Hi
My son bought a 106 Zest 1.1 (S-Reg) and now it has a problem which I can't solve.
We noticed the car was overheating from the radiator cap.
On closer inspection I realised the cooling fan was never coming on.
So after a series of tests I found that the fan was good, radiator fan switch is good but the top hose was never getting hot, thus the switch never activating and therefore not turning fan on.
I assumed thermostat problem and REPLACED this but i made no difference.
Running the car - coolent gets hot, top hose cold - over heats.
I'm now thinking water pump? But I can't even find it on the car, the Haynes manual is next to useless.
I understand head gasket is also a contender - but no visible water trace in oil.
Just read about K-Seal - would you recommend using this regardless??
Also air lock possibility? - I've run it for ages with radiator cap off, it just eventually boiled over.
I'm at a loss - any ideas?
Many thanks.
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I've just had a similar problem with a '98 1.4 8v Corsa, the engine was boiling yet the rad/top hose was cold and the fan wasn't cutting in. Tried thermostat, water pump, flushing the radiator all to no avail. In the end we replaced the head gasket despite there being no signs of it having failed and that did the trick! Everything back to normal, fan operation fine, all ok. Also the 'TU' engine in those Peugeots/Citroens of that era are prone to head gasket faliure at around 70,000 miles anyway.
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Thanks - searching on this I have found a product called K-Seal which you pour in the radiator and it claims to seal head gasket leaks.
What are your thoughts on this as an alternative to a replacement?
Also - when trying to find a garage to do a head gasket replacment what sort of costs should I be expecting as reasonable?
Thanks
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I have found a product called K-Seal What are your thoughts on this as an alternative to a replacement?
If you do a forum search, you'll see a mix of positive and negative views.
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I've been in the motor trade 25 years and all the 'magic cures' sound and usually are too good to be true. A head gasket replacement and skim should be about £300 at a small independent garage.
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It sounds more like water pump to me. Will the heater blow hot air?
I would rather do water pump first than head gasket. A compression test or a sniff of the coolant tank for exhaust gases will tell more.
If you don't know the service history of the car then a cambelt change may be due, changing the water pump isn't a lot more work and is good preventative maintainance.
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Don't use sealers - they won't work.
Don't jump to conclusions. If the thermostat is open and the top hose is cold the water isn't circulating. Is the heater getting warm?
On any PSA engine installation, bleeding the cooling system for airlocks is the first job. The procedure varies according to the engine fitted but in some instances it can be helpful to increase the head of coolant at the tank - refer to the manual. Use only PSA coolant.
659.
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but in some instances it can be helpful to increase the head of coolant at the tank - refer to the manual. Use only PSA coolant.
Beat me to it, 659.
When I changed the coolant on our old 106XSi, I had to make a header tank, as the expansion tank is not the highest point on these systems (ISTRC it was built into the side of the rad). If you fill the tank as normal, there's not enough of a head of water to push the coolant all round the system. Air collects at the high points, and the car over heats.
In my case, I used an old, clean 2 litre fizzy drink bottle, cut the bottom off, and screwed it into the filler neck. I then made a seal with some gaffa tape. It only had to hold for 20 seconds or so, and it did the job fine.
Edited by DP on 08/06/2009 at 16:23
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Water pump is driven by the cam belt. Regards Peter
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Many thanks for all the replies.
What I did since previous message:
Flushed coolent system, removed thermostat again and replaced with the old thermostat with the middle cut out!
Refilled system with 50-50% coolent mix. Used Bleed points etc.
Ran engine with radiator cap off for a few minutes watched air bubbles clear.
Then ran on a 20 minute test drive - the overheating has stopped (I know only because I have taken thermo out). I wanted to see the fan cut in but car ran fine - got hot as expected but not overheating.
BUT still not turning fan on and I'm sure it must have got up to 97 degrees (which is fan cut in temp). Top hose hot and pressured.
YES - heater works fine - but with my limited knowledge on this Peugeot 106, isn't the warm cold air simply being taken from different points under bonnet - ie. heating system not connected to coolent system.
Thanks again.
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If the temp got up to 97 with effectively no stat in then it is claose to overheating. How do you know it got to 97. A 99 1.1 Pug does not have a temp gauge. Regards Peter
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I still say it'll be the head gasket, been doing this job too long...
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I was just guessing at temperature - what I meant was the fan is supposed to cut in at 97 degrees and I guessed it must have been as hot as that - but no fan cut in.
I will get head gasket checked.
One question though - If I've removed thermostat and top hose was very hot - head gasket leak or not - why wouldn't the fan come on.
There's no other factors that decide if fan comes on - just water at 97 degrees flowing over the back of that rad fan switch which then shorts out the plug attached to it controlling the fan and turns it on until the temperature drops again.
Puzzled!
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Hello, my knowledge is very limited so dont take my word for it, but maybe also there is the factor of pressure?
Also maybe u should replace the radiator cap.
I wish u best luck.
George.
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I m sorry, forgot to say i agree with jonny10buds because i had similar issue.
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The reason the fan isn't cutting in is because the heat and pressure in the top hose is more than likely hot gasses rather than water. If the top hose is rock hard it's a sure sign the head gasket has gone. I'm starting to sound like a prophet of doom I know but I've had these kind of issues numerous times in my time as a car dealer.
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