Yaris 1.4D T3 2004 - STIFF GEAR-CHANGE AFTER SERVICE - Morton

After a standard service the gear change was stiff. Very noticeable from before. I know that there wasn't anything in the service that needed attention to the gearbox. In the past I have experienced garages that have removed some parts and claimed that they came across a fault which needed repair at considerable expense. (this has been tried on with me twice in the past on different cars. One quite a large dealer, so from my experience I'm totally lacking trust in these people) The Yaris has over 100,000 miles on it and has been virtually fault free and provides 70MPG on a run.

I'm wondering if there is anything I can check to see if the garage has made a change in the hope that I'll sell it and buy another from them.

Edited by Morton on 09/09/2014 at 11:39

Yaris 1.4D T3 2004 - STIFF GEAR-CHANGE AFTER SERVICE - The-Mechanic

The gearshift is cable operated so unless one of the cables has been kinked or crimped, they shouldn't cause the stiffness. Where the shift mechanism enters the gearbox there's two levers that operate the 'box internals that could cause stiffness if they're sticking but both are unlikely causes.

What service was carried out ? If the gear oil was changed, was the correct grade used as if its too thick that'll cause stiff gear selection (as will not enough oil). Is it definitely the gear shift that's stiff or the clutch operation, crunching into gear as opposed to the actual gear lever being difficult to move ? If the brake fluid has been replaced, possibly the level was allowed to drop too far and the clutch system may have had induced some air ?

It seems strange to me a garage would purposely 'knobble' your car in the hope you'll buy a newer one from them. Taking into consideration the mileage, it is just possible that it's coincidence this has occurred now. I'd be inclined to get a second opinion from a different, trusted garage ( yes, there are some out there ) first and take it from there.

Good luck, and keep us updated please.

Yaris 1.4D T3 2004 - STIFF GEAR-CHANGE AFTER SERVICE - Manatee

Has the clutch mechanism had any work? A dragging clutch would make gear slection more difficult.

Yaris 1.4D T3 2004 - STIFF GEAR-CHANGE AFTER SERVICE - MrEckerslikefromRamsbottom

Morton - Your description of the twin cable gear shift led me to Google as to which engine this is, and it seems that you have the same PSA engine as fitted to the Ford Fiesta (and other cars). Now - there have been numerous posts on this forum regarding stiff gear change on the Fiesta. If you have got the same engine and gearbox, then you've got the same problem, as I still have to a much less extent now that my Fiesta has done 187K miles of mostly town driving.

According to the posts I've read, the problem has been found to be the nylon bushes on the gearbox end of the cables. One contributor said that he'd got the bushes out and reamed them through to clear the problem. Mine have never really got bad enough to warrant doing that. The stiffness tends to come on during hot, dry weather, and miraculously clears on the first cold, wet day. You could try flipping off the plastic cover on the front of the gearbox, and spraying the cable end pivots with Duck Oil -- and report back if it works or not.

Yaris 1.4D T3 2004 - STIFF GEAR-CHANGE AFTER SERVICE - skidpan

Morton - Your description of the twin cable gear shift led me to Google as to which engine this is, and it seems that you have the same PSA engine as fitted to the Ford Fiesta (and other cars).

Afraid you are wrong there. The Toyota 1.4 was Toyota design made by Toyota. Its a different capacity to the PSA unit used by Ford for starters.

see here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ND_engine

I suspect the confusion may have arison because the first diesel engine used in the Mini was the Toyota Yaris one. This was later replaced by the PSA one.

Yaris 1.4D T3 2004 - STIFF GEAR-CHANGE AFTER SERVICE - madf

Can the OP expand on the stiffness please?

Does it exist when moving the gear lever in neutral ?

Or only when mowing into and out of gear?

If in neutral, it will be the nyoln bushes in the cable run.. A quick solution is to remove the cover in which the gear lever sits and spray the moving joints with WD40.

If moving into gear, - which I suspect - start by bleeing the clutch.

As the brakes and the clutch share a common fluid cyclinder, any work on brakes which involves bleeding them SHOULD include bleeding the clutch ..Had that problem on son's 1.0 Yaris.

Edit: and yes: Skidpan is correct. It's a Toyota engine...Mine is still going strong.

Edited by madf on 11/09/2014 at 07:43