">> I wipe a thin coating on my lawnmower blade at the start of every seasonand it stops the grass clippings sticking to it. Stays immaculately clean all summer.
Will definitely try that DP - if it works, it's the tip of the year!"
Seconded. I usually wipe the blade with 3in1 after the last cut of the summer/autumn to prevent rust but have never tried this tip.
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Any fishermen out there, don't laugh. I read in one of the angling mags years ago. If your not getting any bites spray the bait with WD40. Well i was struggling on the coast one winter fishing for what was left of the cod, so i gave the big fat juicy lugworm a spray of WD 20 mins later a 3 pounder landed. I tried this quite a few times but it only worked this once. Apparently the smell can be traced by the fish.
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>>Any fishermen out there, don't laugh>>
It's quite true.
WD40 is fine for the purpose intended (there are various alternative choices at a fraction of the price), but there are far more useful alternatives such as EasyGrease or Slick50 (both in aerosol form) which will (dry) lubricate without causing problems by messing up your or others' hands or clothes.
Both are brilliant for use with locking mechanisms on car locks, double glazed doors etc and the lubrication properties are effective for a considerable period of time.
Edited by Stuartli on 17/01/2010 at 23:27
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Never put WD40 in a lock mechanism - use only dry graphite, spraying WD40 into a lock will strip out any remaining proper lubricant and although solving a short term problem will ultimately lead to early wear.
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en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wd40
All the mysteries explained here - well most of them.
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The Wikipedia site says the same sort of thing about penetrating oil as you say about WD-40. So what's best for lubricating, say, a Yale lock, without taking it to bits?
In an ideal world you want oil in a spray can - but I presume that any proper lubricant would be too thick for that.
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Dry graphite - I worked in an Ironmongers after schools and Holidays sort of thing - learnt a lot of stuff there, one was use dry graphite for locks. The WD40 ban on locks came from a chap that came to fit my front door - a craftsman of the old school he told me never to use it on a lock as he pressed a small container of dry graphite into my hand...
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Thanks. Now to find an old-fashioned ironmonger who will know what dry graphite is.
I'd imagine that in the DIY chains the average assistant (if you can find one) will think that graphite is what people write on walls.
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...So what's best for lubricating, say, a Yale lock, without taking it to bits?...
As PU says, it's graphite for locks.
An old tip is to get a soft pencil and run that over the key a few times.
Put the key in the lock, and repeat a couple of times - works a treat.
Pencils are graphite, not lead, as I'm sure most of you know.
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Now there's an idea. Your pen-name is spot-on!
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I'm avoiding the obvious comment.
Good tip - I'd forgotten that one. I could cut keys at one time....surprising the life skills you pick up earning a crust.
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"I could cut keys at one time"
Didn't you suck your teeth and say 'Haven't got the blanks mate....' ?
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>>Never put WD40 in a lock mechanism
I've been giving the household door locks and catches an annual squirt of WD40 for years.
Point taken, though.
Clk Sec
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>>>>Never put WD40 in a lock mechanism
That brings to mind a uPVC door that was already quite old about 12 years ago when it's one top and one bottom shoot-bolts seized.
I called in a repair specialist who advised me to buy a new door, which I ignored. Instead , over the next few days I sprayed generous amounts of WD40 from top to bottom, which eventually freed the mechanism, and I have sprayed it annually ever since.
I do take PU's point, but what other product could I have used as an alternative here?
Clk Sec
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But this example of a use, freeing the bolts is one use WD-40 has - it penetrates and helps free the bolts in question. But it is perhaps not the best lubricant for this once it was freed up.
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PU >> Dry graphite.An old tip is to get a soft pencil and run that over the key a few times.
Been wondering about this for a big coffee grinder with fine brass thread running in threaded alloy body. The foodsafe grease is sticky and holds grounds eventually gunking up the adjustment mechanism. Pencils I'm wary of using as they include more or less china clay grit (or is the softest grade pure graphite?). So can I ask what form the pure graphite is sold in? Can you still get it? Thanks
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