Having just bought a 1995 Pug 306 turbo diesel for £notmuch I am considering renewing the timing belt and water pump mysalf mainly because I've no idea when it was last done. Have any backroomers done this? I have the Haynes manual which I would follow to the letter although my spannering skills were last used on rebuilding a Cortina engine.
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I would suggest you make sure you have the timing pins & wouldn't recomend you attempt it without. It could test your patience. If you get it wrong it will all be over. Timing & tension are critical!!!!!!!!!
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It's not particularly hard, but it is damn awkward. Book time for belt alone is 3+ hours (more if A/C fitted), so allow at least 1/2 day for your first time. You will need a 22m socket and very good 1/2" drive extension to get the crank pulley bolt out (do it with the engine hot to soften the loctite) and a 16mm deep socket to get the engine mount off. The worst bit is the bolt down the back holding the top cover on - you can only feel it, and it is a different size (11mm) to all the other cover bolts / nuts. Finding the timing hole in the flywheel is fun too - you may well need to remove the starter first time. Very reliable set up though, and there is a spring loaded tensioner so setting the tension is simple. If you want / need to change the tensioner though, the spring becomes a bit more troublesome!
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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I know the crankshaft pulley bolt is big, but it's 22mm not 22m. Not a lot to add to the above, but I've always found that locking the crankshaft with a big screwdriver blade in the ring gear teeth is the only way to stop the engine turning in the absence of a powered impact spanner. Some brave souls put a large ring spanner strategically on the bolt and operate the starter (disable the fuel system first) which will jar the bolt free when the spanner end hits solid ground using the stored energy in the flywheel. I've done this several times, but it's not for the faint hearted.
The belt/tensioner set up is well engineered and gives very little trouble - the idlers are all steel with sealed ball bearings (VAG and others please note). The weak point on these engines is in fact the water pump which is cambelt driven. A failure here could cost you an engine. I would strongly recommend changing this as they are not expensive and there is little extra labour once it's all apart.
Tighten "that" bolt really well using some thread locking compound - if it comes loose, the crank keyway will be damaged. If you take your time, the job is not too bad - I found getting the cover off was the hardest part. Make absolutely sure that the locking pins go in before you dismantle anything fundamental - there are no prizes for getting the timing wrong.
659.
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I will just add that it makes the job easier if you remove the top and bottom engine mounting bolts and jack the engine up a few inches on a piece of wood placed under the sump.
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only other thing to add is, for the cam and fuel pump timing pins the bolts for the intercooler are the correct size so ideal to use, as you can also replace the intercooler seal which quite often fails. the pin for the flywheel i use a 6mm drill bit
chris
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