does anyone have any idea why my mini runs on when i turn the ignition off? it doesn't do it every time but it does puzzle me.also my battery (which is brand new) often goes flat, the alaernator has been rewound etc.. pumping out 14 volts but when i test the connection to the starter solenoid it only shows 12.3v which i think is not enough to charge the battery, aconnected problem i have is that my headflights are quite dim i have no comparison so it may just be mini lights
if any on e can help with any of these problems i would be very grateful
thanks
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All minis do all of those things, don't they? All the ones I've had, anyway.
Sorry, best thing you can do is read the Haynes manual, at the end of every chapter there's a checklist of things to try for each individual fault, this is normally the best way to solve these things.
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does anyone have any idea why my mini runs on when i turn the ignition off?
If it's got points the timing may be way too advanced. Get the haynes manual out, whip the dizzy cap off and get to work.
If it's electronic ignition I'm a little stumped. I suppose coke and debris around the valves and plugs might get hot and glow causing continued combustion. Replacing plugs might help.
You might think about replacing everything in the HT cct anyway. Plugs, dizzy cap, rotor arm and leads. If it's been neglected it can't hurt.
Someone who knows will be along shortly.
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These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
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Thanks for the speedy replys
I've replaced most things except the points, I bet thats it, I suppose that could also explain some of the unwilling ness to start.
I know minis do all sorts of things thats part of the fun but it's very frustrating when the thing won't start,
I suppose it's out with the haynes, feeler gagues and multimeter then.
Thanks for your help if it dosen't help the car it boosts my confidence
dave
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I suppose that could also explain some of the unwilling ness to start.
It will. You want ignition retarded to start.
I suppose it's out with the haynes, feeler gagues and multimeter then.
You love it!!!
Someone who knows will be along shortly!
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
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Alternator - you'll get around 12.3 volts on a fully charged battery when the charging system isn't working at all. You need to check the lead from the alternator to the starter solenoid, and make sure the connections at each end are clean and in good condition.
Running on - how's your idle speed? If it's a little high, try dropping it and the problem may go away.
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com
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I agree with Richard. It is very common for the 'A' Series engines to run-on if the idle speed is a bit high. You need to set everything set up right (contact breaker gap, timing, carburettor - in that order) and then reduce the idle speed to almost as low as it will go.
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I also agree with Richard's and Dizzy's comments about idle speed. Same thing used to happen with my old Allagro. I had to end up stalling the thing sometimes to stop the engine running on. It was a weird sensation of putting it in 1st gear and dropping the clutch only for the car to try and shoot backwards!
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Or could it be a good old fashioned build-up of carbon on the pistons, glowing away nicely and standing in for the spark from the plug?
Time to give it the Redex treatment?
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Sorry TOTH, just discovered you'd said much the same!
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Agree with all of above. Minis are very sensitive to timing. Set up your points with as dwell meter if you have one.
The headlights should not be dim. Sounds like you have a charging problem. If your alternator is definitely OK, there is most likely a poor connection somewhere, probably corrosion/bad earth type of thing.
Baz
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running on is likely to be caused by incorrect fuel mixture (too weak)..If the car has a SU carb locate the adjuster nut and the lifter pin on the base ..one of 3 things should happen when you lift the pin at idle
1.Revs momentarily rise then drop back (mixture set ok)
2.Revs Drop (too weak)
3.Revs Increase (too rich)
regards
steve
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