Thanks, everyone, for the advice. We have replaced the offending motor with a Maplin one, (parts - £10.25 delivered to the door, labour - cups of tea and encouragement) and it now works with a very business-like 'clunk', while all the others do that double sound still. Hopefully we will be okay for a while!! Happy motoring in 2003!
Jean
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Went in Maplin shop, in Sheffield, today (January sales an' all that), had to go out and come back in again, I could not believe it. The central locking solenoids were £7.99 inc VAT each (not sale price, normal price) and a whole Universal 4 door kit, including 2 solenoids with switches (front doors), 2 solenoids without switches (rears), control unit and miles of wires and all the connectors and brackets was only £14.99, YES £14.99, this is the normal price not January sale price. I asked the sales assistant to check the price and promptly bought one. I am an impulse shopper, I don't really need one, but at this price I could not walk away. So if you do need one (Universal, fits any car) Maplin is the place.
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code YD77J? still £49.99 on their website (and in the 2000 catalogue I have). Could be they are planning to discontinue these and have reduced the price to clear them?
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I like the solid 'clunk' of the aftermarket kits rather than the wheezy double whirr of the Rover system!
Gives me a sense of security!
Might have to look into these CDL motors from Maplin - might save us some ££ on our sales cars! We usually have to fit one or two to each 100/Metro that goes through the reconditioning process before sale.
MG-Rover Problems? Click on forums.mg-rover.org
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I would entirely agree with you Dave. I assume the astmatic wheeze you are refering to is that made by the Mitsui latch fitted to all Rovers since about 1989 (except the 75 and 95-on R800s). When I was involved (on the sidelines) with the development of Rovers C-type latch I always argued that customers prefered to hear a decent ker-chunk so they could tell the car was locked when they used their radio remote as they were walking away. I was at odds with a posse of Chief Engineers who believed the near-silent pneumatic Audi/Merc systems to be the "Best-in-Class" at the time (around 92 to 94). They argued that the sill buttons provided visual indication that the car had locked, whereas I argued that users didn't want to have to look but would prefer to use the multidirectional sense of hearing. The C-type went into production in New Range Rover with a satisfying ker-chunk-chink - I just love the noise they make in my R800VS, I can tell it's locked properly even from behind the closed garage door.
BTW - do you have any idea why MGR never fitted the C-type into R25 and R45? It wouldn't have taken much effort (it was designed to replace the Mitsui) and would work wonders for these cars security (which is poor).
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Cyd
Yes, Code YD77, Branded Nikkai.
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Update on price of Maplin Central locking kit, went in shop today and its gone up to £24.99, it must have been priced wrongly before. Still a bargain though eh ?
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This kit (YD77J) from Maplin is now £49.99 in the shops and on the web but do you need all the parts in the kit to get each door working or do you need just the solinoid or ??? as all the parts are available seperately it might work out cheaper, I have only one door working now on my 100 and is it really that easy to fit, i.e. 1 hour per door ??
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Hi, no you only need the individual motors for each door concerned. The part number for Maplins being YD79L, depending on which doors they are for on your Rover 100. What year is your car and am I right to assume that it is only the drivers door that now works on your car? I also assume that you are fairly sure that it is the three motors that are knackered and not something else such as a wiring fault. Did the three pack up at the same time or did they pack up one at a time? Let me know the answers to these questions and I will be a wiser as to what advice/parts you need to fix your car. And yes they are fairly easy to fit. If you are pretty competent while fiddling with bits and pieces on cars or diy, then about an hour a door will be about right.
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Thanks for this, my car is M reg and the only door working is the passenger front door, I use the key for the drivers side so when I press the key fob to disable the alarm only the one door unlocks all the others I have to do manually and they have slowly gone individually over time, I had Rover replace a couple some time ago and they went again so it was costing a fortune so I have just left it unitil I could find a cheaper alternative.
Any help and advice is much appreciated.
Cheers
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If you have looked on the Maplin website at the page where the motors are sold seperately, then you will have probably noticed that there is a two wire version and a five wire version of these locking motors. The five wire motor is what is known as the master motor and this controls what the other central locking motors on the car do. Now on your Rover 100/Metro there should be in one of the front doors the five wire master motor. Now I don't know which door it is fitted in but I would guess that it will be in the drivers door. In the other front door and the two rear doors there will be fitted just the basic two wire version locking motors. Unless anyone else can tell us about which door the master motor is in, then you may have to strip the trim off the drivers door and have a look. If you do strip the trim off all you have to do is look at the locking motor and count the number of wires going into it. Once we have worked out which motors you need to buy I will send you an e-mail with detailed instructions on how to fit the motors. My e-mail address is: milnes@overseal.freeserve.co.uk
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Cheers for all your help and advice, I have replied to this via your e-mail address to gave, you can reply direct to me on aidan.griffin@soundcraft.com
Cheers
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Hello all!
I'm experiencing similar problems to those mentioned here. I have an 'N' reg Rover Kensington, 100 SE.
My problem is with the drivers side central locking. My handheld remote 'plip' will open the passenger side (with a rather weak and not to convincing sound) but not the drivers' side.
After reading coments from this thread, I decided to go take my inside door panel off to have a look. I have the 5 wire set up (2 orange, 2 pink and 1 black) motor.
Could anyone out there confirm that the part I need to replace is in the Maplins catalogue, item YD78K? (5W). Would I need to purchase any other parts other than this?
maplin.co.uk/
Sorry if this is treding over old ground, any help would me much appreciated though.
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Yes you are correct that the part you need from Maplins is number YD78K (the 5 wire version). You don't need any other major parts than this apart from a few crimp on terminals or something similar to join the wires up with. You will find that the coloured wires on the new motor are different colours to the original Rover items. When you wire the new motor in you need need to join up:
(New Motor) - (Loom on Car)
White - Pink/Purple
Green - Pink
Blue - Orange
Brown - Orange/Purple
Black - Black
The fitting of the motor should be fairly easy as it is almost identical to the original Rover item. I also tend to ignore the new fittings supplied with the new motors and use the original ones. The only other thing you may have to do is enlarge the hole slightly that the operating arm goes into on the new Maplin motor as it can sometimes be a little too small for the operating arm.
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Cheers Simon.
That's answered what I wanted to know and then some.I'm typing this with the old motor sitting in front of me which I removed not 5 minutes ago with no trouble at all.
I'll nip down Maplins now I think, and pick up the crimping set from work in the morning. Hopefully Bob will be my mothers brother by this time Tuesday.
Thanks again!
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After my original post here, I ended up...
...cutting back the 5 wires from the old motor/actuator so as to keep the male part of the plug in tact. Then, using Simons wiring guide, soldered wires from the new Maplins motor/actuator (£9.99) to the wires from the old male plug (using inulation tape after).
The only problem I came across was mounting the new Maplins motor/actuator onto the existing bracket from my Metro. The holes of the motor/actuator did not line up with the old bracket, and had to weld on an extenion plate, redrilling the holes to mount(making sure the motor went up and down in the same plane as the original).
I also used a 5.5mm drill bit to make the nylon hole slightly bigger.
That was my experience anyways, and took less than 24 hours from taking the door paneling off, buying the new motor/actuator, modifying the bracket, and wiring/fitting the new motor/actuator. Now my central locking on the drivers side makes a lovely 'CLUNKING' noise now and works as good as old.
It was all rather enjoyable, and knowing that I'd saved myself a few quid on the way was nice too.
Cheers!
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Apologies in advance if I'm retreading old ground here, but I was interested to know whether or not the post earlier regarding the locks unlocking/alarm sounding was solved my replacing the master motor. My partner has just bought a lovely 95 111Sli which had an issue with a reluctant driver side lock when she picked it up - It would sometimes take a few attempts to get the door to actually lock even though the passenger side and boot worked fine. This has recently become more serious in that the car will regularly unlock and sound the alarm, even with nobody near. If you're lucky this will happen as soon as you lock it so you can reset it yourself but its not uncommon for it to go off in the middle of the night.
Our local Rover dealers (bless 'em) said that they'd 'never heard of this happening before' and that we should take it in for their electricians to have a look, but given their prices I'd rather not. I'm also slightly concerned that they claim not to have come across what appears to be a common fault...
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated :)
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Is it manual locking, i.e. with the key in the lock, or remote control, i.e. press button ?. If it is Remote control then it may be the receiver or alarm module that is faulty causing voltage fluctuations to trigger the lock. If it is Manual locking then it could possibly be the drivers door lock that needs lubrication, the connection between the lock switch and the lock solenoid (possibly via a relay or fuse) or the door solenoid itself. Another possibility is low battery voltage (duff battery).
P.s. Another possibility is that someone is actually trying to break in to it during the night ;)
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Hehe..
We've stood talking near the car, and heard it unlock itself and sound the alarm so I can more or less rule that final possibility out :)
It often triggers when you first use the remote to lock it - the driver side door button will sluggishly creep downwards (often with a slight jump at the end of its travel) and then all the doors will unlock immediately, sounding the alarm. I was wondering about a fault in the master CDL motor because of the incorporated alarm switch, and the sluggish lock action on that side. Apparently it's been like that for some time (according to the previous owner) although we discovered that that driver side lock has also been replaced at some point - she was given a different key when she bought it, but had never actually tried it and relied solely on the remote..
We still have to try locking it with the key alone - when you lock it by pushing the door button, the CDL activates anyway, so you're back to square one. The battery is also fairly new, and as far as I can tell is in pretty decent shape.
That has given me a few more possibiities to poke and prod at though, so thanks! :)
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It'll be the driver's side CDL motor/switch unit playing up :-)
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one of those maplin kits does the job nicely. But can get cheaper same one off internet
eg
cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2418...9
replace the whole lot if it keeps giving grief...doing the first door is the hardest since got to work out where to put.
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Yup, thats exactly what it was. I replaced the motor the other day and it\'s sorted everything out. The alarm now *doesn\'t* set when you lock the door with the key (which is did before for some bizarre reason, even though it isn\'t supposed to), using the key works every time rather than jamming on occasions, and the lock action is far more positive than before. Thanks for all the feedback folks!
Next time I\'ll work out an easier way of hooking that metal clip onto the motor as well... ;)
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Just a quick thank you to all. I went out and got replacement cdl or actuators from Maplin today. Got a kit from Nikkai with 2 5w and 2 2w cdls for 29.99. I got home after 4pm and had replaced the lot before 8pm. The rear doors is as straight forward as removing the old one and installing the new one. The front doors I simply sopped the brackets from the driver to the passenger door and visa versa. Drilled a few new holes and voila. Oh yes the nilon piston need a 5.5mm hole for the metal clip to fit trough.
Again thank you to everyone that has gathered this info. My locking now works fine, and that for 30 quid instead of 300 the mechanics wanted. Now only need to find an affordable replacement remote.
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Anybody out there who knows how to avoid £117 for a key fob immobilisor for an N reg 100 ??? Can the immobilisor be removed so that I can put in one which isnt going to cost me a fortune.
ps if anyone has such a remote that isnt working it is worth trying the following...take unit apart (avoid touching chip inside) and look carefully at battery connections - the act of pressing the buttons can cause a breakage in these, but can be repaired with a piece of foil. Unfortunatly mine is now beyond repair.
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I have a Rover 115SD which sadly came without central locking, as the past 3 cars i have owned had it fitted I am missing it badly.
I recently purchased the maplin cdl kit (4 door) and took off door panel in the front drivers side to fit the motor wherever I offered it up to stopped the window from opening fully. After reading this forum and see that some of you have accomplished this could someone PLEASE tell me where the motors can be mounted so as to allow the window to open. a diagram or photo would be appreciated.
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I have the site admin of rover100.co.uk to thank for this tip:
Maplin changed the spec of the replacement units slightly - the metal ring that connects the motor unit to the lock was rotated through 90 degrees around its axis. The unit itself is equally slim along its width, but is sort of pear-shaped (work with me here..) depth-wise, so the added thickess will foul the window if you mount it as normal. You need to mount it inside the door with the side of the motor facing you rather than the thin edge.
The trick is to heat up the metal rod between the connecting loop and the motor body, and then twist it around through 90 degree while it's warm. You can them mount the motor sideways on under the window channel and it shouldn't get in the way :)
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I can't believe how this thread re-appears every now and again!
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Thanks for the info Simon.
I have just bought a Maplins 5 wire door lock, but can you e-mail any wiring instructions as none came with the soleniod
Thanking you Benji
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Hello, I am amazed at what a common problem this is.
Mine as a slight variation on the above probs,, so wondering if anyone can give me some advice please.
My boot lid light on the dashboard stays on, as has doen for ages, a few months ago the central locking starting playing up, I don't think it was at the same time that they stopped working. The car's keyfob buttons have stopped working long ago, so I manually use the key to lock/unlock the door.
I lock the door and then the door immediately unlocks itself, it usually takes a couple of attempts to lock the door, but once locked it stays locked.
The alarm/immobiliser is activated and deactivated with the key locking/unlocking action. This was a problem for months, but I lived with it. But now its got worse.
When I unlock the door the central locking does not kick in, the drivers door manually unlocks, but the alarm does not deactivate so you can't go anywhere. I have to stand there for ages locking and unlocking the door until it eventually kicks in and unlocks the door, deactivating the alarm in the process.
So, my question is do you think this is related to the boot mechanism? Or the actual central locking mechanism, I haven't got loads of money to experiment or change all the central locking over just in case, so any help you guys can give would be much appreciated.
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