Dynamic,
as far as I know it's the factory fit.
Not sure of make without checking, which I'm not gonna do right now in my very attractive nightwear/dressing gown etc!
It seems like it must be the poor aerial connection, because (lo and behold) I HAVE sussed out which button to press to change from FM to MW and even to LW. None of them do anything apart from FM, though. Your cynicism about my Astra buttons has gone too far now ;)
I've done the ULM or something similar, again without checking not sure about order of letters but I'd bet my bottom dollar that your order is right!
Is there anything I can do about a poor aerial connection, assuming that is the case? Strangely, radio (FM) worked perfectly until last few days, now I find that in certain situations it's way too hissy to hear it. Blamed it on weather at first, but now....?
Ah well, not important but interested in anything else you have to say about it, Dynamic
Thanks
HF
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HF, remind me again, is your Astra a hatchback or estate?
If hatch, then give the telescopic aerial a good wiping with a wd40 soaked rag/tissue. Also lower and raise a few times and wipe again.
If estate, then you've probably got a "b-sting" aerial on the roof. I think it was Dave the Taxi suggesting in another thread to unscrew the aerial and make sure the threads are nice and clean.
Other than that, your best bet is to seek help from a car audio specialist.
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HF, remind me again,
You don't remember??? Dynamic, you are slipping up ;)
It's an estate, don't know what a 'b-sting' aerial is but I'll try as suggested.
It's a Grundig stereo, btw.
Thanks DD,
HF
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You don't remember??? Dynamic, you are slipping up ;) It's an estate,
I thought it was, but wasn't 100% sure.
don't know what a 'b-sting' aerial is
Picture here tinyurl.com/4ikp
It's a Grundig stereo, btw.
Thought it was. Same as Philips, just a different lable on the front.
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Picture here tinyurl.com/4ikp
That doesn't really look like my one - mine has a much broader base that then tapers in. Still, I'll try unscrewing it and see what happens.
HF
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>> Picture here tinyurl.com/4ikp >> That doesn't really look like my one
That was just a picture of the mast when it's unscrewed from the base. I couldn't find a pic of the base on the same site.
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>> Picture here tinyurl.com/4ikp >> That doesn't really look like my one
An afterthought has just occured to me. You saying it doesn't really look like that. Maybe some toerag has nicked the aerial mast (in the above picture link) that screws in and left you with just the base. As a test when I left work tonight I unscrewed mine - could still get FM, albeit it poorer reception, but no MW or LW reception, only static from the engine. Another thought is that these aerials have an amplifier built in somewhere that is powered from the radio. Maybe it's that that's not working properly.
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Dynamic, I'm really embarrassed now :(
When I unscrewed it, it was exactly like the one in the picture, I hadn't realised there was a separate base. The thread, if you meant the screw-in bit, which is all I could see, seemed clean enough.
Tried also to tune in MW manually - but just get a whole load of static hissing noises. It's true that it won't tune from the auto-search thing, though, just keeps on and on searching. But even when I clicked onto some known MW frequencies, just got the hissing.
FM, today, btw, seemed to work fine. Does this mean that your suggestion of a car audio person is what I'll need to do? If so I'll just have to put up with it, for now at least.
HF
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Dynamic, I'm really embarrassed now :( When I unscrewed it, it was exactly like the one in the picture, I hadn't realised there was a separate base. The thread, if you meant the screw-in bit, which is all I could see, seemed clean enough.
Volvoman was right. You don't wash the car very often do you :o) It's made to be unscrewed so that car washes don't mangle it.
Does this mean that your suggestion of a car audio person is what I'll need to do?
Well you've exhausted my ideas on what else to suggest. The only thing left to try before calling seeking an expert is to remove the radio from the dash and make sure the aerial plug is fimly connected into the back of the set. However that is easier said than done. The radio is housed inside a cage, and when you remove the radio the electrics and aerial plug remain in the cage and the radio unit comes out separately. You would have to also remove the cage from the dash and then refit the radio to see if all the plugs and sockets marry up snugly.
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Volvoman was right. You don't wash the car very often do you :o) It's made to be unscrewed so that car washes don't mangle it.
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In mitigation, I could say that from this forum I've learned not to use car washes, but to do it yourself. And I would be most careful not to mangle aerial whilst washing! (I really didn't know they could be unscrewed, though, have often wondered how people with older cars manage to get through car washes, whilst those with new cars can just push the zap button and aerial disappears for a while).
Well you've exhausted my ideas on what else to suggest. The only thing left to try before calling seeking an expert is to remove the radio from the dash and make sure the aerial plug is fimly connected into the back of the set. However that is easier said than done. The radio is housed inside a cage, and when you remove the radio the electrics and aerial plug remain in the cage and the radio unit comes out separately. You would have to also remove the cage from the dash and then refit the radio to see if all the plugs and sockets marry up snugly.
Errrrm - fitted pull-in/pull-out stereo successfully to old R5 - but feel this is probably somewhat beyond my capabilities! Might give it a try sometime if I feel brave enough, but in the meantime I'll put up with FM or hiss! If I DO try it, though, (sorry this is probably stupid question) am I in danger of electrocution without the appropriate tools and knowledge, or, since it only runs off the car battery, is it relatively safe?
Thanks, as always, Dynamic,
HF
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those with new cars can just push the zap button
Is that a techical term :o)
If I DO try it, though, am I in danger of electrocution without the appropriate tools and knowledge.
No risk of electrocution, but as always when tinkering with the cars electrics, disconnect the battery first. BUT before you do decide to, make sure you have the radio security code available.
Now I am really off to bed, as mentioned in the Telly tubby post.
Night night HF.
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Dynamic, I thought we'd already gone to bed. Shows how addictive this place can be that I came back for 'just one more look'!!!
Of course, zap button is a techical term or anything that I don't know the real word for ;)
Ok, I'll have to ask you tomorrow about disconecting the battery and where I get the radio security code from (is there a zap button that will do this for me?) If I didn't disconnect the battery, then would this be dangerous?
I'm off too now, good night Dynamic and take care
HF
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where I get the radio security code from
If the previous owner didn't give it to you, then you'll have to obtain from Vauxhall. They have a networked database. Of course this only applies if the word CODE briefly displays when you turn the radio on and the ignition is also on. If CODE doesn't display then someone has disabled the security code.
If I didn't disconnect the battery, then would this be dangerous?
Only if you were to short wires together. From past experience of either blowing fuses, or much worse, knackering equipment to the "beyond economical repair" stage, best to disconnect the battery.
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Morning Dynamic,
If the previous owner didn't give it to you, then you'll have to obtain from Vauxhall. They have a networked database. Of course this only applies if the word CODE briefly displays when you turn the radio on and the ignition is also on. If CODE doesn't display then someone has disabled the security code.
The word CODE doesn't appear when I turn the radio on with ignition on).
Only if you were to short wires together. From past experience of either blowing fuses, or much worse, knackering equipment to the "beyond economical repair" stage, best to disconnect the battery.
OK I'll bear that in mind if I decide to give it a go. Not at all sure yet that it's within my capabilities, though, sounds complicated.
HF
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Oh, and something else that happens too, more and more frequently - when I'm listening to a station, the auto-tuning thing will suddenly start up on its own and change me to another station - don't know it this is relevant but it's very anoying!
HF
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HF,
One of two things,
1. if the "TP" button has been selected but the station doesn't do Traffic Broadcasts then the radio will scan for the next station that does. If "TP" on the display flashes then the station doesn't support traffic reports.
2. if the signal is weak and you've got RDS selected, the radio will scan for the next best signal. Press the "RDS" button to prevent it auto tuning.
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HF has a 10 year old, base model Astra. If this is the factory stereo, I'd be very surprised indeed if it has RDS.
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DavidHM,
You could be right.
In that case it will be the "TP" button that's causing the problem then.
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One of two things, 1. if the "TP" button has been selected but the station doesn't do Traffic Broadcasts then the radio will scan for the next station that does. If "TP" on the display flashes then the station doesn't support traffic reports. 2. if the signal is weak and you've got RDS selected, the radio will scan for the next best signal. Press the "RDS" button to prevent it auto tuning.
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I think it's BOTH, Dynamic! I didn't know what the TP button was for, btw (surprise surprise) but I'm impressed it knows which stations do traffic reports!
Also, though, the RDS button seems a bit dodgy - it's sort of semi stuck in, so pushing it doesn't always do anything, and I suspect maybe it connects itself due to car movement or something. The TP sometimes displays itself when I push the RDS, too, so I think there must be something a little mixed up in there.
Thanks as always
HF
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Ah, didn't see DavidHM's and Dynamic's posts before posting mine. But, as above, I do have the RDS, although I wish I didn't!
HF
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I think the TP is displayed to let you know the station supports traffic reports. It's then up to you if you press the button or not. If you do press the button and TP flashes it means the station don't support traffic reports (or the signal is too weak) and it'll self scan to the next station that does.
With regard to the RDS connecting itself due to car movement, I think its more a case of the stations preset in buttons one to six. If you want to listen to a weak station without the RDS on, switch off the RDS, tune the station frequency, then store into one of the six presets by pressing and holding one of the buttons until you hear a beep. Next time you press that button it will remember that you don't want the RDS on for that particular station.
I take it you don't have a handbook for the radio?
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No, Dynamic, well spotted, I don't have a handbook for the radio!
I have, however, already stored my preferred stations into the 6 presets, using manual tuning. (no beep, btw, but it seemed to store ok) So maybe it's the TP after all - I'll keep an eye on it now that I know what it is. (yeah I know, and probably crash the car whilst watching TP display!)
I think I should rename this thread 'not so quick radio question'...
HF
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I think I should rename this thread 'not so quick radio question'...
I was just thinking the same thing.
What model rad/cassette is it? At a guess SC201, SC301, or is it the later CAR300 or CAR400?
If you want, I can scan my handbook and let you have a copy when we get around to exchanging email addy's.
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What model rad/cassette is it? At a guess SC201, SC301, or is it the later CAR300 or CAR400?
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Actually SC303 - just went out to check it.
If you want, I can scan my handbook and let you have a copy when we get around to exchanging email addy's.
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That's very kind of you Dynamic, thanks, that would be really helpful.
HF
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>> At a guess SC201, SC301, Actually SC303 - just went out to check it.
Hmmm, my memory is not what it was. That's what was fitted to my Cavalier.
Anyway, I'll dig out the manual. It'll probably be for the later stereo's (CAR300, CAR400,etc), but the principles will be the same.
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It won't be the external aerial - that is FM only. MW and LW will have a carbon rod aerial inside the stereo itself. Might be a daft point, but MW (and LW even more so) are directionally sensitive - in other words, you might not be able to pick it up well with you car facing one way, but will in another.
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SteveH42,
That only applies to portable radios and home hi-fi's. Car radios rely on an external aerial for all radio bands - they won't have a carbon rod aerial inside them.
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Hmmm... The few I've taken to pieces had a carbon rod inside them... I also though that the external aerial was the wrong length to pick up MW and LW - not long enough to reliably catch the wave.
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Hmmm... The few I've taken to pieces had a carbon rod inside them...
Cars still needed aerials when only AM & LW sets were fitted. I can remember on some older radios there was a tuning screw so as to tune the radio to the aerial. FM only really took off in the mid to late 80's when some of the popular stations started leaving AM in favour of FM. I can still remember the Radio 1 jingle, "275 and 285 - Radio 1", when they broadcast on AM.
I also though that the external aerial was the wrong length to pick up MW and LW - not long enough to reliably catch the wave.
No idea about that. My knowledge is more based on the mechanical internal workings than what aerial lengths are required. Maybe though that is why amplifiers are needed for the b-sting aerials and aerials incorperated in heated rear windows.
Percy, do you still lurk here? Care to add any comments?
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No idea about that. My knowledge is more based on the mechanical internal workings than what aerial lengths are required.
I can't give exact figures as I can't remember the equations (Electromagnetics never was my favourite subject at uni) but essentially wave length has a direct relation to frequency. The lower the frequency, the longer the wave. (Hence Long Wave having lower frequencies than Medium Wave and Short Wave) Aerials either need to be close to the wave length or a fraction of it. Carbon rod aerials get around this by having a long piece of wire wrapped around a short rod.
Other ideas could be a ground loop I suppose, but it does sound odd that FM works but MW not - it's more usually the other way around. As a thought, does FM reception get better when you put the aerial on? If not then that would be a sign of a dodgy connection somewhere.
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Other ideas could be a ground loop I suppose, but it does sound odd that FM works but MW not - it's more usually the other way around. As a thought, does FM reception get better when you put the aerial on? If not then that would be a sign of a dodgy connection somewhere.
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Reception gets much worse with aerial off. In fact no reception at all, other than from Radio 1. Although, reception is pretty bad anyway this morning, even with aerial on. This seems to vary from day to day and from place to place.
HF
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FM only really took off in the mid to late 80's when some of the popular stations started leaving AM in favour of FM. I can still remember the Radio 1 jingle, "275 and 285 - Radio 1", when they broadcast on AM.
That brings back a few memories....but it was broadcast on 247m
long before moving to 275 and 285 !
Now you are all making me feel very old
Ian L.
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