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I recently tried to check on a squeeking sound coming from the rear brake of my MK3 1.1 petrol Fiesta. I tried dismantling the rear drum but can't see how. It was easy enough on my past cars but this seems to be difficult. The Haynes manual says that the four bolts connecting the whole assy must be removed. Is this possible?
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it's easy the four bolts at the back just undo them and keep the wheel bolted to the drum then you can pull it off easier, of course let the h/brake off!! good luck.
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oh so only the drum gets off by unbolting those bolts. I thought the whole assy would fall off making a mess of all those hydraulic pipes and all :)
Thanks mate!
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why not just undo the 22mm? nut on the stub axle and remove the drum in the normal way?(left hand thread on n/s dont forget)
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Because you need to reset the bearing torque and you should use a new nut;Undoing the four bolts(which is the Ford recommended way)takes the drum,bearing and stub axle off in one piece and they go back that way- no resetting of the bearing.
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I had the rear drum brakes checked about 2 years ago by a Ford mechanic. The drum was removed from the stub nut you guys are talking about. I now this because the stub covers are dented by a screwdriver and new red grease is smeered around the nut. The four bolts at the back plate are looking as they have never been touched from the day the car left the factory. That's why I was shy of touching them and asked around in this forum. Thanks guys by the way for your help. I guess I'll obey the Haynes manual and take your advice to remove the four bolts. It makes better sense and can't help wonder if the Ford mechanic was trying to take a simpler route when heremoved the stub nut?
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best of luck then,life is too short
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I've removed the hub on a Mark 3 Fiesta by undoing the four bolts. Much easier than the stub axle nut which has a high torque setting iirc....
madf
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If there isn't a wear lip on the drum, then I can see that removing the four small bolts at the back might be easier. On an older car, which is more likely to have a large wear lip, I wouldn't use the "new" method, I'd take the drum off in the traditional way, as Oldman suggested.
My fear would be that I would end up pulling the backplate away too, and then, how would I seperate the drum from the backplate?
Number_Cruncher
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absolutely correct number-cruncher
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I guess I'll first try the four bolt method tomorrow, if I find the drum hard to release then that would probably indicate a worn drum and resort to the stub nut method (although I've given this a try and bent my wrench trying! Most probably I was tightening instead of undoing it. I was working on the driver (right) side when looking from the rear).
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If you take the hub nut off (far easier and quicker imo) then you will need new hub nuts.
There are 2 types fitted depending on age of car. 1 sort are both rht; the others are handed i.e. 1 x rht and 1 x lht.
Easiest way to tell is to look at the nuts (you will need new ones anyway). Rht type are flange nuts, handed thread type appear like 4 thin nuts layered together with a spinning flange.
Hope that makes sense. Its easy to identify once you have seen the type of nut.
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as has been stated previously the correct way to remove the rear drums is by way of removing the 4 bolts in back plate the hub will stay in centre its so much quicker to do the hub nut was previously removed as on some services rear bearings are greased up to remove freeplay and check visually for signs of wear if you remove all 4 bolts i normally put a little loctite on rebuild.hope this helpz....
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as has been stated previously the correct way to remove the rear drums is by way of removing the 4 bolts in back plate the hub will stay in centre its so much quicker to do the hub nut was previously removed as on some services rear bearings are greased up to remove freeplay and check visually for signs of wear if you remove all 4 bolts i normally put a little loctite on rebuild.hope this helpz....
sorry dont understand your post?oh and you havent mentioned those pesky rivets what do you do about them to return the backplate to original?
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the rivets hold the backplate to the rear axle he's just checking rear brakes no need to touch them....
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so you undo the 4 bolts that hold the stub axle to the beam but you leave the rivets so how do you check the shoes then?
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your not starting this again are you oldman i'm giving advice and i think your taking the ....???the hub comes off with the rear drum as you know..exposing the rear shoes as you know..
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>>the hub comes off with the rear drum as you know..exposing the rear shoes as you know..
I didnt think that included backplate.if so how do you get to brake shoes,removing hub is usually by removing hub nut,this will release drum leaving shoes intact assuming no lip on drum which makes it harder to remove
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Steve
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when the drum is removed the shoes are exposed mate if there is a lip on the drum and you cant get it off wind handbrake cable right off that should do it
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>>when the drum is removed the shoes are exposed mate if there is a lip on the drum and you cant get it off wind handbrake cable right off that should do it
Doubt it,internal adjuster is not released by undoing the cable.and remains as was,should be a hole in backplate to insert screwdriver to release the adjuster.
and even if a lip on drum, they can still be removed without damage to brake shoes-been there done it many times!
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Steve
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very interesting so you then have to remove the exhaust heat shields to get to the adjuster for the handbrake and hope it will adjust off so you can remove the drum :-o certainly a different approach to servicing/adjusting/checking rear brakes on a mk3 fiesta,i wish i had the time in an average day to try this way
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Sorry oldman,posted at same time as you did,rather silly argument compared to simplicity of job!
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Steve
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just my opinion but if your going to all the trouble of undoing four bolts , you still have to remove dustcap to align "stub axle" up to axle , and the thought of spending 90pence on a new nut and setting torque is off putting then should one really be doing brakes at all?
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