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This very common at fast-fit places and some independent garages i find. I don't think this will do any harm though, as you say the manufacturer allows for a little over (and probably under) filling on the dip stick.
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take it back and get them to drain a bit, although it might not cause a problem there is always a possibility that it might . i would get them to put it right just in case...cheers ...keo
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Overfilling is to be avoided, damage to the catalytic converter being the most likely result, I believe. Do what keo suggests.
Coincidentally, I discovered only recently that, in the case of my MB, overfilling was regarded as serious enough for the manufacturer to issue a cluster of technical bulletins that actually redefined the capacity of the engine at 0.5 litre less than that stated in the handbook. This and many other such items can be found at:
www.alldata.com/
where you can subscribe for a modest fee.
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RE: "Overfilling is to be avoided, damage to the catalytic converter being the most likely result, I believe."
Does anybody know how overfilling the sump damages the catalytic converter?
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Chris - as I (a non-expert) understand it:
Too-high oil level causes frothing in the sump/crankcase. Gas recirculating mechanism takes oil foam into cylinders. Unburnt oil goes down exhaust and fouls the cat. And in a diesel engine, it can even run away out of control.
An expert will be along shortly ...
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I've been happily pouring oil down the sparkplug holes to carry out a compression test. Hopefully it hasn't done to much damage to the cat.
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Chris, it seems to me that if you add any noticeable amount of oil to the cylinders you will alter the compression ratio by occupying some of the gas volume? Are you trying to seal the piston rings which you assume may not be leaktight?
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I did two compression tests - one with a small amount of oil in the cylinder and one without. The idea was that if the compression increased dramatically with the oil then the bore was probably worn (ie, it was being sealed by the oil). Fortunately there wasn't much difference.
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Sorry, I forgot to mention that from this I could deduce that the low compression and oily spark-plug were probably due to worn valve-guides.
I used the word 'Fortunately' relatively in the previous message!
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Thanks for replies
The problem is that it is a bit awkward for me to get to the same branch that did the job. Today I did pop in to another branch, the guy looked at it and said that this amount is nothing to worry about. (They didn't have anyone to do the job at the time anyway)
I think It might be easier and quicker for me just to find a tube and syphon it out or just loosen sump plug and drain a little bit.
In any case, according to Haynes manual the min/max difference is about 1 litre and the sump takes 2.9 litres (oil filter takes another 0.4 litres), that makes it roughly 0.25-0.3 overfill.
Kostic
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Just whip off the oil filter and empty it. That'll get rid of 1/2 litre quickly and with a lot less mess.
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I had exactly the same problem at National about a year ago and it seemed to be overfilled substantially more than yours. I did what you mentioned placed a small container under the sump, unscrewed the nut and let the oil drain out to correct level on dipstick.
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Just whip off the oil filter and empty it. That'll get rid of 1/2 litre quickly and with a lot less mess.>>
Rather a lot more mess I would have thought...:-)
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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If it's only 2 or 3 mm above the max mark on the dipstick, I wouldn't worry about it.
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I wouldn't worry about it either.
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If you loosen the oil sump plug then the crush washer that they have likely used will not reseal properly when retightened.
I have been there before!
This amount is nothing to worry about.
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Quick fit centre replacing sump plug washers? Don't make me laugh, in my experience even some main dealers fail to do this and they should have them in stock.
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My local Kwik-Fit lads certainly do replace sump washers, twice a year on two cars. They'd be silly not to, as customers would be sure to return complaining about oil leaks. They carry stock in a comprehensive range of sizes.
On the other hand, I do my Capri myself. It has a plastic/nylon/something washer, which I've re-used several times and there has been no leak.
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Be cautious about releasing the sump plug, unless you have the kind that drains the oil without actually unscrewing the whole plug. In the rush of oil it can be very difficult to re-start it in the threads. Your hand gets slippery, oil is gushing up your sleeve, you panic and begin to cross-thread the plug, then you realise your container is much too small for the entire contents of the sump you have just drained onto the garage floor.
Been there, and cleaned the tyres afterwards!
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That all sounds very familiar cliff...
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It certainly does sound familiar Cliff...Have changed my own oil on every car for the last 40 years without any problem until the last but one.
My method is a larger than normal container and use an own made copper funnel to direct the oil into.
On the vectra the sump plug is a round one needing a torx socket.
It slipped out of my latex rubber glove used for the first(and last) time straight in to the tundish and blocked the hole off.
The funnel immediately spilled over and down my arm. Solution..stick my thumb over the sump hole while trying to retrieve the plug. Unfortunately it was stuck in the hole at the bottom of the funnel. And my thumb was beginning to burn with the hot oil.
Temporary solution was to use my middle finger until that got too hot. Oaths and curses echoing round the garage I finally retreived the plug and crawled out from underneath overalls soaked in engine oil and the floor covered.
lesson learned (beware of latex gloves and round sump plugs)
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Thanks everyone again
They did replace the washer as I brought one (as well as OE oil filter) :-)
The thing is, I was actually watching the whole process. The guy seemed to do everything right (he was a manager, BTW), what he did get wrong I think is not waiting long enough for the oil to settle in the sump when he was pouring it in. Obviously, the dipstick read low (he did check the dipstick instead of just filling with a predefined amount). In the end he got it a bit over.
I'll probably give them a ring today and try to pop in for them to sort it out. Although, it doesn't seem likely to be a problem. I checked air filter yesterday and there was no trail of oil, also I couldn't see any foaming on the dipstick.
As an aside, I think aftermarket warranties wouldn't like this kind of thing (not that I have one)
P.S. I don't have a garage or even a driveway, otherwise I would've probably done it all myself.
Kostic
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It can be a bit fiddly to get the level just right,more so on a strange car. These guys have not got the time to really go carefully and get the level just right so a little over fill is to be expected sometimes.
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Looks like an oil suction gun could be a viable investment :-)
It certainly takes most of the hassle off going back to the garage and trying to convince them that the level should be as per manufacturer instructions depsite them saying that there should be no problems with a bit of overfill.
It also helps with one's own mistakes.
P.S. Have seen one at MachineMart for £6.99
Kostic
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National tyres let you supply the oil filter? My local branch would not allow me to do this for whatever reason! Agree with others, a little overfill is not too serious, especially if your car burns oil!
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National tyres let you supply the oil filter? My local branch would not allow me to do this for whatever reason! Agree with others, a little overfill is not too serious, especially if your car burns oil!
Well, they refused first, saying that this could create problems with warranty on their work. I then said that I didn't understand how it could be affected by the proper OE oil filter from a dealer, at which point he agreed. I think they could be persuaded with OE filter.
P.S. He also said they do diesels, although it clearly says on their website that they don't !
P.S.P.S. My car doesn't burn a drop of oil
Kostic
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I've had problems with Kwik-Fit and supplying my own filter, clearly because of warranty issues. However, the local guys are now perfectly happy to do the job and add "customer's own filter" to the invoice.
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The reason most place insist on using their own supply parts is to cover themselves in the event anything goes wrong if they use any you supply.
Both my Bora's stop lights failed DURING its recent MOT test but, although I carry bulb spares, the National MOT tester said he regretfully had to use their own products even though he had no problems with the ones I would have provided.
It wasn't the additional profit being visualised, which would have only been about 50p to 60p all-in - the MOT itself was half-price.
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I have used a pastry baster(sp?),and a length of plastic tube down the dipstick hole, to suck out excess oil, such as the odd half pint.
Too much oil, as mentioned by others here, risks a higher than normal crank case pressure that can weaken oil seals. Since then I have taken care not to exceed the high mark.
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If you loosen the oil sump plug then the crush washer that they have likely used will not reseal properly when retightened. I have been there before!
On the Focus you are told to replace the sump plug EACH time.
The rubber washer is not available as a spare.
Glad I took this advice because, when I came to do the oil change I found the old one was damaged.
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All the washers I've had on sump drain plugs have been metal and never needed replacing. Of course if it looked worn then I'd replace it. Though I have tried to buy the washer for my Passat and been unable to get it alone - seems it comes as a bolt and washer kit.
Trying to drain a small amount from the drain plug sounds sounds like it has the potential for a lot of mess. If you're going to undo the plug, why not drain it all out then put it all (minus a little bit to correct the volume) back in the top?
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I doubt 2-3mm over the top will hurt..if it was cm I would drain some off..also by now it would have been burning oil. Nothing to worry about IMO
--
Steve
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