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My car hazard lights randomly flash, the alarm keeps going off and the central locking/windows sometimes don't work. The CCM has been changed, along with the hazard switch, the boot catch and the siren disconnected. I remove fuse 14 overnight and, if the weather is dry, it can be replaced about lunchtime and all will be OK! I have visually checked all the wiring in the seals/rear washer etc and wondered if anyone else has had a similar problem. Thank you.
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Just a thought, check the battery voltage with the engine running, should be about 14.4 volts, modern cars are very sensitive to voltage variations, otherwise could be moisture getting in somewhere.
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Thanks for your post. The battery voltage is OK. I, also, think that moisture is getting in (and back out again). I am hoping that someone has had the same problem and found out where, so that I don't have to start dismantling inner door panels and checking all the wiring on that circuit. At least, having found the fuse 14 'solution', I no longer have to disconnect the battery every night, or when I park, and I'm no longer driving around with the hazards constantly going - being flashed and waved at by other motorists, who think I'm some dopey woman driver..! :o)
Edited by GolfMK4 on 07/09/2013 at 14:45
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Hi
I had similar problems with moisture ingress to the rear hatch lock switch from the washer hose leaking. I dried it out the switch then built a plastic shield above the switch to divert water away.
All doors have similar switches so it could be any of the doors.
Joe
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Thanks Joe. I have, already, taken the main panel off on the drivers side but not the metal plate behind. (I can't remember where the switch was now!?) I will have another look and do all the doors. Thanks.
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The door open contacts on these are part of the door latch.Not easy to access as you need remove the metal support plate which holds the window regulator and glass.I would be inclined to look at the wiring that runs between the door pillars and the door through the rubber conduit.Broken /fractured wires are very common here.The fact that you lose both locking and window functions,tends to suggest an intermittant power failure.Take a look at the main power strip fuses located in aux fuse box on top of the battery.These can suffer hairline fractures and cause erratic power failure.hth
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Many thanks for the info. I have already looked at the wiring in the rubber conduits between all the doors but couldn't see anything obvious. (I chickened out of taking the metal plate off, when I looked behind the drivers door panel...!) I will take another, closer, look at the fuses on top of the battery. There is either a current going round when there shouldn't be (ie the alarm lights going off) or none there when there should (i.e. central locking and windows) and moisture appears to be a factor? Thanks again for your input.
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Similar problem in mk1 Octavia turned out to be a blocked rear window washer causing pressure leak from a joint in the supply pipe behind the boot trim by the n/s/r wheel to spray and corrode a connector pin in the adjacent wiring connector block... It looked like it had been an intermittant fault that had plagued the previous owner, congrats to VW Audi Cars Bradford on Avon for tracking it down! (No connection, just a happy customer for many years).
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Is there any way of going around the various suspect places with a hair dryer when then faults are occuring.If you hit the correct faulty one with the hot air it might dry it out enough to make the fault stop.Then you can look closer at that area.
Just a thought.
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Good idea and well worth a try. ... anything that helps find the problem - 'cos it is slowly driving me mad! :o/ (just hope none of the neighbours spot me when I'm out there! :o) )
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After much searching yesterday, I think that the fault may be near the dashboard fuse box? The doors/ boot search yielded little but spray misting near the drivers seat made the alarm lights start to flash - and a hairdryer on the fuse box got them to stop again! Happened a couple of fimes - so a huge coincidence if the problem isn't near there.
Just had the windows/central locking stop working with fuse 14 in. Took it out and put it back in the other way up and they were OK again.......... Have tried a different 10 amp fuse in the slot and it behaves the same. Could the fault be in the fuse 14 slot itself? (N.B. The fuses never blow.)
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Thanks for your post. I think I will go and take the rear panel off again and have a closer look underneath. I did have a rear washer hose leak, which is now sorted, and replaced the boot catch. Initially, thought that would solve the problem but maybe there is a faulty connector nearby..... Just finished disconnecting the doors one by one to see if the problem would stop. It didn't but at least the search area is narrowing!
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It's been over 4 months since the problem started. And, whilst we're now closer to a solution - sadly, we're not close enough......?! :o(
If any one has any other ideas, as to how to more accurately locate the position of the fault, please do post a reply. Many thanks for reading.
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It sounds very similar to the common problem on the B5 Passat, where water gets past the pollen filter seal & down under the front passenger carpet. The CCM unit lives there under the carpet at the lowest point & collects water, shorting out the wiring & causing similar faults to those you describe. I dont know where the Golf CCM lives but would be worth checking for any moisture around it or its associated wiring.
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Many thanks for the suggestion. However. the CCM, located under the steering wheel, has aready been changed and the connections inspected.
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Still searching for a solution and am currently checking the ground locations in the engine bay. Started off with those near the pollen filter which were all covered in compost! Wondering if anyone knows what the black cylindrical part is on the end of a wire nearside of the filter tray which may attach to the clip on the bodywork?
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The part you describe is the outside air temp sensor,if it is round with a 2 pin connector attached.Have you checked the wiring and fuses in the battery fuse box?
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Looked temp sensor image up online and it is that - thank you.
The top fuses on the battery were checked a while back and looked to be OK. Now that the weather is colder/wetter fuse 14 is rarely put back - though the hazards only seem to start flashing now after the ignition key is turned or the key fob pressed?
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Have you had the fault codes read on the car (I can't see that you have, but may have missed it)?
I had a similar issue on an Audi A3 Mk1, and it was all connected to the airbag system.
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Thanks - some code reads have been done. My garage got the error '130', which the diagnostic company couldn't decipher, and the local VW garage couldn't get any codes out at all. Latter suggested changing the instrument panel - which when done made no difference.
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I notice in a previous post that the ccm has been changed,Would this be a new or s/hand unit.?
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Looking at all the info and evidence so far,I would say this problem is definitely related to the ccm and/or its power supply or wiring.The comfort module is a known problem area on early mk4 golfs and can be affected by temperature.In fact I have brought back to life a failed ccm by heating the circuit board carefully with a hot air gun.I would try another ccm or buy a new one ,but i guess they are not cheap.hth
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Thanks for that. Have been tempted to try another CCM and maybe that is the route to now take. I was intendeding to check the grounds under the battery tray today as I found a thread suggesting that they could be an issue with intermittent electrical faults??
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If you have got a laptop, you can download a copy of the free version of VCDS and buy a cable (around £10 as I recall) from ebay. This way you can start doing your own fault code reading (it's not hard!). VCDS is as good as (some argue better) than what the VW main dealers use. The free version of VCDS allows you to read/clear fault codes.
It doesn't sound very promising that the garage couldn't decipher the fault code they'd read off ie their diagnostic kit isn't that great.
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What a good idea... I didn't realise that was a possibility. Thank you.
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It just gives you that much more ability to diagnose faults/home in on the problem!
Problems/fault codes don't always appear where you expect them to, either. When I said I had an airbag problem on my A3 Mk1, the code was being stored on the Engine Control module, not the Airbag Module. So once you do get a copy of VCDS, ensure you scan ALL modules.
As an aside, the airbag problem was down to water ingress leading to (green) corrosion of several of the pins on the plug in to the Airbag module. And the symptons were randomly flashing hazards and interior lights coming on.......fixed by cleaning the pins/plug with spirit vinegar!
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Thank You - Again.
Now half term so was able to remove the battery tray earlier - the grounds looked OK underneath. Another tick in the elimination process! Next step is to buy a lead and download the diagnostic software...... Will then hopefully see if I need to try yet another CCM?!
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Not sure if it's connected but I've noticed that the headlight buzzer no longer works. Thought it was on the fuse 14 circuit but it remains silent even when the fuse is replaced?
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......but it has now just now worked with fuse 14 back in....so it looks like it is on that circuit and works intermittently.
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Finally got the VCDS cable from Ebay (£6.95) + free Ross-Tech download and they worked fine. Both the CAN gateway and Instruments are recording the fault 01330 - No/intermittent comms with CCM. So have just been on Ebay to get another CCM to try. Self diagnostics is great - thank you so much for the suggestion. Just need the upgraded version now! :o)
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Hopefully you're on the way to getting it fixed, then.
Whereabouts are you in the country, by the way? I've got the full version of VCDS, and am in Cambs. so could help you out with re-coding a new CCM if you need help.
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I hope so.....
Many thanks for the offer - but I live in the westcountry so the full spec VCDS may just have to go on my Christmas list! :o)
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I am a confused as to why the CCM is not registering any fault codes though. Could that mean that the problem is the wiring between the instrument cluster and CCM and not the CCM itself??
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The reason the ccm is not logging any faults,is that when it is not working the electronics in the box are "dead".I am sure that if you try to communicate with the ccm when the fault is present the tester will say "no comms".Unfortunately this is the dilemma with electronic modules, if they are not working ,it is not possible to gain access to the memory.Remember,computers are clever but they have no brain.hth
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Many Thanks. But, when fuse 14 is in and the 'hazard' lights are flashing VCDS is recording no fault code found for the CCM and not no response from controller?.
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Update - fitted another second hand CCM, cleared the fault codes, rechecked the other modules, had the key recoded (couldn't do that with the free VCDS) and the fault is now fixed. :o) Many thanks for everyones contributions - I have learnt heaps about my car!
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Glad to hear it's fixed. A long journey but think how much a main dealer would have charged!!!!
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Glad to hear your determination has paid off. I think many would have given up! :)
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