I have a 1995 Nissan Primera 1.6 SLX.
I intend to add a coolant-leak additive as I think I have a small leak somewhere in the system.
Can anyone give me some tips as to how to get the most out of it. Someone suggested running the car with the cap off for a bit while it circulates.
Just some general tips would be a real help - feel free to state the obvious - I may not have thought of something.
Thanks in advance
Paul
{Added info from drop down menus that weren't previously an option when this post was first written}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 01/09/2008 at 11:03
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If you use Radweld, full instructions are on the side of the bottle. One would assume this aplies to other products as well.
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Fair comment Dave.
Obviously I was intending to install it as per instructions ;-)
However, in my experience there's sometimes a more effective
"unofficial" method used by those in the trade.
I could be wrong though.
Thanks anyway
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The trade would advise against using a leak preventer and try and flog you a new radiator instead!
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And I would probably agree with the trade....
I always say the same - something caused the hole. Something which will continue to occur. The leak preventer will prevent it leaking for a period of time. In fact, it could be a very long period of time.
Or it might just decide to let go big time and leave you stranded. Better to find the leak and fix it IMO.
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Also when using a leak stopper/ preventer it is possible to further restrict already constricted waterways thus creating further problems
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I wouldn't use it unless I knew where the leak was.
Could be a hose coming loose waiting to fall off, a head gasket leaking waiting to boil your engine, or just a tiny radiator leak which could be bodged for a while with radweld.
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feel free to state the obvious
I wasn't going to, but seeing as you offered:
If you're going to use Radweld or similar, the big mistake I've made a couple of times in the past was forgetting to SHAKE THE BOTTLE. Makes a lot of difference.
Cheers,
Dave.
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Thanks for the responses.
I was hoping to sort my problem without having to resort to this sort of thing. However, I am having on-going problems with my motor. I have replaced the rad, rad cap and stat. Flushed and changed coolant - I know there is a leak in there somewhere but my garage assures me that the head gasket is ok.
This is the last resort!
Incidentally, has anyone else suffered from intermittant air lock-type symptoms - the problem does seem to be weather related-it happened this am and it was freezing - the coolant mix is plenty strong enough though!
Any ideas, no matter how crazy would be helpful!
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Incidentally, has anyone else suffered from intermittant air lock-type symptoms - the problem does seem to be weather related-it happened this am and it was freezing - the coolant mix is plenty strong enough though!
I doubt I'll be able to give you the answer, but the following might help others to do so. What exactly do you observe when you have "intermittant air lock-type symptoms"?
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I'll post the details tomorrow - I am leaving work in a min so will give a history of the problem tomorrow.
Cheers
Paul
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You don't mean you access the site while you're at work surely? Tut, tut. ;-)
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If you are going to use rad weld, drain it out of the system as soon as possible or it will do what it says on the tin and block any narrow holes exposed to air, usually the airlock in your heater matrix, ie your heater wont work again!!!! BEWARE!!
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I've just written out the problem and it hasn't bl**dy posted.
I'll try it again later :(
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PP:
Sorry if you know this already, but if you take too long to type a post, you get logged-out. The solution is to cut and paste from word.
hth
Andy
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Or open another window, go to the Backroom and log in again...
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Paul, going back to your original question ...
I have used Radweld and Bars Leaks several times in the past and much prefer the latter. I reported on another thread how Bars Leaks gave a long-term cure for a leaking head gasket on a Vauxhall Royale that I ran for many years. I agree with others that there could be a risk of blocking the heater and radiator matrices but I have never experienced this myself.
The only tip I have is to add the sealant AFTER the radiator if this is reasonably easy on your car, perhaps by removing the top (water pump) end of the bottom hose and pouring the sealant in there. This helps it all thoroughly mix before it goes through the radiator.
As Mark (RLBS) said, it is not safe to rely on any leak fixer long-term. On the other hand, if you have replaced the radiator and other things and are unable to locate the leak, Bars Leaks might be the answer, though you will need to keep a running watch on it.
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Andy & Dave. Thank you. I didn't know about that. I am typing this in Word first. ; )
Dizzy, thanks for your advice; I'll be doing it at the weekend so fingers-crossed!
Unfortunately, the access is pathetic so I'll probably end up putting it in the rad. Do you think I should drain this system first?
The reason I ask is because I had the problem again this morning so there might be another air-lock in the system.
I have come to the conclusion that the leak is letting in exhaust gases that is creating the pressure and forcing the coolant out of the expansion tank. It must be very small because my Nissan specialist said they don't think the head gasket is at fault!
It's a right mystery - Any ideas???
Thanks
Paul
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You could try re-torquing the cylinder head bolts. I have heard this can sometimes cure a tiny leak, either of water or gas.
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Cheers, I hadn't thought of that.
Unfortunately I don't possess a torque wrench but the garage might do it if I asked them nicely.
While we're on the subject, Can you think of anywhere else the gas might be coming from?
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Any good garage should have a device which can detect the presence of exhaust gasses in the coolant. This is one of the standard tests that should have been carried out if you suspect a head gasket failure. Didn't your Nissan dealer do this? Get a second opinion on this (before you add the WELL SHAKEN radiator gloop).
Billy
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Back to my cooling system problems. The car is going in on Wednesday to check if the HG has actually gone.
In the meantime, my neighbour suggested getting it done by a local engineer as a weekend job - obviously this would be less expensive than a garage doing the work but I am not sure which way to go.
Obviously, I will wait for 'official confirmation' from the garage but in the meantime what do people think about getting it done 'on the cheap'
Thanks in advance
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It depends on a number of factors. I know you've posted before, but I couldn't immediately find it.
Do you know the person doing the cheapie?
Can you contact them if it goes wrong?
How much cheaper is it?
how old is the car and how much is it worth?
do you have AA/RAC coverage and/or a second car.
Are you mechanically capable?
I've had one done on the cheap. A week later the car overheated on the M'Way as the cooling system hadn't been properly topped up. Next day a pipe split, luckily right outside the house.
A week later I noticed another pipe was loose and a third has split since. Happily, no harm done as I check under the bonnet weekly and had a bit of luck.
Chances are you'll get what you pay for.
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Following on from my previous posts about my cooling system problems. It was the head gasket and I am having it replaced next week.
I have decided to get the water pump changed at the same time as well since it's the only component of the cooling system that hasn't been replaced.
When I get the car back should I take any special precautions to ensure it keeps in proper working order - obviously I will be checking the coolant regularly anyway.
Any suggestions??
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Did you go for the 'cheapie' in the end Primera P?
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I personnally always recheck to head bolts after 500 to 1000 miles and although these modern bolts and angular tighening are supposed to illeviate this action I always find you can establish the settled talk and 'Nip@ them up. I often several that have settled. Peter
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Primera_p
I'd agree with the idea of rechecking the head bolt tightness if the engine uses conventional bolts - ie those tightened to a specific torque.
However, if your Primera uses 'stretch' headbolts (which are tightened by applying a specific angular rotation after an initial nip to a relatively low torque) you should NOT attempt to check the tightness after a short mileage.
These bolts are tightened into the plastic region and do not have a specific 'final' torque setting, and 'checking the tightness' is not possible. Further tightening could push them beyond the correct 'stretch' and even reduce the load on the gasket.
Also stretch bolts should not be reused. These bolts deform plastically during the tightening process, and if they are reused will not give the correct gasket loading. Always use a new set when the head is replaced.
Regards
John S
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My own prescription is as follows:
1. whenever I buy a 'new' car I give it a full service. This includes the cooling system. I flush out the coolant with water and then clean out the system with Holts Radflush. I put each part of the Radflush in with plain water for 1 day (usually to work and back = 50 miles). After using the second part of the Radflush treatment I flush copiously with water and then replace the coolant with new. (see below for my coolant mix).
2. Every two years I flush the coolant out with water and treat the system for 1 day with Holts Speedflush. Flush again and replenish coolant.
My own mix is any longlife antifreeze (currently using Halfords Advanced Protection Antifreeze)at 25% with de-ionised water and half a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter.
Bearing in mind that not all the coolant can be drained out of some systems - after flushing (with the hose) I fill the system with deionised water and run till the thermostat is open and then for a further 5 minutes at idle. I then drain the system as much as possible. I then put in the measured amount of antifreeze (not pre-mixed) to give the required concentration. I then finish filling with deionised water.
I only use the water wetter because I have a petrol turbo (the turbo is water cooled). Otherwise I've never bothered.
It is a lot of effort, but I've never had any problems with internal corrosion and since I intend to keep my current car for many years I believe the effort to be worth it.
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Oops! Thanks for moving it to my previous thread. Sorry it's taken so long to reply.
Maz - Thanks for your advice. No I decided to take it to a garage I've used previously. The original quote from the specialist about £200 more than the garage I'm using so I thought I'd just get it done rather than risk the potential nightmare of getting it done on the cheap. Plus having read your advice I'd rather have some comeback should something go wrong.
John S - Thank you for you info. I'll certainly check when I pick the car up from the garage. Should I ask before they start? Presumably the garage will only replace them if they are the stretch type. If not, would it be worth getting them replaced anyway or am I getting paranoid now? ;-)
Cyd - Cheers for your advice. I've seen Water Wetter before but not been able to justify the cost. I might treat the car though following it's 'surgery'. I'll certainly be changing the coolant as per instructions since I intend to keep the car running until it reaches old age
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My own prescription is as follows: 1. whenever I buy a 'new' car I give it a full service. This includes the cooling system. I flush out the coolant with water and then clean out the system with Holts Radflush.
This thread comes about from someone who had a similar problem to me, which I will describe below and welcome any replys.
I just acquired a 1995 Primera 1.6LX which has done 185K (ugggh) but looks fantastic & still drives well.
The previous owner (from 70K onward) is a bit of a Primera nut - both he and his wife
have them. Anyhow, he sold this one because he needs reliablility for 500 miles per week to/from work and had experienced coolant loss with no explanation - suspected a little leak somewhere hidden away and used Wondarweld which has so far fixed the coolant loss. The car has been running for a couple of months (i.e. thousands of miles) ** without a thermostat ** because he wanted to make sure the magic mix got evenly mixed throughout the cooling system. This means no anti-freeze/anticorrosive coolant during that time!!
So I have this car and wish to clean out the cooling system (plan to drain, refill with pure
water, run briefly & drain again to flush away any gunk) then refill with antifreeze & fit
new thermostat before autumn sets in.
Advice/comments appreciated.
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How did this work out in the end? Is the car ok?
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