One rotation of the pump will feed all cylinders as it is driven at half engine speed. You should have marked the position of the old pump before you removed it but its not difficult to set up.

Set it at about half way initially, it should start there, if its difficult to start, runs quietly and smokes, advance it by say 1/16" and try again. To advance turn it in the opposite direction to engine rotation or clockwise looking from the rear. If it knocks more loudly than usual it needs retarding a little.

I have just noticed that yours is a 2001 so will have some electronic control, the method I have outlined is for a purely mechanical pump but I think it should work.

Is it not possible to see where the original pump was fitted?

As promised a note as I now have the engine running. The original reason I removed the fuel pump was the engine failing to start and no apparent signs of diesel at the injectors. I now know the fuel pump was NOT 'faulty', 200 quid to prove it! Faulty immobiliser they (AF Jones Disel repair specialists in Manchester) said. OK that said when you remove the pump the timing belt comes off - hence you loose the pump timing BUT the pump has a built in static (for want of a better way of saying it setting) two timing holes (one a 12 o'clock the other 6 o'clock) I set it at 12 and with a hefty squirt of Easy start it is back to life (although it feels a little to crisp/rattly at the minute). Not sure as the whether I'm brave enough to shove the sprocket around to the 2pm where I'm sure it was when I took it off!

But that life was so easy! (to adjust timing that is by putting a tyre lever in) Nah my pump is bolted through from the sprocket side through the casing and into the pump body that in turn isn't slotted! There is some leeway by easing the three sprocket retaining bolts and then turning the sprocket on it's slot, that said it'll only give me about 5 degrees - but every little helps as they say, will try turning (effectively) the sprocket anti - clockwise (when viewed from the sprocket side) - this will move the pump flange at the back closer to my white paint dollop on the casing at 2pm. (when the engines at TDC) - The water pump has decided to leak now (no surprise there as you cannot lock the pump sprocket up when you take the pump off) and how the heck do you get the timing belt covers on - what a devil.

Success! The fork on the fuel pump sprocket & the rear flange aligning with the 12 o'clock timing mark in the fuel pump body (it's a 8mm hole pre drilled by Lucas) does provide the basic static injection setting. Fine adjustment is achieved by loosening the three 13mm sprocket retaining bolts and sliding/turning the rear flange clockwise (it retards the ignition) RESULT fires on 1st turn of the key once the glow plug light goes out! Even the water pump has stopped dripping - rejoice!