check engine to body main earth wire is properly connected and clean all metal contacts.
madf
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Go this from another discussion board
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The STOP light will come on with the High temperature warning light, Low brake fluid light, Low oil pressure light.
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Check connections to these sensors. As these may disable engine starting.
After that I would be tempted to disconnect the toad system, just in case its faulty and causing these symptoms.
Also connect a voltmeter grounding it to the engine lump, and measure voltage to +ve battery terminal. Compare this reading to direct battery voltage. Should help indicate if you have any poor earth connections.
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Or even better is to measure resistance from negative battery terminal to lump (with +ve battery terminal disconnected). Anything more than a few ohms would be suspect.
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just checked, alternator to body is fine so no earth issues there, the earth strap on the lump has a good clean connection, the earth to body is also a good clean connection, thats all the earths in the engine bay so its got me completly puzzled. I have also noticed that it goes from the handbrake and battery light when ignition off to stop, oil and battery light when ignition is on.
It seems the ignition on part is normal, except it doesnt do anything and pre heating light doesnt come on.
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Isn't the handbrake light shared by brake fluid? If so, is it telling you that hydraulic fluid is low (one of the STOP conditions)? Check connections to hydraulic fluid sensor and that fluid is filled to top.
I am pretty sure I get similar symptoms to this whenever I disconnect my battery. I would still go through the procedure of re-registering the plip key (always works for me).
I dont know much about TOAD alarm systems, but doubt it will have made the original pug immobiliser redundant. Does your toad system connect to the diesel stop solenoid? or is it just a simple alarm? If the latter, then the original pug immobiliser is rightly kicking in.
Do you still use your pug plip key to lock/unlock doors or does the TOAD do that for you aswell?
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I do not have a pug immobiliser or alarm, keypad or plip key. The car was a base model normally aspirated diesel with manual locks, windey windows etc. The Toad system was an immbiliser only with a touch pad fob. I have now removed the toad system as it only cuts all power through the ignition just to be certain this wasnt the problem. It isnt as it all has stayed the same. I have stripped the entire loom back to wires, checked all wire numbers etc and they are all fine and running to exactly the right places, all fuses are in tact, the brake fluid is full, the oil is full etc etc etc. Its doing my head in now, all earth points have been cleaned down and wire brushed to ensure good clean contacts. The only thing not checked now is the relays but as has been previously pointed out by a friend, a dodgy relay would not cause lights to come on the dash without the key even turned or in the ignition.
That is the most puzzling part of it. I am beginning to wonder if there is water behind the dash somewhere shorting something.
If you have any suggestions please send them my way else it looks like its going to be a hefty auto electricians bill.
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Oh, should of mentioned, the car does not have an ECU before anyone suggests the immobiliser has left the ECU dead. Its not a possibility in any way shape or form.
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Itchy that makes things alot clearer and simpler.
One last Q, does your car have an airbag?
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The car originally had an airbag but it was removed a long time ago as an aftermarket wheel was fitted. Never had any issues without it. I have just had the fusebox out and everything is bone dry inside. Had a feel about right up inside the dash and nothing even remotley moist in there so I think a wet contact can be ruled out. I have also removed the starter and alternator, wire brushed them and the lump where they may normally ground against each other, still no change.
Not sure if this may help or not, been playing with a multimeter taking various voltages etc, it would appear that there is a small voltage between 1 and 2 volts running through things with the ignition off, these are normally wires which would be dead until the ignition is on, ie wires to the starter relay, 4 wires 1=+12v, 1=ground, 1=to starter motor, 1=from ignition switch, the ignition switch wire is reading 1 - 2 volts constantly wherever the key is positioned. It sounds to me like something somewhere is feeding a voltage backwards through the earths hence fuel gauge going backwards. Theres definatley nothing in the bay could be doing this as I just redone the full loom, no bare wires, everything in correct place etc. Hope this helps to narrow things further and thanks for everything.
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Looking at the Haynes schematic, this voltage comes via the positive voltage regulator next to the battery.
Your battery has two feeds from the positive terminal. One goes to starter motor, generator and glow plugs (via glow plug heater control unit). The other goes via the positive voltage regulator to all other electrics via relays and fusebox.
If voltage from regulator unit is a few volts, then this is faulty. Try disconnecting output of voltage regulator when measuring to see if it makes a difference (ie eliminates possibility of shorting further down, causing a voltage drop).
You need to find the source of this 1-2 volts, and this will lead you to the faulty part. Also measuring resitances between runs of wire will help identify any burnt out parts of the loom wiring.
I assume the voltage regulator is contained in the big black plastic box next to the battery.
Hope it helps
solara
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Thanks solara, I found the cause, under the back seat was a very large puddle with a couple of connecters in it. Dried them out and the voltage stopped. I now have another problem. Hopefully you can diagnose this fairly easily.
As above solved the shortage and when I first put the key in, all lights as normal, glowplugs warmed as normal, turned the key to start. The starter motor turned for a brief second if that then it went dead. The battery is fully charged and now when the key is turned on first click battery light comes on which is pretty normal, second click the battery light goes out and handbrake light comes on, again normal. But the glowplug lights dont come on yet I can here the relay bit in the engine bay clicking and the are getting a voltage, turn to start position and its dead. Also the front and side indicators do not work and the drivers side headlight only comes on very dull (less than dipped beam) whatever setting its on, the passenger side works normal. Any clues to this would be greatly appreciated. I have checked the previous problem area and all is fine, the voltages are no longer there and all fuses are in tact. I can also hear the relays click in the car as the key is turned so I suspect they are in good order.
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Doh, problem solved, earth strap on the engine was loose. choolboy error I think!! Anyway its started and Oh what a wonderful noise. Nothing quite like a td starting for the first time in 2 months, No IC on it and open intakes. sounds well loud although the missus wasnt too please at all the smoke!!
Hahaha, anyway thanks for all your help.
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Ouch!!
Public Warning:
Trying to start a car with a poor earth can seriously fry your loom.
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haha, fun never stops does it, approx 5 minutes of running it I get a serious loud clicking from the cylinder head, rev it and it clatters, loses power then reduces to a ticking again as the revs come down. Spoke to the place that just done all the head work and they agree with me, sounds like its dropped a valve. They are gonna come take a look in the next few days, if it is the head then they will take it away and sort it out for free.
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Probably a stuck valve caused by a long lay-up.
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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