between 1 and 3 minutes
once the fluid has pushed the air out its nip the nipple and everythings done
You can use the same approach for changing brake pipes if you are carefull that way you dont even have to undo nipples as the fluid builds up to the hose then you nip the joint
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If you can't get the pedal really firm, try propping the brake pedal down and leave overnight and then bleed again.
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A gravity bleed is ok, also you can use a syringe with a plastic tube & suck the fluid through these syringes are available at most car autojumbles (plastic no needles etc!)
i have used this method before many times, as well as a gravity bleed & the good old "pump it & hold it down". good luck.
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I agree about the pot of tea but leaving the nipple open is not effective on many models and lets face it the nipple is the lowest part of the system and the flow rate using gravity is not going to shift air out of master cylinders and load balance valves and pressure regs never mind the slaves. Regards Peter
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Thats from experience is it ?
Don't knock older (sorry bellboy) tried and tested methods !
But I do agree it doesn't always work, but can make a big difference on some awkward problems!
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Yes it is from experience, more than fourty years of it and gravity bleeding just can not clear all the air out. It may be effective on some simple systems but in general it is not effective as the flow of fluid is too low to overcome the air bubble that wants to rise. Regards Peter
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I've found combining a few pedal pumps with the pressure from an Easibleed can be quite effective - if care is taken not to damage m/cylinder seals.
The great advantage of trickle bleeding is when replacing single components like a pipe or hose. Leaving deliberate leak points when refilling can prevent air being driven into difficult to bleed components.
Even when replacing calipers etc. trickle bleeding, followed by a quick road test and then a further quick bleed to remove any residue air that's accumulated at the nipple, is very effective.
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thanks for the replys so far guys
ive spotted the 12v bleeder i used sucessfully is on ebay...(search 12v brake bleeder)
can anyone think why the 12v professional version would be so much better/easier...it says you can crack all four nips at once! im thinking a spare tyre cant keep a constant flow going?
and to the easybleed fans....how long /how much fluid would you expect from a single caliper change? maybe i need to spend longer
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oooh and another question to add to the above post
handbrake ...should it be on or off...or not matter?
would there be a issue if i wedge the pedal halfway down while bleeding
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steve
In theory; you should be able to just fill a caliper and lose no fluid at all - in theory....
Handbrakes come in different types; but whichever state [on/off] leaves the wheel cylinder pistons pressed inwards. Usually off.
On angled w/cylinders you'll often need to clamp the pistons together; or at least push the upper one down.
Wedging pedals halfway down while bleeding will probably just block off outlets and mess things up.
Now, if it's got ABS - that's when it can get really tricky! Remote actuation with a scan tool needed on many late cars.
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Thats from experience is it ? Don't knock older (sorry bellboy) tried and tested methods ! But I do agree it doesn't always work but can make a big difference on some awkward problems!
thanks yorkie-------one tries ones best
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I think different cars have different peculiarities, and also it depends why you are needing to do the bleeding.
When replacing a single component I always block the pipes the instant I have removed the old one (eg caliper), bench bled the new unit to get it scavenged of air and full to the brim, plug the hole, and then quickly reconnect. Leave the joint a turn loose, and very gently press the pedal to ease any air out at the joint.
Sometimes there are known stubborn points in the system like pressure-limiting valves, or else sections where the brake lines form an upward loop. where air accumulates. Gravity won't shift a long bubble past that point - it needs a good blast.
But to return to the OQ, I can't see why one pressure bleeder should work better than another. As long as it can move the fluid substantially faster then any air bubble can float back the other way, that ought to be enough. Maybe it just comes back to particular differences in the circumstances - different component, different section in the circuit, different dead-end cavities inside the caliper casting?
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You can get vacuum bleeders that suck the fluid thro'.
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