The stop light will be on until the engine is running, it is basically telling you that engine oil pressure is low and hydraulic oil pressure is low. Both will be resolved when it starts.
If you have left the car for any length of time the suspension will have settled in a low position. The excess fluid will be back in the reservoir.
The LHM level in the reservoir needs to be checked with the engine running and the suspension on its highest setting.
Don't worry if it is a little high.
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Hey there mjm.
Thx for the reply. Are you saying then that easy start into the air intakes is a good idea? Is there a correct procedure for doing this or do I just open the airbox and fill the intakes and try to start it?
Regards, Nick.
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Hey screwloose.
Thx for the reply. I don't know how to check if the glowplugs are powering up, is it just a case of puttimg a multimeter across the caps and measuring a voltage? Or do I pull one and turn the engine over and just see if it glows up? I'm used to working on bikes, deisel cars are new to me, so if you have any suggestions I'm game....
Nick.
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Best to take them out and put 12 volts to them and see if they glow but only for about 3 secs and don't burn your fingers!!
i bet 1 or 2 has failed which is common, if your test shows all is ok then check for voltage to the plugs see if the timer/relays are working ok? good luck..
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Nick
If you've got a multimeter; then set it to the appropriate DC range and connect it [red lead] between one glow-plug feed terminal and a good earth. [Battery negative is best - if reachable.]
Turn the ignition on and see if you're getting about 10-ish volts for several seconds. If so; then the relay and fuse are OK and you'll need to either check the glow-plugs with a laser thermometer, or pull them out and check them [terminal to casing] with the ohms [resistance] side of your meter. [0.5 ohms is typical. Dead ones will be open circuit.]
A simple 12v test light is a much quicker way; but if you haven't got one, then the meter will do.
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I'm not an expert on diesels myself but in your position I would go down the following route.
Does the glowplug light on the dash come on?
When you turn the ignition on there should be 12 volts across the glowplugs (they are connected in parallel so you can check any of them)
If you have the correct voltage then the timer/relay is working ok. Note that this voltage is only for a short time, they are not permanently live.
Somewhere on the injection pump there is a fuel cut off solenoid. this shoud be live for as long as the ignition is turned on. If it isn't then you are looking for a blown fuse/falty relay somewhere.
If it is live then the plunger may be sticking.
That is about the limit of my diesel non-start knowledge, I'm afraid but there are several more highly qualified contributors who will no doubt be along soon.
Personally I would only use easystart stuff if everything else checked out and it still wouldn't start.
If you need help with fuse numbers etc then I have the Haynes for the Xantia and my car handbook.
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but there are several more highly qualified contributors who will no doubt be along soon.
Or even before I've posted!
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Can't see how you could damage the engine with easy start; I've used it when the battery only has enough power to turn the engine over one or twice. If it goes with Easy Start you'll know it's definitely the glowplugs. :)
The XUD engine will start eventually even with no glowplugs.
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I'm told older diesels (york engines in Transits) became 'addicted' to Easy Start, by that I mean that unless Easy Start was used then you couldn't start the engine. It's said that the cause of this was down to the violent explosion when the stuff ignited hammered the big end & crank bearings (and so valves I suppose) leading to reduced compression and so reduced starting ability. As XUDs get older they depend on their glowplugs to start even when warm.
Steve.
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Xantia HDi. - Float on!
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