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COOLANT: How long does it last and which type should I use?  (FAQs)
It's therefore recommended to refill or top-up with a coolant which is either approved by manufacturers or meets their requirements. If motorists don’t, there is the risk of mixing two different types of coolant and, at best, significantly reducing or, at worst, cancelling out the protective properties of both coolants. -
OIL CHANGES: How often should I change the oil in my car? (FAQs)
Change the manual gearbox oil once after the first 12 to 18 months, or 10,000 to 15,000 miles, if this is possible. Change the coolant every 3 years if it is an MEG coolant, or every 4 years if it is an MPG coolant. Change the brake fluid every 2 years unless it is Dot 5 silicon brake fluid (unlikely on a mass-produced car). -
COOLING SYSTEM AIRLOCKS: How do I get rid of an engine cooling system airlock?  (FAQs)
When you get home, leave the engine running and VERY SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY AND USING A BIG RAG OR TOWEL, release the expansion tank pressurecap just enough to let any air out, but close it cagain before coolant comes out. With a bit of luck, that should get rid of the airlock. -
STORING A CAR: How should I prepare my car for long term storage? (FAQs)
If it records light, you need to remove the bulb, Have the oil and filter changed. Make sure the coolant corrosion inhibitors have not degraded (they usually have after 3 - 4 years, so have the coolant changed). If the car has ABS, make sure the brake fluid has been changed within the past two years or the ABS pump could suffer internal corrosion from moisture absorbed by the fluid. -
GARAGE SERVICING: How can I find a reputable garage  to service or repair my car? (FAQs)
It will look like new, the punter won't know any difference and the garage will save 15 minutes obtaining the new filter from stores and fitting it, plus, of course, the cost of the filter. The Fluids Overfill Charge the customer for an quantity of oil, coolant, ATF, gearbox oil, brake fluid, etc over and above what the car will actually take. Very few punters ever spot this and if they do, tell them it's a clerical error, revise the invoice and refund them the extra money. 99 times out of 100 you'll never have to. -
DPFs: What are they and why do they go wrong? (FAQs)
Engine running since start for longer than 2 minutes. b.) Calculated saturation higher than 80%. c.) Coolant temperature over 70°C for at least 2 minutes. d.) No DPF-relevant faults stored in system. e.) A defined vehicle speed threshold must have been exceeded (e.g. for >80% loading, 100 km/h) Question: Under what conditions is regeneration interrupted/ended once it has started?