i\'m trying to unscrew track rod end to replace the steering wheel gaiter on my vw passat, but its well seized.
i\'ve spayed with wd40 over last 2days, managed to strip the nut moulding on the track rod, refiled to tightly fit a pair of twelve mm spanners encased in a stationary metal pole. 12 adustable spanner on track rod end (anticlockwise) only resulted in a broken 12mm spanner.
Should i wait for the oil to penetrated or use some heat or what?
Any ideas much appreciated.
Malc
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had a similar problem with the daughter's Punto (M Reg) which scrubbed a couple of tyres in her hands. Local independent (very good) had a try with spanners and stilsons, and said the next measure was heat (oxy-acetlene) which they frankly didn't want to do because of the danger of damaging the join.
I have some experience of this, and a few pairs of stilsons, but after use of them and enough heat (you can apply it rapidly with oxy-acetlyne, and keep the track rod joint itself cool with water) decided I was getting to the point where I thought there was danger of effecting the track rod joint, or even the rack.
I decided to scrap the track rod ends, and bought a new pair. Using the new ones as a pattern I ground into the joint just clear of the end of the threaded rod of the track rod, and put Plus Gas in there, so it could really soak into the thread from a pool of lubricant. When this didn't work I carefully ground along the body of the joint until I could just see the thread appearing. Use of the oxy-acetylene flame along this surface caused it to fail, without damaging the threaded bar.
Even then, after another soaking in plus gas, it was a pig to unscrew after 8-9 years.
Frankly, unless you have the gear, it is probably worth taking it to someone with it, and get tell them they can scrap the joint
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thank you all esp. crinkly dave
it was the track rod end that was seized.
i briefly had a try with a blowtorch after another overnight soak in wd40 but only managed to brake another two 12mm spanners.
then i tried daves suggestion of grinding track rod end off and it worked a treat. i cut off the end joint and then along opposite sides of the remainder of the track rod end until i could just make out the thread. then wd 40 and a whack removed the naughty thing.
Bought another track rod end but alas it doesn\'t come with a locking nut (which i had to grind off as well).
Is it essential to have a locking nut?
Regards
M
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>>Is it essential to have a locking nut?
Absolutely essential:
although the bits you removed were corroded solid, new parts will tend to unscrew.
At the very least you'll scrub the tyres off.
If it undoes completely, you're on your own:
the insurers will wash their hands of you,
the police will have a field day with "construction and use".
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Use a bit of oxy-acet heat on the locknut. If you haven't got that then use a 6" angle grinder to cut a channel in it (not quite all the way through) and then split it with a chisel. Use minimum possible force.
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Is it just the locknut seized, or the threaded rod inside the joint?
A good way to free a nut, if all else fails, is to remove the whole thing and place with the nut resting sideways on an anvil or a heavy hammer. The hit the opposite flat very hard. Don't do too much hitting on the car or you risk damaging the rack bushes.
If it is this tight doesn't it suggest the tracking hasn't been adjusted in years?
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