Before I start, this is completely my fault - you know how it is when you get a new car - you fiddle - I dont' know what I've done but I've broken it.
The long and short of it is, when you push the button on the key to lock the car, it locks, then unlocks straight after. If you lock it with the key, it works fine. HOWEVER, if you unlock it with the button it unlocks all doors apart from the driver's one.
I have since discovered if you are inside the car and try to lock it with the handle on the passenger side, the car locks and then unlocks again straight away but locking it with the Driver's handle is fine.
I remember ages and ages ago a Ford dealer saying turn the key to ignition 2 4 times and the car will dong but I forgot the rest. I get that far and push either the unlock button and it will dong or the lock button and it will dong but I don't know what to do after that.
Any help at all on this would be most appreciate and I will stress again, nothing is broken, I've simply prevented it from working!
On my Fiat Punto unless the doors are firmly closed the "door ajar" sensor can be fooled into this behaviour e.g. Lock-unlock.
Sometimes its the kids not closing them properly but also trapped seat belts or poorly fitted door seals might be a cause to fool the car into thinking the doors open.
On the other point of re-programming a Ford key you are right there is such a procedure that should take a couple of ticks for a Ford dealer if they are feeling helpful and not need a service booking. However if the key actually works now to lock it and start the car it's already programmed and that won't be the cause of your problem.
This sounds like a mechanical problem with central locking switch mechanism in the driver's door lock. You may have to remove the door trim and check the adjustment of the locking rods and/or check for any wear/distortion.
But the last post I can't work out. The driver's side kickpanel? Forgive my ignorance but what/where is that. There is a panel on the right of the accelerator but that's where the fuel line reset switch is so I can't see it being there.
"turn the key to ignition 2 4 times and the car will dong but I forgot the rest. I get that far and push either the unlock button and it will dong or the lock button and it will dong"
Assuming you mean ignition key from position 1 to position 2 four times and then to position 0.
This is the correct procedure for programming the central locking system to recognise a new key - press either the lock or unlock button and the system dongs to indicate the key is recognised. You don't need to do anything else unless you have a second remote key. The second key will stop working unless you press the lock/unlock button on the second key immediately after pressing the lock/unlock button on the first key.
However, I don't think this is your problem. If your key wasn't recognised it wouldn't do anything.
I think your problem is with the driver's "door open" sensor. Because the sensor isn't working, the computer system thinks the door is open all the time.
When you use the remote to lock the door, the system detects the driver's door is open, and immediately unlocks all doors - correct procedure if the driver's door really is open.
When you use the remote to unlock the doors, the system detects the driver's door is open and doesn't bother sending the extra signals to open it again (so in reality it stays shut).
When you lock it with the interior passenger handle, it operates as if you had used the remote.
When you lock it with the interior driver's handle, it bypasses part of the computer system and makes a direct electrical connection to lock the driver's door.
Well, it sounds a good theory to me!
The driver's door open sensor is built into the striker plate in the B-pillar.
The driver's side kickpanel is the bit of trim your foot would kick if it slipped off the accelerator (not relevant to the above discussion).
I still think its a mechanical problem with the driver's door lock mechanism. If he physically locks it at the drivers door it works OK. If he locks it by other means it 'bounces' (tries to lock, then immediately unlocks). This is because the locking motor in the drivers door is not able to move far enough to push the switch into the 'locked' position. When you physically lock it you *are* moving the switch into the locked position.
It may be a fault with the drivers lock motor, or it may be the linkages/adjustments associated with it.
Again, thanks for your replies. I've just been out to it to have a mess around and the following happens.
OUTSIDE THE CAR
1. Locking with the key in lock works fine
2. Locking with remotes 'bounces' locks/unlocks straight away as we already knew
INSIDE THE CAR
1. Locking the drivers door inside operates the locks fine.
2. Locking from passenger side bounces the locks again
3. This is the interesting part. If you lock the drivers door from the inside, and then with the remote put the deadlocks on, you can unlock the whole car from the driver's side. It deactivates the deadlocks and unlocks the car. This cannot be done from the passenger side though.
3. This is the interesting part. If you lock the drivers
door from the inside, and then with the remote put the
deadlocks on, you can unlock the whole car from the driver's
side. It deactivates the deadlocks and unlocks the car. This cannot
be done from the passenger side though.
This is correct isn't it? I think the deadlocking switch is in the drivers door only...
I thought with the deadlocks on, the doors could not be unlocked without the key no matter which interior handle you used....incidently, since my last post I have unplugged those multiplugs and reinserted them....nothing.
NOT being able to deadlock after locking from the inside with the handle button IS CORRECT FUNCTION. This is to prevent anyone being able to deadlock themselves in and not be able to get out in an emergency.
I would suggest that the CDL switch in the drivers door latch has failed. This is the switch that senses when the motor has driven the latch into single lock mode.
One possible way of testing whether it is a sensor fault or a mechanical fault may be to listen for noises while trying to *unlock* the door with the remote (assuming Adski can get it locked in the first place).
With a sensor fault, the system shouldn't receive an unlock instruction, so nothing should happen, and no sound.
With a mechanical fault, the system should attempt to unlock and fail, with associated noises.
Not seen anything yet in these replies to change my mind, so I'll stick with my first diagnosis - faulty door open sensor (attached to striker plate in the B-pillar).
"Just a thought though, if the driver's door sensor was broken, wouldn't the light be on when driving" ... No - the light switch in the A-pillar controls the interior light, not the door open sensor.
"Noooooooo....it must be mechanical. It should be noted the remote unlocks all doors bar the driver's so it must be receiving an instruction" ... I didn't mean that the central locking system isn't receiving a signal, just that the driver's door lock isn't receiving a signal.
I should have said:
"One possible way of testing whether it is a sensor fault or a mechanical fault may be to listen for noises while trying to *unlock* the DRIVER'S door with the remote (assuming Adski can get it locked in the first place).
"With a sensor fault, the DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK shouldn't receive an unlock instruction, so nothing should happen, and no sound FROM THE DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK.
"With a mechanical fault, the DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK should attempt to unlock and fail, with associated noises."
Always assuming you can identify these specific noises when all the other locks are banging away.
Thanks to everyone for their replies which I will try (WD40). With regards to Ian's post, I see what you mean. I *think*, given what you've said that it's a sensor fault. When you unlock with the remote, all other doors unlock but not the driver's door. We knew this but the driver's door doesn't make a sound. I know this because when you walk up to the car, you know the driver's door hasn't been unlocked without even trying it. When all the doors are unlocked and you press the unlock button, the mechanism makes a noise like it normally does.
The only thing that concerns me is this passenger door lock business. You cannot lock the car from the passenger side inside or out. Would that mean that the driver's door is faulty or the passenger side? I know what you said before but surely then the driver's side wouldn't lock?
I believe you will find that there is no light switch in the A pillar. Focus and Mondeo have a switch in the striker on the B pillar which controls all door open functions via the ecu (interior light, alarm, etc etc). Thus if the interior light is operating as it should then this switch is okay. With the door open the switch can be pressed to check its function, but also check by opening and closing the door in case it's an adjustment issue. Also check to see if there is any water ingress into the switch.
I woudl like to say to everyone, thanks for you input - I know I keep saying it but it's invaluable and I really do appreciate it.
Against my better judgement, I have booked it in with Ford tomorrow. Before they do anything at all it will be £30 for a half hour labout charge. At the end of the day its only central locking - if it goes over £100 I don't think I'll get it fixed...I'll let you all know what happens.
You will insist on your technical terms won't you? :-) Truth is, I don't know. Before I could ask the man had gone. Didn't know where it was parked I had to find it in a mass of Fords.
The latch, catch, hatch, whatever you want to call it - is, in my speak, the part where when you have the door open, you see the mechanism that latches onto the thingygoogolplex that's attached to the door. That "latch" is definitely new so I'm guessing that's the only thing they replaced as I've only been billed for one part. I must say, other than this I'm afraid I do not know but thanks again for all of your advice.
P.S. - shall never ever ever get anything else repaired by Ford ever again....ever.
Well, that's what happens when you've spent 20 years in automotive oems designing door systems components.
I'm currently a Warranty Engineer for PAG (LR & Jag) and one of the components I look after is X-type door latch. Just happens to be the same door latch as is fitted to Focus and Mondeo. So I was therefore very interested to hear about the root cause of your fault.
Presumably then, the old latch wasn't closing properly or at least the car didm't think it was. Locking the remote thus bounced the locks open. Locking the passenger side bounced the door locks open so presumable the driver's side key and interior lock override this which is why I could get the car to lock that way?
Next time, I'll hire you - a day's labour, nice lunch, and a pint at the end and still I'd have money left over!
Payment by food and beer!! Now you're talking my language!
Always glad to help - trouble is it's often difficult to do so remotely 'cos you often need to keep coming back with questions as you sort the info out in your head. Competing with this is the 'customers' need to get the fault fixed asap 'cos it's causing bother.
hi I have had the same problem with this lock bounce thing, however mine does work in extremes of cold or heat so usually its ok in winter or the heights of summer. This led me to think it has to be mechanical as the mech must be expanding or contracting, today I was fiddling around with this to no avail. I came on this site for hints and tips and found about the kick panel thing. I took it off and seen all the wires behind it pushed some connectors and just by co-incidence tried the fob to lock- I have now a fully working system, it would appear the kick plate plastic thing was pushing on something causing the fault. Hope this helps !
Back in May you had this article which revealed a problem with potentially exploding airbags affecting certain Toyota, Honda and Nissan cars. http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/news/miscellaneous/2015-05/huge-number-of-uk-cars-involved-in-exploding-airbag-recall/