 6 or 7ish gallon capacity, about 6 months later he seized the engine solid, and i once drained 1 pint of oil out of a square Granada 2.3 when i serviced it (driver was a tech boffin of sorts) yet it suffered no future ill effects from running like that for probably months, amazing.
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There are two particular lorries where i work, the drivers of which can't be armed to press the sequence of buttons (takes 5 seconds) to get an oil reading, hence whenever you are unfortunate enough to have to drive one of those two it will come as no surprise that they can need up to 8 litres adding before coming up to the full mark before you dare start the thing up, oh and once the reading gets to a fraction over min a low oil warning, to which they are oblivious, will flash up across the dash at every start.
An 8-litre top-up? Ouch, that can't be cheap.
Out of curiosity, what is a typical change interval for a modern lorry, and what type of oil is recommended?
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An 8-litre top-up? Ouch, that can't be cheap.
Out of curiosity, what is a typical change interval for a modern lorry, and what type of oil is recommended?
Not as bad as you might think, company buys it by the 50 gallon drum (we have three different oils now for various makes/types), mine takes 10w40 low ash full synthetic, to put it in perspective i add around 3 litres a month into mine which covers roughly 10/12000 kms a month give or take a bit, the electronic dipstick won't show anything other than OK till it gets down to about 1/3rd above min level when 3 litres takes it nicely to max.
I'm not absolutely sure how often the oil is changed on my own make, probably the same as the other main make its supposed to be every other or third inspection so every 12/18 weeks, they're all leased on full maintenance package so who knows _;) i will make a point of asking when i go to the garage next though.
Oil filtration is far different on lorries, not just a simple paper strainer as in car engines.
Compare with where i worked in a previous life (80's), probably the best maintained lorries in the county and among the best in the country, engine oil every 15k miles and gearbox and axle oils every 3rd sevice, so 45k, needless to say those overspecified British only vehicles almost never gave a moments problem (turbo failure was unheard of) and after usually 7 years hard work, long before we gained speed limiters so speeds were high but high gearing large engines revs low (1100rpm @ 70mph all day without a murmer), there would be a queue of small hauliers and owner drivers itching to buy them, i learned much from my old boss about good servicing and it paying off.
Cab rust was the biggest problem then.
Edited by gordonbennet on 22/12/2015 at 12:40
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@GordonBennet - that's interesting, thank you. Hard-working commercial vehicles is a different world!
In the mid-80s when I used to hitch a lot, the tractor unit of choice seemed to be the DAF 3300. I vividly remember getting a lift in a 3300 without a trailer that was heading back home, doing an indicated 80 in the centre lane. That thing motored. Inline 6-cylinder motor, if I remember right, they did sound nice.
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I vividly remember getting a lift in a 3300 without a trailer that was heading back home, doing an indicated 80 in the centre lane. That thing motored. Inline 6-cylinder motor, if I remember right, they did sound nice.
The DAF 2800/3300 range were some of the best lorries you could buy then, very reliable fairly simple (which helps a lot) and up for some graft even if not the most economical, my son who now drives tankers too spent many hours in his child seat which was roped, yes roped ( social services would have a fit now, i'd feature in the Daily Wail), to the passenger seat of a 2800 from aged 18 months, he loved it, sadly now everything is H&S and now children are more or less banned from most lorries we no longer have the 'steeped' in tradition and learning lorry drivers coming through from boyhood, and in my humble we are all worse off for it, i suspect the same applies in many industries where children learned the ropes long before they left school.
I had some seriously fast lorries over the years, one MAN in particular would cruise happily at 95 if you so wished...so i'm told.
Most of us are not allowed to pick up hitchikers any more, mixed blessings, i met some interesting people over the years.
Rose tints or not, this country was a far nicer place to live in years gone by.
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I had some seriously fast lorries over the years, one MAN in particular would cruise happily at 95 if you so wished...so i'm told.
Most of us are not allowed to pick up hitchikers any more, mixed blessings, i met some interesting people over the years.
Very interesting, GB, took me right back ... when hitching in the 80s, I had lifts in a rich variety of cabs, from ancient late 60s / early 70s Scammels to the then-new DAF 3300, big Scanias etc.
The sense of speed was further heightened by the height above the road and the sheer mass of the things. Likewise, I used to enjoy meeting and talking to the various people.
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The level of abuse required to damage a modern engine is something most here are probably incapable of doing.
I have seen a number of drivers who appear to relish the challenge. They usually succeeed over 30,000 miles or so - no oil changes wreck timing chains..
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I repeat
the Ford Manual OVERIDES any excuses from the dealer or opinions of company car drivers / whoever
"The manual says to check the oil when the engine is cold and that the oil must not be above the maximum"
It is YOUR engine and your problem if it suffers any damage from being overfilled.
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the Ford Manual OVERIDES any excuses from the dealer or opinions of company car drivers / whoever
"The manual says to check the oil when the engine is cold and that the oil must not be above the maximum"
Agreed. But I'm sure no manufacturer would (should?) release any mass-produced vehicle to a careless public without a reasonable safety margin above the MAX mark. OP's query was - how big is it? And how much does the dipstick reading vary with the car's attitude?
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The answer is qute simple. Follow the owner manual which no doubt says check on level ground and will go on to state if its hot or cold and how long to leave standing. It will also state do not fill above max and do not allow to drop below min.
Do that and there is no need to know what the safety margin is.
How hard can it be?
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How hard can it be?
It's nothing to do with being hard, Skidpan. It's just something that many people don't want to do, or aren't interested in doing, or they expect a modern machine to work indefinitely - or at least go on working after it has worked without attention for 6 months.
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or they expect a modern machine to work indefinitely - or at least go on working after it has worked without attention for 6 months.
like their washing machine then, when it breaks down complain a lot about things don't last any more.
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like their washing machine then, when it breaks down complain a lot about things don't last any more.
Thank the lord for that.
When I bought my first auto washing machine in 1983 it cost £400 and broke within the first week and regularly for the next 5 or so years. Luckilly I had an extended warranty.
I know this is the kiss of death but the last time I bought a new washing machine was in 2008. It was the £200 (the cheapest model in the shop) and its never been touched.
They just don't last like they used to.
But cars are not washing machines. They are far more expensive and need maintaining.
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I know this is the kiss of death but the last time I bought a new washing machine was in 2008. It was the £200 (the cheapest model in the shop) and its never been touched.
Ditto!
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Wish i'd done the same, invested nearly a £grand in a 10 year parts and labour covered ISE 10 (superb machine, built to Miele standards), handily the company went bust last year, great.
We'll see how long it lasts.
Edited by gordonbennet on 22/12/2015 at 16:20
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Wish i'd done the same, invested nearly a £grand in a 10 year parts and labour covered ISE 10 (superb machine, built to Miele standards), handily the company went bust last year, great.
We'll see how long it lasts.
Gordon How could you.. A GRAND for a washing machine.. Ouch..
But on the subject, bought a new Baumatic gas hob and they went bust...
Anything now that is "consumer white goods" and that sadly now includes cars is bought and treated as white goods. If I added up the costs of all the warranties that shops and garages want to sell me and save that money (which i do save) then I can buy most things new when they go kaput. But most things last 5 years + so still happy with our washing machine.
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Gordon How could you.. A GRAND for a washing machine.. Ouch
File it under ''seemed like a good idea at the time'' then give me a good whack round the back of the head with a wet cod
in mitigation i once mistakenly bought a Beko washer, utter junk that didn't even make 12 months before it fell apart (it hadn't been wired right at the factory and i fixed that before i could use it), eventually chucked it on the tip in disgust, never bought cheapest since.
Edited by gordonbennet on 22/12/2015 at 17:49
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then give me a good whack round the back of the head with a wet cod
Have you seen the price of cod? a decent big one will break your wallet..
swmbo has a nice recipe for steamed cod loin with onions and potatos, bit of her special mix middle eastern curry powder on it.
YUM..
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Doesn't look good GB www.washerhelp.co.uk/forums/topic/1299-ise-10-year.../
I bought a Miele in 1998 and still have it, It's had 1 heating element, fitted by me in all that time.
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It was a toss up between Miele and ISE, i preferred the small company option for various reasons and obviously got it wrong.
Its an ISE 10, it is very well made and does all we ask of it, if it lasts, great if it dies and i can't get it fixed i'll kick myself up the back side.
Were they a bunch of wide boys who painted a good picture pocketed the loot and vanished, i really don't know.
Next time think i'll do as the other lads, cheap as chips, when it breaks sling it and replace it, but it won't be a Beko, never again.
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Your not alone GB, I bought a top of the range Stoves oven. What a heap of British made junk that was. Now have the cheapest Bosch oven and if it goes wrong I'll just buy a new oven unless I can DIY fix on the cheap.
I think Miele have started going downhill, The dishwasher broke down after 10 years of service, New Miele was bought but, build quality not as good as the old one and only has a 2 year guarantee.
ORB I also bought a Baumatic hob about 3 years ago and can't fault it.
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Never had a problem with bosh appliances the ones in my flat are all over 20 years old and never give a hint of trouble.
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Never had a problem with bosh appliances the ones in my flat are all over 20 years old and never give a hint of trouble.
Same experience here from the brand of old, but i wouldn't expect the same from new ones, at least under a certain price level, the expensive ones have made in Germany plastered all over the place incl the packaging, the cheap ones you try and find the PRC label.
They're not alone in this mind, and its a practice i despise, but seems to be the case for some years now of having to think laterally, ie what arn't they telling me.
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"... i wouldn't expect the same from new ones..."
I have bought, for various properties that I have been involved with, three Bosch washing machines over the last five years or so - not the cheapest, but still reasonably-priced. All have performed faultlessly and have produced excellent results.
I have a Bosch gas hob and electric fan oven that came with this house and are probably over twenty years old. Again, faultless.
A couple of week ago we bought a big fridge-freezer by Bosch - not cheap, as it is frost-free and there is some fan system that not only ensures both parts are frost-free, but seems to keep the fridge at an even temperature. I am most impressed.
is this thread-drift or what?
Edited by FP on 23/12/2015 at 11:14
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I'm sure Avant will knock it on the head (or shift it to general) in due course, but how much can you talk about how much is too much oil, when its blindingly obvious.
Seems to be more interest in our experiences mistakes and winners in white goods anyway.
A bit of thread drift is good, well so long as our leader doesn't get the hump and give us a good telling off..:-)
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Our beloved and respected leader will probably look indulgently upon it and will benevolently allow it to stand. He almost never gets things wrong. (Cough...)
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is this thread-drift or what?
I was beginning to wonder if it had been hijacked by those K"tchen advertising people ....
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Anyone got a large wet cod, (unfilleted?)
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