Hi and thanks in anticipation,
Rover 820 petrol p reg manual
car abruptly cuts out , it can be on a motorway, or any other road, doesnt seem to be speed
related or engine rev related.
I have changed the crank sensor for a new one, and the coil for a second hand one
from a scrapyard . the scrapyard one seemed to fix the problem but its occuring
again now 3 / 4 weeks later.
car broke down and actually failed to restart in lake district this weekend ,
and i tried the old coil on it in its no-go state but it made no difference,
eventually after a 10 min wait it did restart
any ideas anyone please
thanks Martin N
Moved over from Discussion - PU
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Whist its a long shot the rotor arms give strange & intermitant faults on these but you have to be very carefull changing one as you can snap the end of the cam very easily. Fuel pumps can be quite problomatic & it really needs checking to see if you loose fuel or spark. ECU is relay controlled & would look in that direction as relays quite week
Doc
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cheers for that ,
this car doesnt have a rotor arm ,its the next generation, my trouble is
that i didnt have a strobe with me when it died. out in the lake district and every other time
its restarted straight away, so i realy dont know if its a petrol or spark problem as u say
but i suspect its electric as its an abrupt cut out
so im looking for the ecu and fuel pump relays . but my haynes manual isnt that clear
should i be looking in the fuse relay box next to the ecu and battery??
thanks again
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you need to find out if it is fuel related or electrical for your first port of call otherwise you will end up guessing
i was going to say @@@@ in the tank but guess that wouldnt help really when i re-read it back :-( to myself
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Could be Main Fuel Relay? After it cuts out just feel the relays to see which one is warm.
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cheers
do u know where the fuel pump relay is ? is it the one behind the drivers headlight ?
martin n
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While this is a long shot, it's a quick and cheap thing to check.
I once had a lot of bother with an intermittent cutting out Rover 800. It turned out to be a poor contact at a multi plug in the fuse box under the drivers side dashboard. This must have been quite a long standing fault because there was some black staining around the multi-plug.
It's so long ago, I can't remember the exact model or year, so this may not be of any help to you. But, it costs nowt to have a quick look.
Otherwise, I would suggest following BB's sage advice, the earlier you find out if it's a fuel or spark problem, the sooner you'll fix the fault.
Number_Cruncher
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Two things it could be:
partially blocked MAP sensor tube. This tube goes from under the throttle to the MEMS unit. Take the tube off and spray through it. If it's all gunked up it would be worth removing the MEMS and cleaning out the MAP sensor too. This happened to my Vitesse Sport about 50K ago but the cutting out was at idle i think
dogdy connections in the fuse board. This is a common problem and causes all sorts of electrical gremlins. look on eBay - there's someone who sells recon fuseboards. About an hour to change.
Also remove the throttle body and if it's black inside give it a good clean (gently).
You could always go to a dealer to see if there's any fault codes stored in the MEMS. Surely cheaper than trying lots of things that don't cure it?
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I have now taken the car to have the fault codes read
there were 3 faults
1/ inlet air temperature sensor circuit
2/ fuel rail temperature circuit
3/ throttle potentiometer circuit
so (on Sunday)I fitted a replacement throttle body and potentiometer from a breakers and all was OK till tonight (wednesday) , and it cut out again
so I guess i'm down to the 2 sensors now !!!!
unless I start resoldering the fuse boxes
i've also juggled around all the relays that I can find that prevent the car starting . But one that does worry me is the LHS one in the inside [steering column] fuse box a yellow one that does get VERY HOT and i've exchanged it for another one also yellow and that gets just as hot
thanks again Martin
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also does anyone know how to clear the fault codes without
going to a garage ?
cheers Martin
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The 3 fault codes you have listed will not cause cutting out and/or a non start situation.I would suggest looking at the fuel pump/efi system relay which is usually located near the ecu or on the bulkhead in engine bay.(black plastic body)similar looking to the one behind the headlight which if I recall is the a/c relay.Another posiible is a fault with the inertia/fuel shut off switch which is in engine bay attached to bulkhead .It has a rubber protective cover on the top.Try a temp by-pass ,join both wires together.Fault codes can only be cleared with diag equip,but try disconnecting the battery for 5 mins.hth
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Martin
It's been a long time since I've seen an 800; so forgive me if I've got the wrong year - but I've a feeling that there's a fuelling relay module inside the front bumper, driver's side.
For some odd reason; the plugs corrode....
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latest update
on Friday I bridged the inertia switch, then drove to wales , and the car cut out for a couple of seconds,
on Saturady I took out the fuse box below the steering column and re soldered every joint on the PCB
the car has been OK until today Thursday and it cut out for a couple
of seconds on the motorway
so, should i be re soldering the other fuse box by the battery and ECU?
i have juggled all the relays i can find with known good ones ,to no avail
I'm fast running out of ideas
thanks martin N
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I have now by passed the inertia switch
replaced the spark plugs
and the car ran for 4 days with out cutting out
then it stuttered on thursday
so im thinking of buying a replacement ecu
and getting it recoded
any othe ideas welcome
cheers
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Martin
Have you found the relay pack yet?
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i think ive found all the relays that make the car stop running
and have swapped them out for known good ones
ive found relays
under the steering column by the fuse box
in the engine compartment by the battery and ecu
and two others 1 by drivers headhamp and 1 near the suspension strut and bulkhead
i dont know what they all do because the w/shop manual isnt explicit enough
but ive tried removing them in turn to see if the engine will start with them removed
and then putting in a known good relay, and the running the car until the fault occurs
then moving to the next one
cheers
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Martin
Data is a nightmare on these; Rover swapped bits everywhere between different years/engine codes and fuelling set-ups.
As this is a MEMS system; I'd expect the combo relay pack to be a black plastic, slightly tapered, box about 4"H x3"W x2"D with two big multi-plugs containing 20-odd cables going into the base.
On some years/types this is mounted right in front of the engine ECU on the bulkhead.
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thanks to everyone for their help on this problem
just to give some feedback
It turned out to be the engine management ecu unit , I got a replacement one , of the same code
[1 digit different]
had it coded to the imobiliser ECU and its been fine since
cheers Martin
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