My good friend Alan was most grateful to all those who responded on towing weights and the choice of a used vehicle suitable for towing his 1.5 tonne vintage boat. However, he remsins confused and has asked me to post the following in case any more light emerges.
Thank you for the information on trailer weights. The Driving Manual (HMSO, from the Driving Standards Agency) is as near as you can get to Holy Writ, and it says "The lower the weight of the caravan or trailer the safer the combination will be. Ideally the actual weight of the loaded...trailer...should be no more than the empty weight of the towing vehicle (kerbside weight)... As a general guide, the laden weight of the ... trailer should never exceed the kerbside weight of the towing vehicle. Take care not to exceed the limits set out in the vehicle owner's handbook."
Which is all very well, but the kerbside weight of my VW camper, in its basic high roof configuration, is 1620 kg. Yet the maximum permissible trailer weight(with brakes)is 2000 kg, and the gross train weight is 4500 kg.
Enough of the theory. The camper tows the boat safely, stops it and, with care, recovers it on a steep slipway. The trailer weight (boat, trailer, anchors and coal) is an estimated one and a half tons in old money, or around 1600kg - so I'm well within the manufacturer's guidelines, but marginal within DSA guidelines.
All this would seem to rule out an MB300 and suggest a Range Rover. However, I would welcome enlightenment on the whole rather confused issue, which I'd sooner not debate with a traffic policeman one hot Saturday afternoon.
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Try a Nissan Patrol. Good for towing, valid at 3.5 tons, reliable and cheaper to buy. Watch the hard suspension though.
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Roger,
Didn't we establish that the legal situation was based on the makers advised towing weights.
Any other advisory limits and theorys are just that.
David
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Absolutely correct David. It is not a bad idea to have a copy of the handbook or know where the manufacturers plate is situated in case you are pulled.
I work on the theory if it looks right it usually is!
Andrew
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Then when you are all set up safely on the weight, you find that because most modern cars (including alas Volvos) have front wheel drive, when you need traction the weight's furthest away from the driving wheels. Try pulling a boat out of the water up a slipway with say a Mondeo.
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I'm grateful for several informed comments on towing weights. Yes. my VW camper would be better at pulling the steamboat up a slipway if it had rw (or better 4w) drive but I counter this by putting some large people in the passenger seat to improve traction and (of course) keeping nose weight of the trailer to within ounces of perfection.
I'd be further grateful for comments on the two/four wheel trailer implications (harder to turn and manoeuvre, easier to tow). And as to gross train weights, is it possible that the camper (being van based) expects to be able to tow a heavier trailer because it expects to be loaded more heavily than a passenger vehicle and so has more robust brakes to match?
Finally, anyone who uses a boat trailer which is used for launching (and so gets wet) must check brakes and bearings at least twice every season - especially if the trailer doesn't have a chance to dry out properly between launchings and recoveries, even in fresh water.
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Manufacturers' limits are based solely on the vehicle's ability to restart on a 1-in-something (or something% in new money) hill - nothing to do with safety.
For safety, max weight of trailer should NEVER exceed kerbweight of towing vehicle and ideally for inexperienced towers shouldn't exceed 85% of kerbweight.
Any LOWER limit set by the manufacturer should be adhered to, but most are ridiculously high.
Also bear in mind the gross train weight should never be exceeded - this is usually shown but not clearly identified on the VIN plate, and watch the noseweight on the towball. This is governed by (ie the lower of) either the vehicle manufacturer or the towbar plate (where subject to type approval).
HTH, it's not too complex really.
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Terry,
>For safety, max weight of trailer should NEVER exceed kerbweight of towing vehicle
Sorry but that is too simplistic and takes no account of the towing vehicle design plus the design of the trailer including the number of wheels/axles.
Remember a two ton trailer is not two tons hanging from the tow ball. In the case of a well designed twin axle trailer it is more akin to guiding an independent vehicle along.
David
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David
The original thread was looking for guidance on towing a boat on a trailer with an "ordinary" road vehicle. We're looking for safety, legality and consideration to other road users and simple rules are needed, not confusing technicalities.
The Driving Manual/Caravan Club/commonsense advice is good enough for me - especially when the two tons on the towball could be two tons pushing the car where it shouldn't be going - or trying to overtake it.
Terry
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Terry,
Now you're not thinking of towing a two ton unbraked trailer?
With such a trailer in good order the towball will never see two tons pushing it along. The brakes will be adjusted such the a few inches compression of the over-run system will allow the trailer brakes to take all of the two tons. If you want it is possible to set up the trailer brakes to hold the two tons and pull back on the car.
It is precisely to avoid confusion I say you should look in your car handbook and go by the makers limits.
David
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David
Unbraked 2-ton trailer? Certainly not!
We'll probably have to agree to differ. I can only say again makers' limits are only an indication of the car's re-staring ability on a gradient - or so I recall reading somewhere. Perhaps an expert (HJ?) could confirm or disillusion me. I've certainly had some vehicles that I wouldn't have dreamt of using to tug what the manufacturer claimed.
I'd like to know how many boat trailers have their brakes checked/adjusted regularly or at all. AND they get regularly dipped in salt (or muddy at best) water. IMHO they ain't going to be overly efficient.
Regards
Terry
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