mild steel system - Exhaust Treatment Trick - edlithgow

When I have my exhaust open at the manifold/downpipe end, I try and tip a couple of teaspoonfuls or so of portland cement down it.

Probably a bad idea with a catalytic converter, but so far (touch wood) I've managed to avoid them.

I suppose most "classics" have been fitted with stainless systems, which probably wouldn't benefit, so this is pretty much a "banger only" trick.

I've no concrete evidence (fnar fnar, geddit? etc) that it works, but the theory seems solid enough.

mild steel system - Exhaust Treatment Trick - skidpan

but the theory seems solid enough.

Whats the theory then.

How does it help with external corrosion.

mild steel system - Exhaust Treatment Trick - gordonbennet

Go on i'll bite, did check the date in case i've been asleep for a week.

Whats the theory behind this, i could understand feeding some oil down the pipe the other side of the CAT, though never tried that either as i suspect it wouldn't be worth the bother.

Best practice i find is to paint the welds especially before fitting for help with outside corrosion.

mild steel system - Exhaust Treatment Trick - edlithgow

I'm told exhaust condensate tends to be acid, so I'm assuming that cement, which is strongly alkaline, will tend to neutralise the acids. That's the theory. Dunno if it works, but I don't off hand see why it shouldn't.


It could have no possible effect on external corrosion. (?)

Obviously


Evidence-wise, all I can say is that my exhausts havn't plugged, exploded or developed big holes immediately after doing it.

mild steel system - Exhaust Treatment Trick - gordonbennet

Don't know, could be a possibility.

Will be doing a bit of crafty sorting on the Landcruiser exhaust in due course, the rear box is newish, but the cat and centre box are original @ 15 years old (the Merc cat/centre is OE at 19), no aftermarket versions for the petrol model OE only but apparently the plentiful and cheap aftermarket Diesel centre box fits, just needs the front pipe from the petrol version sleeving and welding to the Diesel inlet pipe...a saving of some £300...the petrol box has a bolt in valve that opens when through pressure raises to allow a free flow, double skinned can too for extra megacost, the Diesel has no such luxuries (faff), will just sound a bit meatier afterwards.

The Scooby is having a pressy of full stainless soon.

Don't think i'll be cementing either..:-)

mild steel system - Exhaust Treatment Trick - Wackyracer

Where are you getting the stainless exhaust GB? I found our local Longlife centre could make a tail pipe section for a Musso cheaper than buying one from a motor factors.

mild steel system - Exhaust Treatment Trick - madf

Our Yaris exhaust is 13 years old. A three yearly brush down, rust treatment and repaint with heat proof paint works wonders..

mild steel system - Exhaust Treatment Trick - edlithgow

Our Yaris exhaust is 13 years old. A three yearly brush down, rust treatment and repaint with heat proof paint works wonders..

That'd likely be worth doing too, though a lot more trouble than tipping some cement in the downpipe, assuming you have the system open anyway, as I have a few times.

I also think they mostly rot from the inside out. (here in Taiwan at least, though its also my recollection of the UK).

I dunno if I'll be able to find heat proof paint here. Do you know what its made of?

mild steel system - Exhaust Treatment Trick - gordonbennet

Where are you getting the stainless exhaust GB? I found our local Longlife centre could make a tail pipe section for a Musso cheaper than buying one from a motor factors.

Two choices, there's a longlife place at Northampton, the mechanic there impressed me by not wanting to replace the rear box on the old MB with a stainless custom, angle the pipe enters the box meant the type of box he'd have to use would leave it sounding a little uncouth...OE pipes all suffer from salt battering over the rear axle, but cheap enough to simply replace when needed.

Thats my nearest stainless centre...MIJ at Walsall seem to do a few for Subarus, and i've toyed with getting it done the same day as we nip over to Tenbury to get the LPG system serviced and checked over...bit of a trek if it needs any warranty work though.

Happy to hear of any recommendations within sensible travelling distance of Northants though.

It needs doing because the main box on the 3.0 H6 has a valve arrangement inside that opens up under pressure to allow better flow when needed, but again its an expensive OE only and i'm 99% certain that someone has chucked a normal 2.5 box on which doesn't have this fitting and is effectively strangling the exhaust at higher revs...SWMBO is a bit of a hooligan still, not me i've got a perma halo..:-)

You really don't want to know what OE Subaru exhausts cost, probably more than we paid for the car.

mild steel system - Exhaust Treatment Trick - Andrew-T

If the car is a diesel you may not need to bother as the coating of soot is good protection. I've only ever replaced an exhaust on petrol cars.

mild steel system - Exhaust Treatment Trick - Wackyracer

I think alot also depends on how the car is used, those on short journeys dont dry out the inside of the exhaust and do rust from the inside.

mild steel system - Exhaust Treatment Trick - focussed

For stainless exhausts try Cybox they used to be called Peco I think.

mild steel system - Exhaust Treatment Trick - gordonbennet

Thanks Focussed, bit too far away and a bit too pricey for my pocket.